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HAND-BOOK 



AMERICAN TRAVELLERS IN EUROPE. 



HAND-BOOK 



AMERICAN TRAVELLERS IN EUROPE, 



COLLA.TED FROM THE BEST AUTHORITIES, 



DESIGNED AS AN INTRODUCTION TO THE EUROPEAN 
GUIDE-BOOKS. 



PART FIRST. 

COMPRISING PRELIMINARY INFORMATION AND OUTLINE 

OF A TOUR IN FRANCE AND ITALY, VIA 

LONDON. 



REV. ROSWELL PARK, DD„ 

PRESIDENT OP RACINE COLLEGE, WISCONSIN. 



NEW YORK: 
PUBLISHED BY CLARK, AUSTIN & SMITH, 

3 PARK ROW AND 3 ANN STREET. 
1854. 



Jol 



CONTENTS. 



FIRST DIVISION.— GENERAL REMARKS. 



1. Introduction 

2. Baggage 

3. Funds 

4. Expenses 

5. Passports . 

6. Custom House 

7. The Voyage 

8. Guide -Books 

9. Languages 

10. Couriers 

11. Conveyance 

12. Health 

13. Purchases . 

14. Correspondence 

15. Credentials 
Ifi. Reugion 



12 
16 
22 
28 
34 
37 
42 
48 
53 
56 
60 
63 
66 
68 
70 



CONTEN1S. 



SECOND DIVISION— OUTLINE TOUR. 



Liverpool 
London 
Routes to Paris 

Southampton 

Havre 

Rouen 
Paris 
Route to Italy 

Lyons 

Avignon 

NlSMES 

Marseilles 
Genoa 
Leghorn 
Naples 
Rome . 
Florence . 
Bologna 
Ferrara . 
Venice 
Verona , 
Milan . 

COMO 



. 74 
75 

. 81 

83 

. 83 

85 

. 90 

104 
. 107 

113 
. 116 

118 
. 122 

124 
. 126 

139 
. 165 

170 
. 173 

176 
. 189 

193 
. 199 



PREFACE. 



The author of this little work, having enjoyed the 
privilege of making a rapid tour in Europe, during the 
summer of 1852, was thus enabled to collect valuable 
materials and information for the task which lie has now 
attempted. In the autumn preceding his tour, he made 
inquiries in the best bookstores of Boston and New- 
York for the requisite Guide-Books, but they were not 
to be found. Accordingly, he ordered and obtained 
from London, at the cost of more than thirty dollars, a 
set of ten volumes, including the series of Black and 
Murray, covering the ground over which he proposed to 
travel. It then occurred to him very forcibly, that so 
much of these ten volumes as would be necessary, or 
highly important, to the American traveller, during a 
rapid tour in Europe, might be condensed into a single 
work of moderate size ; and that, if such a work were 



T'KEFACE. 



tolerably well compiled, it would be of great benefit to 
many of bis countrymen abroad, and might even be of 
service to some who would wish to travel, in imagina- 
tion, at home. Acting under this impression, and feeling 
that he possessed some peculiar facilities for such an un- 
dertaking, the author used all the means in his power 
to prepare himself for this task, before and during his 
sojourn abroad, and received much information from 
kind friends, who gave it for this special purpose. His 
engagements not permitting the preparation of a com- 
plete work at present, he has nevertheless thought it 
advisable to elaborate, without delay, that portion which 
is now offered to the public, — in order that those who 
would desire such a companion may be able to avail 
themselves of it during the ensuing season. 

In conclusion, the author would respectfully solicit 
any information which w r ould give greater accuracy and 
completeness to his volume ; as such information is con- 
stantly changing, and maybe constantly improved. He 
wishes and proposes to make this as perfect a work as 
possible for the purpose, and regards the present book 
as but the outline of a plan to be gradually completed 
hereafter. 



A 



FIRST DIVISION. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

§ 1. — Introduction. 

TOUE in Europe cannot fail to be of interest and ben- 
efit to an intelligent American, if, while engaged in 
it, his health be spared, and his time be properly employed. 
To see the curiosities of nature and of art, — to observe 
the manners and customs, — and to examine the laws and 
institutions of the old world, should certainly expand the 
mind and improve the understanding of a citizen of the 
new. At the same time, there are so many temptations 
to idleness and vice, or, at least, to the formation of inju- 
rious habits, while away from the gentle and restraining 
influences of home, that the writer cannot advise parents 
or guardians to expose their sons or wards to such danger, 
unless it be under the most efficient and competent con- 
trol. None but those whose principles are firmly estab- 
lished, whose education, both literary and scientific, is far 
advanced, and who have a strong curiosity to learn what 
is best worth learning ; none else can reap the full benefit 
of such a tour as it is the object of this work to delineate. 
2 



10 GENERAL REMARKS. 

And those who have already studied most carefully the 
Geography, and History, and Literature of Europe, will 
derive the greatest pleasure and profit from visiting in 
reality those scenes through which they must already 
have wandered in imagination. 

Various motives may induce our countrymen to cross 
the Atlantic, and visit Europe's classic shores. The trav- 
eller on business will of course visit those places where 
his business lies, although he may, by a judicious arrange- 
ment, see much besides. The traveller for health will 
seek those localities which are deemed most suitable for 
the invalid, and especially the sunny climes of the south : 
but the writer would not advise any one whose constitu- 
tion is much impaired, and whose prospects of recovery 
are slender, to quit his own quiet home, where he can 
have rest, and kind friends to soothe him, for any new 
abode, however lauded for its sanitary virtues. It is a 
sad thing to droop and die among strangers, and especially 
in a foreign land. The student who visits Europe, will 
find abundant resources in Paris and the other great 
capitals, or in the English or German Universities. The 
artist will be attracted to Rome, or the other chief cities 
of Italy. The sportsman will probably find his pastime 
among the mountains and lakes of Scotland, Wales, or 
Switzerland ; while the courtier will linger in the saloons 
of the lordly and luxurious, wherever they may be ac- 
cessible. But the philosophic traveller, who is a scholar, 
a patriot, and a Christian, will not be satisfied with narrow 
views or distorted images. He will wish to see both 
nature and art, both men and things, in their true aspects, 



INTRODUCTION. . 11 

however various ; and to see the best specimens of each 
class of objects in their appropriate localities. For such 
travellers this work is more especially designed. 

The arrangement, or plan, of a tour in Europe, which 
is an important consideration, should depend upon the 
time which can be allotted to it ', and this, again, may- 
depend upon the expense. To see the curiosities of Cen- 
tral Europe thoroughly, a year is barely sufficient, without 
entering upon any extensive course of study : and, if it be 
practicable to include two summers in the tour, one should 
be spent in Ireland, Scotland, and the north of England ; 
and the other should be chiefly devoted to Switzerland 
and the Tyrol. Thus, Dublin might be visited in July ; 
Glasgow and Edinburgh in August ; the north of England 
chiefly in September ; London in October ; Paris in No- 
vember ; the south of France in December ; Eorae in 
January'; Naples in February ; Florence in March ; Venice 
in April; Vienna in May; Berlin in June; Milan in July, 
passing southward by the way of St. Gothard ; Mont Blanc 
and the Eigi in August, by way of the Simplon pass ; and 
the Khine in September, or during the time of vintage ; 
allowing October for Holland and Belgium ; and November 
for the south of England ; so as to return home before 
winter. For those who travel thus leisurely, the larger 
guide books will be found very desirable, if not indispen- 
sable companions. But most travellers will feel obliged 
to limit their tour to one season, of six or eight months, 
preferring the summer for comfort ; although, in order to 
see both Scotland and Switzerland in that period, it will 
be necessary to hurry rapidly from one of these countries 



12 GENERAL REMARKS. 

to the other, while the season is warm, somewhat to the 
neglect of the numerous intervening places. To meet the 
exigencies of such travellers is the object of the itinerary 
which forms the principal and concluding part of this 
little volume. 

The remaining preliminary information which the 
traveller should possess, may be arranged under the heads 
of baggage, funds, expenses, passports, custom-houses, 
the voyage, guide-books, languages, couriers, conveyance, 
health, purchases, correspondence, credentials, and reli- 
gion ; of which we proceed separately to treat. 



§2.- 

The best rule which can be given to travellers in regard 
to baggage, or luggage, is, to take as little as will suffice, 
and have it carefully marked with their names or initials. 
In England, any reasonable amount is allowed to pass 
without any extra charge on the railways ; but on the 
railroads of the continent all baggage not carried in the 

* The English very generally use the term luggage, instead of 
baggage, to denote the effects which a traveller carries with him ; 
although the latter term is used by Bogue, of London, in his 
Guide Book for Travellers in Belgium and on the Ehine. The 
English also use the term portmanteau instead of trunk, to desig- 
nate this ordinary accompaniment of travellers. In French, the 
term oagage is used as with us, including la malle, or the trunk, 
le sac de nuit, or the carpet-hag, and any other small effects. The 
Italians have the corresponding terms oagaglio, oaule, and bisaccia 
da viaggio; and the Germans use the terms Gepack, Koffer, and 
NacMsack. The term for a hat-box is, in French, nn carton a 
chapeau; in Italian, una capelliera ; and in German, ein llutfut- 
teral. 



BAGGAGE. 13 

passenger's hand is at a separate charge, the amount of 
which depends upon the weight ; at least when it exceeds 
a certain very narrow limit. In the French malles jiostes, 
corresponding to our mail stages, the baggage goes free 
if it do not exceed twenty-five kilogrammes, or about 
fifty-five pounds in weight : all beyond that limit must be 
paid for extra. Moreover, no trunk or portmanteau is ad- 
mitted into the malle poste if it exceed twenty-seven inches 
in length, fifteen in breadth, or thirteen in height, how- 
ever light it may be ; this regulation being strictly en- 
forced by the government. Accordingly, although the 
traveller may rarely have occasion to travel by this con- 
veyance, still it is recommended to adopt a trunk of this 
size, or not much exceeding it ; which, with a carpet-bag, 
an overcoat, an umbrella, and perhaps a hat-box, should 
suffice for a single gentleman, unless he prefer to travel 
luxuriously, and therefore more expensively. 

" The man of many packages," says Bogue, " becomes 
a slave to them. On steamboats, on railways, in seeking 
inns," and on leaving them, " his luggage becomes a source 
of anxiety, annoyance, and loss." This is literally true, 
unless he hire a courier to travel with him, whose place 
it then becomes to take this charge. 

An overcoat will be necessary, even in midsummer, 
among the mountains of Switzerland, or the hills of Scot- 
land ; and in the spring or autumn it will be useful even 
in Italy ; and in the summer season an wnbrella will be 
even more useful to shelter him from the heat of an 
Italian sun, than from the frequent showers of rain in the 
north of Great Britain or in Ireland. The traveller 



14 GENERAL REMARKS. 

should not forget to take a supply of warm, flannels, both for 
the sea- voyage, and for mountain excursions, even in the 
hottest weather; and a water-proof dress or overcoat 
may chance to be serviceable in crossing the ocean. This 
last, however, and a hat-box, may be dispensed with, 
especially by procuring a Gibus hat, which may be com- 
pressed like a cap ; although it is pleasant to wear a cap 
while in transit, and a hat while visiting cities. A tall 
gentleman may find himself unable to wear an ordinary 
hat on the outside of a French diligence with a canvas 
covering above, or perchance in a Italian vettura. In 
regard to ordinary clothing, it is unnecessary to take 
a large supply ; as it may be purchased, when wanted, 
and at least as cheaply as at home, in any of the large 
cities of Europe ; and nowhere, perhaps, cheaper or 
better than in Paris. Those who are of a cool tem- 
perament will find that a moderate supply of thin cloth- 
ing, with a good stock of linen, will suffice even for an 
Italian summer ; while others, of warmer blood, may 
suffer severely from the heat. 

A few suggestions may here be offered, which the 
writer finds in none of the guide-books, concerning the 
arrangement and packing of a gentleman's trunk ; a matter 
of some consequence to the traveller's comfort, and not 
always well understood. A travelling trunk, or port- 
manteau, should be made of stout leather, and, to pro- 
tect it from soiling and abuse it should be covered with a 
canvas or oil-cloth sack. There is one objection to a trunk 
opening precisely midway of its height ; which is, that, 
in order to open it, it must be set on the floor, and 



BAGGAGE. 15 

moved out from the side of the room ; whereas in many 
European hotels a trunk is ordinarily set on an elevated 
stand, and close to the wall. On the other hand there is 
this advantage, that when such a trunk is opened, the 
tray may be taken out and set on the upper part, with- 
out seeking for it another resting-place. The writer 
would recommend that the upper portion of the trunk 
should comprise not much more than one-fourth part of 
its height, and should be appropriated to linen and under- 
garments. The lower part should contain two trays, the 
upper part of which should barely be deep enough to 
contain a writing-case,* a cake of soap in a tin box, a 
package of letters, and similar small articles ; and the 
second tray should merely be deep enough to contain a suit 
of clothing, which may rest on a network of webbing ; 
while the lowest part of the trunk may be devoted to the 
heaviest articles, and those least frequently used. Each 
part of the trunk should always be packed closely, using 
.the smaller articles last, to fill any vacant spaces ; and 
a carpet bag will serve to hold such articles, not liable to 
injury by pressure, as the portmanteau will not contain. 
A carpet bag twenty inches wide, and eighteen or twenty 
deep, will be found of convenient size ; and may suffice 
without a trunk, by a proper interchange of articles, for 
any short excursion. For ladies' baggage, the writer 

* Travellers will find it desirable to purchase their trunk or 
portmanteau, dressing-case and writing-case of leather, being 
lighter, and more durable than any other material. These 
articles may be found at several shops in Broadway and Nassau- 
street, New-York, or elsewhere. 



16 GENERAL REMARKS. 

will not attempt to prescribe, but would be disposed to 
allow them more spacious accommodations. 

§ 3. Funds. 

The best mode of realizing the requisite funds for travel- 
ling in Europe, is by means of drafts, in some form, on 
European bankers. American paper money would of 
course be refused, even the bills of our best banks ; and 
American gold would only pass at a heavy discount, aside 
from the inconvenience of its weight, and the risk of 
losing it. It is important, therefore, to take out a mode- 
rate sum in English gold, if bound to England, or French 
gold if bound directly to France ; sufficient at least to carry 
the traveller to London or Paris. This may be purchased of 
the bankers or brokers in our own cities. A draft on any 
respectable banker in England would be available, or 
negotiable ; although, for travelling on the continent, it 
would be advisable to use such draft in purchasing new 
drafts, or letters of credit, on the bankers of the chief 
cities to be visited. The best drafts to be taken to England 
are doubtless those on Messrs. Baring Brothers & Co., who 
will in return give drafts or letters of credit on any of the 
chief continental cities. A special advantage of their 
drafts, is, that Messrs. Baring Brothers & Co., are so 
kind as to act as agents of correspondence for those who 
are favored with such introduction to them. Travellers 
proceeding directly to Paris, or to Bremen, may doubtless 
purchase drafts, or bills of exchange, directly, on those 



FUNDS. 1 7 

or other cities. But perhaps the very best mode of pro- 
viding funds for a European tour, is by means of the 
Circular Letters of Credit of Messrs. Duncan, Sherman 
& Co., bankers of New- York City. These letters, 
addressed to the Union Banking Company in London, and 
to leading bankers in the principal cities of the continent, 
are accompanied by circular drafts or orders for £50, 
£20, or £10, sterling each, to the requisite amount, on 
presenting which to any of the bankers addressed, show- 
ing but still retaining the circular letter of credit, the 
amount called for will be paid, in the current coin of the 
place, subject to the usual discount. 

The writer purchased these orders of Messrs. Duncan, 
Sherman & Co., at the rate of $4.93^ per pound sterling ; 
this price including the premium of exchange. These 
orders were paid at the principal office of the Union 
Banking Co., in London (near the Bank of England), 
without any discount : so that the sovereign, a gold coin 
worth precisely £1 sterling, cost him $4.93^, with the 
advantage that had it been lost on the passage, Messrs. 
Duncan, Sherman & Co. would have refunded the 
money ; otherwise it might have been wiser to purchase 
sovereigns in New-York at $4.84 each, and carry them 
to England. The difference being about two per cent, 
may be regarded as a premium of insurance against loss 
or robbery : and the writer was informed by Mr. Sherman, 
that their drafts or orders are current with all the prin- 
cipal bankers of England. At the rate of $4.93 ^ per 
pound sterling, the English shilling cost the writer 24f 
cents ; and the English penny, 2~g cents. At the same 
2* 



18 GENERAL REMARKS. 

rate, the cost of the crown was $1.23£; and that of the 
half-crown, 61 § cents. By this standard his expenses in 
England were to be estimated in American money. 

In Paris, the writer received of Messrs. Greene & Co. 
1008 T °/ 7 francs, in French silver, for a circular draft of 
£40 sterling ; but French gold was at a premium of 1£ 
per 1000. At this rate, the Napoleon, or 20 franc gold 
piece, cost $3.91£, while its actual value, having reference 
to the quantity of gold, is only $3.81. The cost of the 
Jive franc piece, was 97 T 7 /o ; that of the one franc piece, 
19t 5 o 5 o 8 o> or nearly 19| cents ; and that of the sous, a cop- 
per coin, was ^ of a cent. At Marseilles, the writer 
received only 1002 francs for a circular draft of £40 
sterling ; making a difference of more than f of 1 per 
cent, in favor of Paris, and thus much increasing the 
cost of the coins above named. Accordingly, he would 
recommend that travellers should draw in Paris not only 
a sufficient sum to last them to Marseilles ; but that they 
should take a large surplus, including more than enough 
to pay their passage to Rome or Naples, if bound that 
way ; and the premium and risk on gold may be lessened 
by taking notes of the Bank of France to pay the passage- 
money, but not to use in Italy, where they are not cur- 
rent. French gold is more widely circulated on the 
continent than any other kind of money whatever. It is 
well, therefore, to keep a moderate amount of it in re- 
serve, during the whole continental tour. 

In Naples, the writer received of Messrs. Turner & 
Co., 142 piastres, or Neapolitan dollars, and 78 grani or 
grains, for £30 sterling; the grain being -^ of the 



FUNDS. 19 

piastre. Hence the piastre, or Neapolitan dollar, cost 
$1.03^- of American money; and the carlin, being T \ of 
the piastre, cost 8| cents, very nearly ; while the grano, 
or grain, being ^ of this, costs T \% of a cent. The 
Spanish dollar, there called a colomiato, from the columns 
stamped upon it, was passing for 12| carlins, and there- 
fore cost $1.0T T 4 o 6 oi though its value in silver was only 
$1, as with us. But the risk and trouble of carrying 
silver from New-York to Naples, would probably be 
worth all of 7^ per cent. ; and the loss must be sustained 
in one shape or the other. Messrs. Iggulden & Co., in 
Naples, allowed 574 grains to the pound sterling, but 
charged only \ per cent, commission ; whereas Messrs. 
Turner & Co. allowed 575 grains to the pound, but 
charged 1 per cent, commission ; so that the terms of 
Messrs. Iggulden & Co. were rather more favorable of 
the two. 

In Rome, the writer received from the banker Tor- 
Ionia, 196 scudi, or Roman dollars, for £40 sterling; these 
dollars being nominally the same as the Spanish dollar ; 
but they are not current out of the Papal States, while 
the Spanish dollar is. Hence, the cost of the Roman 
scudo or dollar was$1.00§; making the paul, which is 
one-tenth of a scudo, worth very nearly 10 cents; and 
the oaioccho, or hundreth part of a scudo, worth very 
nearly 1 cent. But Spanish dollars were at a premium 
of 3 per cent. ; and hence cost nearly $1.03| each, if pur- 
chased in Rome. 

In Florence, the writer received of Maquay & Pack- 
enham 2,250 Tuscan pauls for £50 sterling ; or 45 Tuscan 



20 GENERAL REMARKS. 

pauls per pound. Hence the cost of the Tuscan paul was 
10 t 9 /q cents; and the Francesconi or Tuscan dollar, of 10 
pauls, cost $1.09 1 of American money. The same bankers 
charged 36} Tuscan pauls for a Napoleon; the cost of 
which in Florence was therefore $3.97^. The writer 
found no Tuscan copper coins in use, the Eoman baioccho 
circulating instead. At Bologna, the Papal money was 
again current, though the Austrian zwanzigers here 
began to make their appearance. In Bologna 23 \ zwan- 
zigers were allowed for a Napoleon ; but in Padua only 
22 ; French gold being here at the greatest discount or 
depreciation. 

In Venice, the writer received of Messrs. Schielin, 
Freres (the Brothers Schielin), 293 zwanzigers, or Austrian 
lire, for £10 sterling. This made the cost of the zwan- 
ziger, or Austrian lira, 16/^ cents. But calling after- 
wards on Messrs. Blumenthal & Co., they allowed 298 
zwanzigers for £10 sterling, on the circular orders of 
Messrs. Duncan, Sherman & Co., at which rate the cost 
of the zwanziger was 16 T 5 B 5 o cents. No Austrian gold 
coin was in circulation, but zwanzigers were current, as 
in Austria, all the way to Switzerland. 

The coinage of Switzerland, like that of Sardinia and 
Belgium, is now assimilated to that of France ; the Swiss 
franc and five-franc piece being of the same value as the 
French. The rate allowed to the writer in Geneva, Berne, 
and Basle, was intermediate between those of Paris and 
Marseilles ; and at Basle a premium of one-half per cent, 
was charged for Napoleons. 

In the Grand Duchy of Baden, as in Bavaria and Wur- 



FUNDS. 21 

temburg, the current silver coin is the gulden, or Bavarian 
florin, which is subdivided into 60 kreuzers, and is reck- 
oned to be worth 2 francs and 15 centimes, or 2 francs 
and 3 sous. The Napoleon should pass for 9 guldens and 
20 or 30 kreuzers, according to the premium which it 
may command ; but taking the lower of these rates, and 
comparing it with the value of Napoleons at Basle, the 
cost of a gulden, or Bavarian florin, would be 42 j cents 
very nearly ; and the hreuzer would be a little more than 
two-thirds of a cent. The five-franc piece passes in Baden 
for 2 guldens and 20 kreuzers ; or the franc for 28 kreu- 
zers : and the Austrian zwanziger passes here for 24 
kreuzers ; or 2i zwanzigers to a gulden. The vereins 
thaler, or union dollar of Bavaria, being equal to 3 guldens 
and 30 kreuzers, would cost, at the above rate, $1.47 of 
American money. 

In Prussia, and of course in the Prussian states on the 
Rhine, the current coin is the Prussian thaler, or dollar, 
which is subdivided into 30 silver-groschen : and a Napo- 
leon passes for 5 Prussian thalers and 12 silver-groschen ; 
or the 5-franc piece for 1 thaler and 10 silver-groschen ; 
the franc being reckoned at 8 silver-groschen. Hence, a 
Prussian thaler costs nearly 73 cents ; and a silver-gros- 
chen costs nearly 2| cents of American money. The gul- 
den of Bavaria passes for 17 silver-groschen; and the 
piece of 2 guldens, for 1 thaler and 4 silver-groschen: the 
silver-groschen being equal to 3^ kreuzers, very nearly. 

In Holland, the current coin is the guilder, or Dutch 
florin, the true value of which is the same as that of the 
gulden of Bavaria. It is subdivided into 20 stivers, or 



22 GENERAL REMARKS. 

100 cents : the stiver being equal to 5 Dutch cents. The 
Napoleon passes for 9 guilders and 7 to 9 stivers ; a five- 
franc piece passing for 2 guilders and 6 stivers, or 30 
cents; and the franc being reckoned at 9^ stivers, or 
9 stivers and 1 cent. Hence the cost of the guilder is 
about 42 cents, and that of the stiver about 2 cents of 
American money ; while the Dutch cent is less than half 
a cent of our own. 

In Belgium, the currency is the same as in France, 
the Belgian franc and five-franc piece being of equal value 
with the French. In Brussels, the writer received of 
Messrs. Brugmaun, Fils, at the rate of 1007 francs, nearly, 
for £40 sterling; this being the net receipt, as in the 
preceding instances, after the commission had been de- 
ducted. Being about to proceed to England, and wishing 
to purchase sovereigns, the price charged for them was 
25 r 3 o 5 ff francs ; so that the cost of English gold, thus cir- 
cuitously obtained, was $4.96} cents per sovereign, or 
pound sterling. This price was paid only for a sufficient 
sum to reach London, where the original draft, or letters 
of credit, would be directly available. Thus much the 
writer has thought it proper and sufficient to say, in re- 
gard to funds and currency, in this place. 

§ 4. — Expenses. 

The expense of travelling in Europe will, of course, de- 
pend upon the style and manner of travelling. A pedes- 
trian, for example, who has time in abundance, with but 
little money, may pursue his way at less than half the 



EXPENSES. 23 

daily expense which he would incur in travelling rapidly 
by costly conveyances. The charge at the first-class hotels 
is often double, or more than double that at respectable 
houses of less pretension and inferior accommodations. 
The contingent expenses of travelling may be increased 
or diminished very much at the will of the traveller ; al- 
though many of them are unavoidable, and many others 
are expedient, having reference to economy of time as 
well as of money, and a due regard to the great objects 
of travelling. A gentleman, extravagantly inclined, may 
expend more money for wine and tobacco alone, than 
would enable an economist to travel respectably, and see 
the greatest curiosities of Europe, with the same expen- 
diture of time. It should be added, that in carriage-hire, 
admission fees, and the procuring of guides, there is a 
considerable saving when a party of two, three, or four 
gentlemen travel together, and divide these expenses 
among them. 

To give more definite information : if the traveller is 
willing to dispense with a trunk and carry his own carpet 
bag ; to put up at obscure hotels, and accept of meaner 
fare, or to take retired lodgings, and feed at the restau- 
rants ; to walk about the cities, except an occasional ride 
in the omnibuses ; stinting himself in fees of admission as 
well as in regard to guides and servants, and only travel- 
ling from place to place in the cheapest conveyances, he 
may itinerate in Europe at an expense of not more than 
two or three dollars per day, and, in some parts, even 
less. It is no disgrace to travel in this manner, for those 
who find it necessary ; although they would probably 



24 GENERAL REMARKS. 

receive less attention, and enjoy fewer privileges in con- 
sequence. Nevertheless, this is not the manner in which 
a gentleman, or one possessing self-respect as well as 
curiosity, would wish to travel : and, accordingly, those 
who have the means will prefer to expend from jive to 
eight dollars per day in England, and from four to six 
dollars per day on the Continent, according as they travel 
at leisure or more rapidly : the latter being, of course, 
more expensive. A gentleman travelling on the continent 
with a courier, would wish to expend $10 or $12 per day, 
besides any purchases that he might make ; but, without 
a courier, and especially travelling with a party of gen- 
tlemen, $200 per month would be a very liberal allowance 
for the whole time spent in Europe, not including the 
passage thither and back. This would make the expense 
of a six months' tour in Europe, including the passage 
both ways in a steamer, about $1,500; which sum would 
also suffice for clothing, and some small purchases beside, 
if the traveller were economical. For ladies, the expense 
would probably be greater, unless they also should choose 
to study and practise economy. 

As it will probably be satisfactory to enter into some 
details on this subject, the following specimens are given 
of the expenses of foreign travelling. The passage from 
New-York to Liverpool, or Havre, by steamer, taking 
the first-class cabin, is $120 ; whereas, by the best packet 
ships, it is not more than $75. The return passage of the 
first-class is $148, or £30 sterling, by steamer, and $100 by 
the best packet sailing ships. It is customary, besides, 
to present small gratuities to the servants, usually one 



EXPENSES. 25 

or two dollars each to the state-room waiter and table 
waiter, and fifty cents, or more, to the boot-black, who, 
in England, is popularly called " boots." The passage, by 
the express train, from Liverpool to London, is £2 5s., 
or $11.10 ; by the accommodation train, first-class cars, 
£1 17s., or $9.12; and by the second-class cars, £1 7s., 
or $6.66 ; the usual rate on the English railroads being 
about six cents per mile in the first-class cars, and four 
cents per mile in the second-class cars of the accommo- 
dation trains ; while the express trains, being more rapid, 
are higher. It should be added, that travelling in Great 
Britain is more expensive, in general, than on the Conti- 
nent, by some 25 or 30 per cent. 

Most English hotels have no ordinary, or table d'h6te, 
but each traveller calls for what he pleases, eats at a 
separate table, and pays accordingly. Each servant who 
waits on the traveller expects a fee at least daily ; and it 
is preferable that these fees should be included in the 
landlord's bill, unless " boots " be an exception, who 
generally acts as porter, and expects a fee for bringing 
down the baggage on its departing, if not one for carrying 
it up on its arrival. The following may be stated as the 
customary charges in the hotels of Great Britain ; the 
lower rate being for those in the smaller towns, and the 
latter for the first-class hotels in the largest cities. Break- 
fast, 2s. to 4s. ; dinner, 2s. Qd. to 5s. ; tea, Is. 6d. to 3s. ; 
swpjper, 2s. to 4s. ; ted (that is to say, apartment), Is. 6<7. 
to 4s., and servants, Is. Gd. to 3s. 6d. ; all wines or 
liquors being extra charges. From this it will be seen, 
that, taking three meals in the day, including tea, but not 



26 GENERAL REMARKS. 

supper, and no wines or liquors, the expense at ordinary 
hotels will be about 9s., or $2.25 per day, and may 
easily amount to $3 ; while, at the most expensive hotels 
in the largest cities, such as Fenton's, Morley's, or the 
" Golden Cross," in London, it will not be less than £1 
sterling, or $5, per day, and may easily amount to $6 or 
$8. At the same time, comfortable private lodgings in 
London may probably be obtained, with the necessary 
meals, for $12 or $14 per week. This, of course, does 
not include the items of washing, shaving, or hair-dress- 
ing, and the like ; and an extra charge is sometimes made 
for lights, as well as for fuel in cold weather. To these 
necessary expenses of living are to be added those of 
sight-seeing, including carriage hire, or omnibus fare, ad- 
mission fees, catalogues, and the like, which may be much 
reduced, or they may easily swell the expense of living in 
London to $8 or $10 per day. 

In Paris, the charge for transient travellers, at the 
first-class hotels is about 3 francs for breakfast ; 5 francs 
for dinner ; 2 francs for coffee, usually taken instead of 
tea ; 3 or 4 francs for bed, or apartment, and 1* francs for 
servants; besides extras for fruit or wines, fuel, lights, 
soap, washing, and the like. Accordingly, the necessary 
expenses of living at a superior hotel in Paris are some- 
thing more than $3 per day, and may be easily increased ; 
but comfortable accommodations may be obtained, for half 
this sum, in more retired quarters. The expenses of sight- 
seeing in Paris are also less than in London, as the admis- 
sion to many public places is gratuitous ; so that $5 per 
day in Paris will go quite as far as $7 in London. In 



EXPENSES. 



27 



the smaller cities of France the expenses are still less than 
in Paris ; and travelling on the French railroads is de- 
cidedly cheaper than on the English for the same class of 
cars. The same remark is true of the railroads, and of 
travelling generally on the Continent. But the writer 
paid 179 francs, or nearly $35, for a first-class passage by 
steamer from Marseilles to Naples, including provisions 
on board for nearly four days. 

In Naples, the following were the expenses of the 
writer's party, three in number, for a day's excursion 
westward, to the ruins of Cuma and Baia?, and the neigh- 
boring curiosities. Carriage-hire, 3 piastres, or 360 grains; 
lunch, 130 grains; guide, 125 grains; coachman, extra, 60 
grains ; Grotto del Cane, 30 grains ; Sybil's Cave carriers, 
100 grains; torches, 40 grains ; Nero's Bath, 100 grains ; 
Solfatara, 25 grains ; smaller fees, collectively, 40 grains ; 
total, 1010 grains, or 8 piastres and 50 grains: i. e., 8 piastres 
and 5 carlins ; costing $8.68 in all, or $2.89 for each 
person; while respectable, but not superior, boarding was 
to be had at $1.50 or $2 per day. The excursion to 
Mount Vesuvius was more expensive ; that to Pompeii 
less so. The expense of a vettura, or private carriage, 
from Capua to Koine, for the same party, was $33, or $11 
for each person, including dinners for three days on the way. 
In Pvome, the charges at the Hotel de l'Europe, Piazza 
di Spagna, were about $3 per day for each person, with 
superior fare and accommodations ; and there, as in Na- 
ples, or in Venice, the pay of a guide was about $1 per 
day; carriage hire within the city of Pvome being at 2 
pauls, or about 20 cents per hour. Admission fees to 



28 GENERAL REMARKS. 

palaces, and gratuities in churches, which in Naples were 
usually 2 carlins for the former, and one for the latter, 
were in Borne 2 pauls and 1 paul respectively, and in 
Venice 1 zwanziger or lira Austriacha each. These may 
serve as specimens of the expense of travelling in Europe, 
and are deemed sufficient by way of preliminary infor- 
mation. 

§ 5. — Passports. 

TnE American traveller may visit Great Britain, and 
travel all over it, without a passport ; but if he wishes to 
travel any where on the continent of Europe, a passport 
is indispensable. The object of this document, is to es- 
tablish the character of its owner, as a citizen of the 
United States, and to secure for him the respect and pro- 
tection which he may justly claim. The form of it is as 
follows, neatly engraved. 

"TnE United States of America, to all to wnon) 

THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, GREETING : \ 

I, the undersigned, Secretary of State of the United 
States of America, hereby request all whom it may con- 
cern, to permit safely and freely to pass [A. B.] a Citizen 
of the United States, and in case of need to give him all 
lawful Aid and Protection. 

,-^a^s Given under my hand and the impression 

of the Seal of the Department of State at the 

l. s. J- City of Washington, the day of ■ , 

, in the year of the Indepen- 
dence of the United States. 



In the margin is a description of the owner, under the 
heads of age, stature, forehead, eyes, nose, mouth, chin, 



EXPENSES. 29 

hair, complexion, and face, with the signature of the 
bearer, to be added by himself. 

In regard to obtaining a passport, the following in- 
structions have been printed as a circular, and are issued 
from the Department of State, at Washington, under date 
of April, 1850. 

" Citizens of the United States visiting foreign coun- 
tries, are liable to serious inconvenience, if unprovided 
with authentic proof of their national character. The 
best security against this is a passport from the Depart- 
ment of State, certifying the bearer to be a citizen of the 
United States ; which passports are issued gratis, upon 
application supported by proof of citizenship. This proof 
need be transmitted but once. On all subsequent occa- 
sions, a simple reference to it, and to the period when it 
was presented, will be sufficient. 

" When the applicant is a native citizen of the United 
States, he must transmit an affidavit of this fact, stating 
his age and place of birth, signed by him, and sworn to 
by himself, and one other citizen of the United States 
named therein, to whom he is personally known, and to 
the best of whose knowledge and belief the declaration 
made by him is true. This affidavit must be attested by 
a Notary Public, under his signature and seal of office. 
When there is no Notary in the place, the affidavit may be 
made before a Justice of the Peace, or other officer authori- 
zed to administer oaths. If the applicant be a naturalized 
citizen, his certificate of naturalization must be transmitted 
for inspection. It will be returned with the passport. _ 

"The application should be accompanied with a descrip- 
tion of the person, stating the following particulars, viz. : 
Age : years. Stature : feet, inches, (Eng- 
lish measure). Forehead: . Eyes: . Nose: 

. Mouth: . Chin: . Hair: . Com- 
plexion : . Face : . When the applicant is to be 

accompanied by his wife, children, or servants, or by any 
females under his protection, it will be sufficient to state 
the name and ages of such persons, and their relationship 
to the applicant. 



30 GENERAL REMARKS. 

" Persons who leave the country, expecting to obtain 
passports, whilst abroad, from the Diplomatic or Consular 
agents of the United States, are liable to disappointment ; 
inasmuch as it is the duty of those agents to observe the 
utmost caution in granting documents in the nature of a 
certificate of citizenship, to those persons only who are 
certainly known to be entitled to them ; and it is some- 
times difficult, if not impracticable, to procure proof of 
this fact in a foreign country. 

" Certificates of citizenship or passports issuing from the 
State Authorities, or from the Judicial or the Municipal 
Functionaries of our country, are not recognized by the 
officers of foreign governments ; and if the Diplomatic 
and Consular agents of the United States are called upon 
to certify to the authenticity of such document, they can- 
not do this, for want of that official information in regard 
to those authorities and functionaries, and to their respect- 
ive signatures and seals of office, which is indispensably 
necessary in the case of every such certificate." 

Accordingly, the following is a proper form to be filled 
up, and executed, and forwarded to the Department o 
State, by any native citizen of the United States, in order 
to obtain a passport. 



State of 



County 



?! 



[A. B.], of the town of •, in the county of , 

and State of , being duly sworn, declares that he is 

a native citizen of the United States ; that he is 

years of age ; that he was born in the town of , in 

the county of , and State of ; and refers to 

, of the town of , in the county of 

and state of , to whom he is personally 



known. 



Subscribed and sworn be- 
fore me, this , day of 

, 1853. 



Notary Public (or Justice of the Peace.) 



EXPENSES. 31 

State or — 



County. 



[C. D.], of the town of , in the county of 



and State of , being duly sworn, declares that he is 

acquainted with [A. B.], above named, and that to the 
best of his knowledge and belief, the declaration above 
made by the said [A. B.], is true. 

Subscribed and sworn } 

before me this > 

day of ,1853. ) 



Notary Public, 

(or Justice of the Peace.) 

The following is a correct description of the person of 
the above named [A. B.]. (See the items already men- 
tioned.) Attest, 



Notary Public, 

(or Justice, &c.) 

If the traveller proceed to the Continent by the way 
of England, he must have his passport countersigned in 
London, at the office of the American Minister, by the 
American Secretary of Legation ; for which no charge is 
made : and if proceeding to France, the passport must 
also be vised by the French Consul, that is to say, it must 
receive his signature, as having seen it and thus authen- 
ticated it as genuine, which signature is called a visa, and 
for which a charge is made of about $1.50, including the 
folding up of the passport in a little manuscript book, like 
a pocket-book, not only for convenience of carriage, but 
also to receive the subsequent visas, which, in the course 
of a tour, will till quite a volume.* 

* The writer's passport was here folded over the edges of 



32 GENERAL REMARKS. 

In Paris it is again necessary to procure the signature 
of the American Secretary of Legation, which is gratu- 
itous ; and after this, that of the Prefect of Police : and, 
if proceeding to Italy .by way of Genoa or Turin, the visa 
of the Sardinian Legation should also be procured, and 
perhaps that of the Tuscan ; but of this information may 
be obtained at the American embassy. The writer pro- 
cured both these visas, at a charge of seven francs ; and 
that of the police was three francs ; making the expense 
of passports for each person, in Paris, about $2. It is only 
necessary for the traveller to visit in person the office of 
the American embassy ; as the visas of the police and of 
foreign embassies may be procured by means of a commis- 
sionaire, or agent, such as will be found at all the princi- 
pal hotels. 

Proceeding to Italy by way of Marseilles, the charges 
in that city were, for the visa of the American Consul, 
ten francs, but gratuitous to clergymen, through the po- 
liteness of Mr. Hodge ; for the Eoman visa, three and a 
half francs, and for the Neapolitan, six ; that of the police 
being gratis, and the commissioner charging three francs 
for his services ; so that the charge on each passport at 
Marseilles, for Italy, was twenty-two and a half francs, or 
nearly $4£, besides the expense in Paris. At Naples, the 
charges on each passport were, for the American Consul, 
$2 ; the police, sixty cents ; the Papal Nuncio, sixty 

the first MS. leaf, whereby it was exposed to wear, and was 
afterwards actually worn through at the foldings ; whereas it 
should have been folded smaller than the leaf, and then the 
edges would have been protected. This may be done by giving 
proper directions, at Lee's, 440 Strand, London. 



EXPENSES. 33 

cents ; the permit of sojourn, sixty cents ; the office of 
Foreign Affairs, $1 ; and the commissioner, sixty cents ; 
making a total of $5.40 : and there were additional 
charges on the way, by land, from Naples to Borne. In 
Rome, the charges were, for the American Consul, $2 ; 
the police, sixty cents ; the Tuscan legation, fifty cents ; 
and the commissioner or agent, forty cents ; making a 
total of $3.50 for each passport. At Florence, the charge 
for visas was about $1.50 for each passport ; and these, 
being the heaviest items, may suffice to give some idea of 
the expense of passports, especially to those who travel 
in Italy. When passing from place to place on the Con- 
tinent, the passport should be carried about the person, 
and in a safe pocket, remembering that the loss of it may 
subject the traveller to very great inconvenience. 

The writer was favored, besides the ordinary passport, 
with a courier's or cabinet passport, as a bearer of dis- 
patches; and had been told that it would be of great ad- 
vantage, especially in exempting his baggage from search 
by the custom-house officers. But such was not the 
result in his case ; and he found himself burthened with 
a bag of dispatches, containing letters, papers, &c, from 
the Department of State, with no immunity or remune- 
ration in return, except the privilege of going ashore with 
the mails at Liverpool and leaving his baggage behind, to 
be searched when sent for ; a privilege of which he did 
not choose to avail himself. Accordingly, except on the 
score of patriotism, or on other conditions than those 
above named, he cannot advise any fellow-countryman to 
seek or accept the office of Bearer of Dispatches. Fear- 
3 



34 GENERAL REMARKS. 

ing that the fault might he his own, the writer asked the 
British custom-house officer at Liverpool, whether im- 
munities were not allowed to those bearing dispatches, 
and was distinctly answered, None, except that above 
named. 

§ 6. Custom- Houses. 

Among the annoyances to which the traveller in Europe 
is subjected, is that of custom-house examinations of 
baggage at every frontier. It may have one good effect, 
however, to make him appreciate more highly the ad- 
vantages which accrue to our own country from its being 
not a group of nations, or isolated governments, nor 
merely a confederation ; but a combination of United 
States. Supposing that every traveller who goes from New- 
York to Boston or Philadelphia, were obliged to stop at 
some place on the way, or at least on arriving, and after 
waiting his turn, were to have his trunk opened and 
ransacked by a custom-house officer ; this would be but 
a specimen of what he must continually meet with, and 
submit to, while travelling in Europe. 

The writer first experienced this annoyance on arriv- 
ing at Liverpool; when all the passengers were detained 
on board the steamer from seven o'clock in the evening 
until near midnight, before the examination of trunks, 
carpet-bags, band-boxes, hat-boxes, and other boxes, was 
completed. All tobacco found in the same was charged 
a very high duty, intended to be prohibitory; so that 
some of the passengers gave up the article rather than 
pay the sum demanded. There was a duty also on 



CUSTOM-HOI 81 35 

daguerreotypes, and similar works of art. American 
books were charged a duty of about 11 cents per lb. 
weight ; and American reprints of English books were 
confiscated without reprieve, if they were found recorded 
in the lists of copyright works. Thus, copies of even 
original American books, if they have been copyrighted 
in England, are seized and destroyed by the custom-house 
officers : a harsh but necessary mode of protection. In 
short the principle adopted appeared to be, that whatever 
the passenger might have, in the nature of merchandise, 
should pay duty ; Avhile those things alone which were 
the necessary appendages of travelling might go free. 

The following is a list of British duties on some of the 
chief articles which a traveller would be likely to have 
in possession. Precious stones not set, specimens of 
natural history, bronze works of art, casts of statues, 
models in cork wood, manuscripts, maps and charts, 
bullion, silver or gold coins, and medals, antique vases, 
living animals, plants, trees, and seeds, are admitted duty 
free. Agates or cornelians when set, beads, brocade, 
brass and bronze furniture, carriages, cashmere shawls, 
china, clocks and watches, cotton, linen and woollen 
articles of dress, furniture, furs and skins made up, 
japanned ware, jewelry, lace, mosaic work, musical 
instruments, perfumery, scagliola tables, and toys, pay 
a duty of ten per cent, ad valorem. Gold or silver plate 
must pay, in addition to this, a stamp duty of Is. fid. per 
ounce. Alabaster sculpture is charged 3s. per cwt.; mod- 
ern continental books, £5 per cwt. ; cameos, 5 per cent, 
ad valorem ; copper coins, 10s. per cwt. ; embroidery, 20 



36 GENERAL REMARKS. 

per cent, ad valorem ; glass when cut, 4<Z. per lb. ; marble, 
manufactured, 3s. per cwt. ; paintings on glass, Is. Qd. 
per square foot ; pictures, Is. per square foot ; prints and 
drawings, Id. each, when single ; silk dresses, £1 10s. 
each ; and wine, 5s. Qd. per gallon. (See further particu- 
lars in Coghlan's Guide for Travellers through Italy.) 

In France, as in England, the examination is thorough, 
but not exigeant, and due courtesy is generally shown to 
the passengers. The following is a list of duties charged 
in France on some of the more common articles im- 
ported. Foreign books, 10 francs per 100 kilogrammes, 
(about 200 lbs) ; French books, 100 fr. 100 kilogrammes; 
engravings, 300 fr. per 100 Ml.; furniture, 15 per cent, ad 
valorem ; pictures and drawings, 1 per cent, ad valorem ; 
toys, 80 francs per 100 kil.; telescopes, 30 per cent. ; carpets, 
silks, porcelain, plate, tea, and wine subject to a heavy 
duty ; and boots and shoes, calicoes, embroidery, clocks, 
cotton and woollen manufactures, gloves, skins, hard- 
ware, plated ware, and tea from England, prohibited. 
(See farther in Galignani's New Guide to Paris.) 

In Italy, and especially in the dominions of Naples 
and Austria, the custom-house examination is more rigid, 
especially in regard to books and papers. An instance 
came to the writer's knowledge, where the private letters 
of a lady were opened and by the doganiere, or custom- 
house officer. It was at the Austrian custom-house on 
the river Po. Still there is nothing to be gained by 
resentment or display of temper ; and it is a general rule 
of travelling, that civil treatment is most likely to insure 
civil treatment in return. We quote here the following 



THE VOYAGE. 37 

paragraph from Murray, in regard to the custom-houses 
of Italy. " When travellers arrive by a diligence, or 
other public conveyance, it is in most cases usual to have 
all the luggage opened, trunk by trunk, and package by 
package ; and if any cause for suspicion arises, carefully 
searched. But in the case of a party travelling either 
veturino or posting, the conduct of the doganieri is 
usually different. They do make a distinction; and if 
the party gives them an assurance that there is no pro- 
hibited article or book in the luggage, and a fee, then no 
examination takes place : you proffer the keys, and a few 
of the trunks are opened and closed again. Should any 
object appear out of the common way, it is possible that 
the doganiere may ask an explanation, but merely out of 
curiosity. With respect, however, to administering fees 
to custom-house officers, it is difficult to lay down any 
positive rules. The Austrian officers are persons of higher 
character, and to fee them is more difficult, and less 
necessary ; for as they do not regularly look forward to 
being bribed, they are less disposed to be vexatious." 
The writer would add that pictures bought in Rome have 
to pay a moderate duty in Leghorn if carried thither ; 
but if shipped in the harbor, from the steamer, directly 
for the United States, without being carried ashore, 
this duty is avoided. 



§ 7. The Voyage. 

We may next speak of the different means of crossing 
the wide ocean, which separates the old world from the 



38 GENERAL REMARKS. 

new. These means consist of steamers and sailing ves- 
sels; the latter being either casual vessels, or regular 
packets of some line, hence sometimes called liners. 
Casual vessels may be found sailing from various ports 
in the United States, and for various ports in Europe ; 
on board which a passage may be had at very reason- 
able rates, but at the risk of a long and tedious voyage. 
The following are tho chief regular lines of packets, sail- 
ing from the prinoipal ports of our country to the 
principal ports of Europe : 

Boston to Liverpool: 
Train # Co.'s lino; Ollice, 87 Lewis' Wharf; eight ships; sail twice a 
month. 

Nkw-Youk to Livkkpool : 

The several packet-ship lines are arranged to succeed each other as 
follows, — 

Grinnell, Minium «.y Oo.^s line; 78 South-street; eight ships; sail 
6th and '21st. of each month. 

Charles II. Marshall $• OoJ's "Black Ball" line; ollice, No. 3S Bur- 
ling Slip; sail 1st hi id KHli of each month. 

Spofford, Tilcston # Co.'s "Dramatic" line; office, 48 South-street; 
four ships; sail 2Gth of each month. 

Kerviit iV Cb.'a "Red Star 1 ' lino; office, 7(5 South-street; four ships; 
sail 11th of each month. 

*** The above (together) thus provide a packet on tho 1st, 6th, 

11th, Uitii, 21st, and 26th of each month. 
There are also oilier ships, which sail at Irregular timos. 

Nkw-Yokk to London : 

OrisivoldQ- Co:s "X" lino; office, 70 South-street ; eight ships; sail 
every alternate Thursday. 

ffrinntU, Minium <$• Co:a "Swallow Tail" line; office, 78 South- 
street; eight ships; sail every alternate Thursday. 

Thus these two lines provide a ship every Thursday throughout 
the year. 

New-Yokk. to Havkk: 

M. Livingston's " Union " line; office, 68 Broadway ; six ships. 
Boyd iy EMnokeri'a "Second " line; office, 161 Pearl-streel : four ships. 



THR VOYAGE. 30 

Win. Whitlock"a "Union" lino; office, 46 South-street; six ships. 
Theso three lines provido six ships a month throughout the year. 

Philadelphia to Liverpool : 

Geo. M* Henry 4* CoSa line; office, 37 Walnut-street; four ships; sail 
15th of each month ; fare, $80. 

The faro by the above packets, in tho best cabin, from New- York to 
Liverpool, or London, is $75 ; New- York to Havre, $100 ; second cabin, 
$20 to $37.50. 

There are four principal lines of steamers now plying 
between the United States and Europe; viz. : 

The Collins line of IT. S. mail steamers runs once a 
fortnight between New-York and Liverpool, and consists 
at present of the Atlantic, tho Pacific, the Arctic, and 
the Baltic, which are among the finest steamships in the 
world. The days of sailing are on alternate Saturdays 
from New- York, and on Wednesdays from Liverpool, as 
follows, for the season : 



1853; May 14. 


1853: Aug. 6. 


1853: Oct. 29. 


" 28. 


" 20. 


" Nov. 12. 


" June 11. 


" Sept 8. 


" 26. 


" 25. 


" 17. 


" Dec. 10. 


« July 0. 


" Oct. 1. 


" 24. 


" 23. 


" 15. 





The office of this line is at No. 5G Wall-street, New- 
York ; and Brown, Shipley & Co., Liverpool. 

The Ouna/rd line of British mail steamers runs weekly 
from Liverpool, alternately to New- York and Boston; 
leaving each of these cities alternately, once a fortnight 
for Liverpool in return. It consists of the America, Asia, 
Africa, Arabia, Europa, Canada, and Niagara, which are 
also well built vessels, and possess good accommodations. 
The offices of this line are at No. 4 Bowling Green, New- 
York ; S. S. Lowis. Xo. I Commercial Wharf, Boston; 



40 GENERAL REMARKS. 

and D. & C. Maclver, Liverpool. The days of sailing are 
on Wednesdays from New-York or Boston, and on Satur- 
days from Liverpool. Fare from New-York, $120 ; from 
Boston, $100; from Liverpool, £31 10*. 

The Havre line of U. S. mail-steamers, consisting of 
the Humboldt and Franklin, plies once a month be- 
tween New- York and Havre, touching at Southampton 
to land the mails and any passengers for England, inter- 
mediately, on each trip. The offices are at No. 53 Broad- 
way, New-York ; Martineau, Crosky & Co., Southampton ; 
and Win. Iselin, at Havre. The times of sailing, for 1853, 
are as follows : 

FEOM NEW-YORK. 

April 9. July . 2. September 24. 

May 7. " . 30. October . 22. 

June 4. August 27. November 19. 

FROM HAVRE AND SOUTHAMPTON. 

May 11. August . 3. October . 26. 

June 8. " . 31. November 23. 

July 6. September 28. December 23. 

The Bremen line of U. S. mail steamers, consisting of 
the Hermann and Washington, plies likewise once a month 
between New-York and Bremen, alternating with the 
Havre line, and likewise touching at Southampton, so as 
to form a semi-monthly line between that port and New- 
York. The offices of this line are at Moller, Sands & Co., 
No. 26 South-street, New- York; Martineau, Crosky &Co., 
Southampton ; and C. A. Heincken & Co., Bremen ; and 
the times of sailing, for the present season, are appointed 
as follows : 





THE VOYAGE. 






FROM NEW-YORK. 


FROM BREMEN. 


Washington 


April 23 . 


March 15. 


Hermann . 


May 21 


April 22. 


"Washington 


June 18 


May 20. 


Hermann . 


July 16 . 


June 17. 


Washington 


August 13 


July 15. 


Hermann . 


September 10 


August 12. 


Washington 


October 8 


September 9. 


Hermann . 


November 5 


October 7. 


Washington 


December 3 


November 4. 


Hermann . 


81 


December 2. 


Washington 




30. 



41 



Two steamships (propellers) sail from Philadelphia to 
Glasgow once a month ; viz. : 

City of Manchester; and 
City of Glasgow. 

These are also good vessels, and make fair passages. 
Fares, $90, $65, and $55. 

Those who have decided to cross the ocean at a given 
date, may obtain a choice of berths, in the steamers or 
liners, by engaging the same some time beforehand, 
although, in order to secure them, it may be necessary 
to make payment in advance. This may be done either 
personally, or by the agency of a friend. The charge for 
a first class passage in the Collins steamers, from New- 
York to Liverpool, is $120 ; for a second class passage, 
$70 ; and the difference in price is not greater than the 
difference of accommodation. This sum includes all 
necessary expenses, except perhaps servants' fees, already 
alluded to under the head of expenses ; but all wines and 
liquors are at an extra charge. In going out to Europe, 
the preferable berths are those on the starboard or right 
side of the ship, as being the more sunny side ; and those 
3* 



42 GENERAL REMARKS. 

nearly midway of the ship's length, as having less motion. 
There being two berths in each state-room, the upper is 
perhaps the preferable one, and it is pleasant to have a 
friend or acquaintance as a companion. It is needless to 
take many books, for an ocean voyage is not the most favor- 
able time to read or study ; but a few good ones are de- 
sirable to occupy such time as they may serve to beguile. 
In regard to the comfort of an ocean voyage, the 
writer experienced an unpleasant nervous sensation con- 
tinually, when awake, from the jarring of the steamer, 
caused by the working of the machinery. But a far 
greater annoyance, experienced by many, though not by 
all, who cross the ocean, is sea-sickness ; from which 
the writer suffered much, during a stormy passage out, 
and still more in crossing from Southampton to Havre, 
the short, choppy seas of the English channel being often 
overpowering even to those who have resisted the in- 
fluence of a stormy ocean. In returning home, the writer 
escaped sea-sickness almost entirely, by observing three 
rules : to dress very warmly ; to live very abstemiously ; 
and to retire to his berth, and rest supinely there, when 
threatened with this unwelcome visitor. He is fully per- 
suaded that the chilliness of the vessel, during an early 
spring passage, has a decided effect in deranging the 
stomach ; as well as the motion caused by the waves. 

§8. Guide-Books. 

Immediately on landing upon the shores of Europe, the 
traveller will begin to feel the need of guide-books ; and 



GUIDE-BOOKS. 43 

besides the present little work, it will be of service to 
him to have a part of them at least before leaving the 
United States, in order that he may refer to them during 
the voyage. It will be the aim, therefore, of this sec- 
tion to point out the best works of this class, and also 
to suggest such other collateral sources of information 
as may be useful to the traveller, so far as the writer is 
informed. The books required may be procured from 
London, through any of the principal booksellers in our 
largest cities. 

The best guide-book for England (while Murray's 
remains uncompleted) is undoubtedly Blade's Picturesque 
Tourist of England and Wales. This work is elaborate^ 
compiled, and contains a series of railway maps, illustrating 
the principal lines of communication, with a good general 
map of England and Wales. But in regard to the more 
important cities, it is not so full as the traveller would 
wish ; giving no maps of them ; and London, of course, 
is entirely omitted, as requiring a volume by itself. 
Blacks Picturesque Guide to the English Lakes covers a 
part of the same ground more fully ; and in most of the 
chief towns some local work may be found which will 
supply farther details, if the traveller desires them. In 
regard to the great metropolis, Murray' 's Iland-Booh of 
Modern London is the best manual for the transient trav- 
eller ; and his larger work is the best for library reference : 
Gruchley's Picture of London is also useful, and con- 
tains a good map of the city. Another work, entitled 
" London as it is To-day ," deserves also to be mentioned, 
and a pleasant companion will be fowl in Saunders's 



44 GENERAL REMARKS. 

Great Metropolis, published in New-York; and Reynolds' 
New Map of London is particularly useful, as containing 
1,000 references to the principal streets and places in the 
city, by which they may easily be found, although the public 
buildings are not so distinctly marked as in the map by 
Cruchley; Reynolds' 1 New Map of the Environs of London 
is a proper companion to his map of the city ; and both 
together cost but 2s. Qd. Black's Travelling Maps of 
England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland, may here be men- 
tioned as perhaps the best for those travellers who desire 
maps on a larger scale. 

For Scotland in general, BlacFs Picturesque Tourist 
of Scotland is doubtless the best work, and surpasses the 
English guide-book of the same publishers in containing 
more numerous illustrations, and a more satisfactory ac- 
count of the chief cities, Edinburgh and Glasgow, with 
plans of the same. But besides this, the traveller will find 
many local works, giving more minute details of various 
portions of Scotland ; among which we would name, 
Anderson's Guide to the Highlands and Islands of Scot- 
land, including Orkney and Zetland (or Shetland) ; Wil- 
son's Voyage round the coasts of Scotland and the Isles ; 
Staffa and Iona described and illustrated, by Mackie & 
Son ; Sy lean's Pictorial Hand-Books, to Ooila, or the 
Land of Burns ; to the Clyde and its vicinity ; and to the 
Caledonian Canal; Black's Guide through Edinburgh, 
with a description of the pleasure towns in the environs ; 
and BlacFs Guide through Glasgoic, with pleasure excur- 
sions in the neighborhood. 

For Ireland, the writer can onlv name The Irish 



GUIDE-BOOKS. 45 

Tourist's Illustrated Hand- Boole, published in London 
and Dublin. It is rather a sketchy work, and is at fault- 
in not containing plans of Dublin, Cork, and Belfast. 

The traveller in Great Britain will find Bradshaw's 
General Railway and Steam Navigation Guide, published 
monthly, price sixpence, a very convenient little manual, 
giving time-tables of all the trains on all the railroads of 
Great Britain, and the time of sailing of all steamers to 
and from any ports of the British Islands. A companion 
to this, alike useful for travellers on the Continent, is 
Bradshaic^s Continental Railway, Steam Navigation, and 
Conveyance Guide, containing a map of the railroads 
from France to Germany inclusive, a map of the Rhine, 
and several plans of cities. 

The writer met with but one recent and general guide- 
book for all Europe, and that not sufficiently full on each 
particular place and route, though otherwise well com- 
piled. It was the " Guide Classique du Voyageur en 
Europe" by Reichard, Geographic Engineer, who is the 
author of an extensive and valuable series of guide-books, 
in French, on almost every country of Europe. They are 
published in Paris, and extensively circulated on the Con- 
tinent. The works, however, which are most used by the 
English travellers on the continent, are the Hand-Books of 
Murray, so named from their publisher, John Murray, of 
London, and conspicuous by their red covers, comprising 
Murray's Hand-Books of France; Northern Germany, 
including Belgium and Holland; Southern Germany; 
Switzerland, including Savoy and Piedmont; Northern 
Italy ; and Central Italy, which does not include Naples 



46 GENERAL REMARKS. 

and the kingdom of the Two Sicilies, these being reserved 
for another volume. These works are generally very full 
and minute, especially in regard to architectural details 
and works of art ; and hence, for travellers who are quite 
at leisure to wade through these minutiae, they are doubt- 
less very valuable ; as they do in fact contain a large 
amount of useful information. But the writer thinks 
them quite too liberal in their praises of every minor 
object along the way, so that it is hard to tell from them 
what is really best worth seeing ; while they are quite 
too diffuse for travellers who have but little time to spare, 
and therefore wish for the necessary information in the 
most condensed form. For such travellers, the guide- 
books of Ooghlan, covering in two volumes what Murray 
covers in six, will be a cheap and tolerably good substi- 
tute for Murray's more voluminous works. These two 
volumes are Coghlarts Guide- Boole for Continental Trav- 
ellers, covering Northern France, Belgium, Holland, Switz- 
erland, and Germany ; and Ooghlaii's Hand-Boole for 
Italy, including Naples as well as the more northern parts. 
This latter work, though generally good, fails sadly in 
maps and plans; yet scarcely more so than Murray does, 
who, in a volume on Central Italy, treating principally of 
Rome, gives no plan of Rome, nor any engravings what- 
ever relating to it. 

As Murray's Hand-Book of France does not include 
Paris, the writer would name Galignani's New Paris 
Guide, as ably supplying this deficiency ; and the same is 
supplied in the French language by the Guide Universel 
de VEtr anger dans Paris, by Mont6mont. A recent pub- 



GUIDE-BOOKS. 47 

lication of the Messrs. Harper, of New-York, entitled 
Parisian Sights and French Principles, seen through 
American Spectacles, and a similar work by Sir Francis 
Head, published by Putnam, entitled U A Faggot of French 
Sticks, or Paris in 1851," will serve to give still more 
minute and graphic information concerning life in the gay 
capital of France. The writer was so fortunate as to 
obtain a very rare and valuable work entitled " Versailles 
Ancien et Moderne, par Alexandre de Laborde," giving a 
full description of that wonderful palace and its works of 
art, illustrated by numerous fine wood-cut engravings. 
A small work entitled Rome seen in Eight Days, was found 
to be a convenient manual in visiting that ancient city, 
though not sufficiently full ; and the writer would name 
a work by Prof. W. M. Gillespie, entitled Rome, as seen 
by a New-Yorker, in 1843 and 1844; and a work by Eev. 
Dr. Kip, entitled Christmas Holidays in Rome, as supply- 
ing more graphic information on some points than will be 
found in Murray's Central Italy, or the other professed 
guide-books. The deficiency of Murray in regard to 
Naples, may be supplied by a small work in French, en- 
titled Naples, Les Monuments et Les Curiosites, by the 
chevalier D'Aloe, giving also a description of Pompeii, 
and other neighboring places. The writer will conclude 
this topic by mentioning Keller's Map of Switzerland, and 
a new series of continental guide-books, in English, by 
Bogue, apparently well executed, and very portable, of 
which two volumes at least, Rogue's Belgium and the 
Rhine, and Bogue' s Sicitzerland, have already been pub- 
lished. There are numerous books of travels, which may 



48 GENERAL REMARKS. 

serve in some degree as guide-books for succeeding trav- 
ellers; but it is thought unnecessary to name them here. 

§ 9. Languages. 

The American traveller, not only in England, but through- 
out Great Britain, will feel himself comparatively at 
home, finding the language of the country to be his 
own; a common inheritance which we share with our 
British ancestors. It is true, that among the lower classes 
he will find some peculiarities of dialect ; and in Scotland, 
Ireland, and "Wales, he will meet with those who still 
speak the original languages of these countries, the Gaelic, 
the Irish, and the Welsh tongues. Even among the Eng- 
lish, he will find an occasional word which will remind 
him that he is in a foreign, though a kindred land ; as 
when he hears them speak of a portmanteau, instead of a 
trunk ; luggage, instead of baggage ; the railway, instead 
of railroad; the station, instead of the depot; the buss, 
instead of the omnibus ; a fly, instead of a buggy ; loots, 
instead of the waiter ; and the like. But these exceptions 
are too few to mar the unity of the language ; and unless 
the traveller has been so long on the Continent as to feel 
at home there, it will be a luxury, on returning to Eng- 
land, to hear once more the accents of his native tongue. 
It is true that an American may travel on the Con- 
tinent, or mainland of Europe, without knowing aught 
beforehand of any language save his own. He will of 
course pick up a few of the most common and necessary 
words in each country which he visits ; and in many of 



LANGUAGES. 49 

the hotels and shops he will find those who speak English, 
having learned our tongue for the sake of drawing custom 
or gaining employment. He may even be amused by 
their mistakes in speaking his own tongue ; as they may 
well be by his mistakes in attempting theirs. For the 
rest, he must get along by means of natural signs, and his 
native Yankee shrewdness, in conveying his own ideas 
and guessing at the meaning of others. Such cases came 
under the writer's notice, and the success was all that 
could be expected. Still, he would advise that no one 
should attempt to travel on the Continent of Europe, un- 
less in a case of absolute necessity, without acquiring at 
least a partial knowledge of the French language, in 
addition to his own. 

The French have taken great pains to disseminate their 
language ; and the armies of Napoleon helped to spread 
the knowledge of it in camps as well as courts. Accord- 
ingly, in every town of central Europe, many persons will 
be found who speak French, among those who cannot 
speak English : and by the help of these two languages, 
a traveller can get along tolerably well, even in Italy and 
Germany, especially in the large cities, and on the great 
lines of travel, where it is for the interest of the people to 
acquire these languages, to accommodate their visitors. 
Still, the traveller will lose much information and enjoy- 
ment in Italy, unless he possess some knowledge of the 
Italian language; and in Germany, unless he have studied 
the German. To one who has studied Latin, or French, 
or both, the Italian language will be found much easier to 
learn than the German ; hpoause he is already acquainted 



50 GENERAL REMARKS. 

with the roots of so many of the words, and the grammat- 
ical forms are so similar. But as the German litera- 
ture is decidedly richer than the Italian, this becomes a 
reason for studying the German language in preference, if 
only one of the two can be acquired ; although if the 
traveller is to visit Italy, and not Germany, he may on 
this account prefer the Italian. 

The writer would here express the opinion that it is 
better to have a slight knowledge of the language of any 
country to be travelled over than to have none at all. 
The remark is sometimes made that a slight knowledge of 
any thing is worth nothing: but the truth is, that all knowl- 
edge is worth something, when not presumed upon, although 
imperfect knowledge is worth less than its due proportion, 
— in other words, at a heavy discount. There are some 
things that we ought to know thoroughly ; and others 
which it is enough to understand, not superficially but 
partially, in order to profit by them so far as they can be 
made available. And thus a partial knowledge of the 
Italian and German languages will enable the traveller to 
understand much that he hears or sees, and to gain some 
insight into the sentiments, modes of thought and intel- 
lectual life of the Italians and Germans: whilst a thorough 
knowledge of French will be of greater importance, as it 
will help him farther on his way. Of course a thorough 
knowledge of all these languages is desirable, if it be at- 
tainable. 

It is unnecessary here to name the different works 
which may be used for the acquisition of these languages. 
Suffice it to say, that the works of Ollendorff answer a 



51 
LANGUAGES. 



tolerably good purpose, and are much used. But the 
eMs not alone In the opinion that many words and 
nrases collected in these whs are of little use o ^av- 
„ers ; while many words and phrases wuch « - 

importance in travelling are entirely o.mtted. Fo the use 
of travellers, these works have no parUcular adaption. 
W. MM of MT«l% on the other hand 
»I ins much which the traveller rehires m German 
French, and Italian; but is adapted only to hose who 
h ve already made some proficiency in *-*££ 
«*^. French Mmual" is, perhaps, *•**£ 
travellers, so far as that language is concerned ; fo. other 
n ^ges a work devoted to the phrases which traveller 
lit rehire, is still a desideratum. Other wo* maybe 
found on the Continent similar to Murray's Travel-Talk , 

iTlf Imich is the .*■— Gum * a-rr^ 

ZLe, en Quatres Ungues" published m Pans b, 
Bandry : and to such works the traveller is referred for a 
Jock of words which may suffice as a travellmg vocabu- 

lM For those who attempt to use these works, or to pro- 
nounce words in the languages referred to, wthout any 
previous study of the same, it may be usefu to esplam hat 
L French and Italian, a has the open sound, as m fatke, 
M in German it is rather broader, and more hke a m W. 
Z2 these three languages, . long has the s,ender sound 
of our a, as in fate ; i long has the long sound of on «, 
or ee as in feet ; and o has the same sound as in Enghsh 
12 I hmg ha's a peculiar slender souml in French an 
the sound of our 00 in Italian and German. The 



52 GENERAL REMARKS. 

language is characterized by its nasal sounds, slightly re- 
sembling the sound of our ng, of which there are four : 
the Jlat nasal sound, expressed by aim, ain, ein, im, or in, 
all of which have the same pronunciation, like that of 
our word am, with the m half suppressed ; the open nasal 
sound, expressed by am or an, pronounced, as it were, 
ohm, with the m half suppressed ; the broad nasal sound, 
expressed by om, or on, pronounced like om in English, 
with the m half suppressed ; and the blunt nasal sound, 
expressed by um or un, pronounced like um in English, 
but with the m half suppressed. There is nothing like 
these sounds in the Italian or German. But the Italian 
has its liquid sounds: of I, expressed by gl, followed 
by i ; and of n, expressed by gn, followed by i. Of the 
former we have an example in the word seraglio, and of 
the latter in the word bagnio. Finally, the German is 
characterized by its guttural sound, expressed by eh after 
a vowel, which cannot be described, but must be learned 
by hearing ; and in this language sch is pronounced like 
sh in English. In French, eh sounds like our sh; and in 
Italian it sounds like our 7j ; while, in Italian, c before e 
or i sounds like our eh in church. In German, s before a 
vowel is sounded like z; while in French s final is often 
silent, as are also final e, p, r, t, and z. In Italian, z or zz 
lias the sound of tz ; and, in French, j has the sound of 
zh, which sound occurs in the English words azure, 
pleasure : but, in Italian, j is only used to stand for ii, as 
in gajo, for gai-io, gay. When ai or ei in French are 
simple diphthongs, and not nasal, they have the slender 
sound of our a, as in fate ; but, in Italian, they always 



COURIERS. 53 

form two syllables, — at being pronounced ah-ee in quick 
succession, and ei being pronounced eigh-ee in the same 
manner. In German, ei has the sound of our long i or y, 
as in by ; and in French and German ie has the sound of 
our ee, except when followed by r in French, when the r 
is silent, and the vowels are diphthongal, as in Italian. In 
French, aw, or eau, has the sound of our long 0, as shown 
in the word bureau ; but, in Italian and German, au has 
the sound of our ou in t7iou, or ow in noio ; while eu, in 
French, has a peculiar sound, between those of our u short 
and u long ; and, in German, eu has another peculiar 
sound, intermediate between that of our long i and uh. 
Finally, in German, ae, or a, has the sound of our a in 
fate ; oe, or o, has the sound of the French eu ; and ue, 
or it, has nearly the sound of our short i or ee, but its 
pronunciation can only be learned by hearing. 



§ 10. Couriers. 

The name of Couriers, or runners, was primarily applied 
to those agents, or servants, who were sent forward to 
engage horses, or apartments, or meals, and thus speed 
the traveller's way ; but it is how applied to one who 
accompanies the traveller, pays his bills, engages his pas- 
sage, performs errands, and, to a certain extent, becomes 
the personal servant of the traveller employing him. In 
regard to this class of attendants, we quote the following 
passage from Murray's Handbook of Northern Germany : 
and we do so the more readily, as nothing corresponding 
to it is found in his Handbooks of France and Northern 



54 GENERAL REMARKS. 

Italy. -b The traveller, who speaks the language of the 
Continent himself, and will submit to the details of the 
coinage and the post books, may save himself much ex- 
pense by dispensing with a servant altogether. Thus 
the knowledge of language becomes a source of economy. 
A courier, however, though an expensive luxury, is one 
which conduces much to the ease and pleasure of travel- 
ling ; and few wTio can afford one will forego the advan- 
tage of his services. He relieves his master from much 
fatigue of body and perplexity of mind, in unravelling 
the difficulties of long bills and foreign moneys, sparing 
his temper the trials it is likely to endure from disputes 
with innkeepers, postmasters, and the like. A courier, if 
clever and experienced, and disposed to consult the com- 
fort of his employer, is a most useful person. His duties 
consist in preceding the carriage at each stage, to secure 
relays of post-horses on those routes where horses are 
scarce, or where the number of travellers makes it diffi- 
cult to procure them. This, however, is seldom necessary, 
except where the travelling party is very large, occupying 
several carriages, and requiring six or eight horses, Avhich 
may take an hour or two to collect at a post-house, and 
must often be brought in from the fields. He must make 
arrangements for his employer's reception at inns where 
he intends to pass the night; must secure comfortable 
rooms, clean and well-aired beds, and order meals to be 
prepared, and fires to be lighted, taking care that his 
master is called in proper time, and that the post-horses 
are ordered at the right hour. He ought to have a 
thorough knowledge of every thing that relates to the 



POI EIERS. 55 

care of a carriage ; he should examine it at the end of 
each day's journey, to ascertain whether it requires any 
repairs, which should be executed before setting out; and 
it is his fault if any accident occur en route from neglect 
of such precautions. He should superintend the packing 
and unpacking of the luggage, should know the number 
of parcels, &c, and be on his guard against leaving any 
thing behind. It falls to the courier to pay innkeepers, 
postmasters, and postboj's; and he ought to take care 
that his master is not overcharged. Besides this, he 
performs all the services of waiting and attendance, clean- 
ing and brushing clothes, &c. He ought to write, as well 
as speak the language of the countries he is about to visit, 
so as to be able to communicate by letter with innkeepers, 
when it is necessary to bespeak accommodation before- 
hand ; and he is not perfectly accomplished unless he have 
a smattering of the art of cookery." 

It will be perceived that these remarks have special 
reference to those who are travelling post, a method of 
travelling which is now to a great extent superseded by 
railroads, and by diligences running in connection with 
them. Still, the duties of a courier remain the same in 
other respects, and are sufficiently described in this pas- 
sage from Murray. It should be added, that couriers, 
like other servants, ought not to be taken without good 
recommendations, especially in regard to integrity, as 
they are exposed to many temptations. Their wages are 
usually from $30 to $60 per month, out of which they are 
expected to board themselves, although it is said thai 
they often receive boarding from the landlords, as a fee 



00 GENERAL REMAKES. 

for bringing guests; and thus the traveller meets this 
expense in paying heavier bills. Their passage, or con- 
veyance, from place to place, is, of course, at the expense 
of their employer. But, when in cities, they generally 
decline to act as guides ; so that it becomes necessary to 
hire a valet-de-place, or commissionaire for this purpose, 
if one wishes to see all that is curious, and, at the same 
time, to pay the courier for being idle. On the whole, 
the employment of couriers can only be recommended to 
those who are entirely ignorant of the language of the 
country, or to those who have wealth to lavish in exchange 
for ease. If a courier is to be employed economically, it 
is well to find one who is acquainted with the places to 
be visited, and to stipulate that he shall act as a guide. 
It is generally easy to procure good guides, however, in 
most of the continental cities, at the price of about $1 per 
day. 

§ 11. Conveyance. 

The only countries of Europe in which railroads are 
yet abundant are England, the southern half of Scotland, 
the eastern part of Ireland, the northern part of France, 
and the greater part of Belgium, Holland, and Germany. 
Those who wish for minute information on this subject 
will find it in Bradshaw's Railway Guides, British and 
Continental, already referred to under the head of " Guide- 
Books." It should be remembered that on all the conti- 
nental railroads a separate charge is made for the baggage, 
according to its weight. It is necessary to reach the 
station punctually, in order to afford time for weighing 



CONVEYANCE. 5*7 

and ticketing the baggage, and paying for the same as 
well as for a passage ticket, before the train arrives. The 
traveller should, of course, give notice some time before- 
hand to his landlord, and order conveyance for himself 
and luggage to the railway station, punctually, if he would 
not be left behind. Each article of baggage should be 
marked, at least with the owner's initials ; in order that 
if miscarried it may be identified and recovered. Where 
the baggage is carried on the top of the cars, it is conve- 
nient to occupy the same car on which one's own baggage 
is placed. In England, the second-class cars generally 
have no cushions, and are far from being neat or agree- 
able, though occupied, for the most part, by respectable 
or well-dressed persons. But, on the Continent, the se- 
cond-class cars are generally so good as to have occasioned 
the proverb, that " none travel in the first-class cars save 
princes and fools." It is otherwise with the continental 
steamboats, in which a first-class passage is not too good 
or luxurious to satisfy an ordinary American traveller. 
The safest are said to be those managed by English en- 
gineers ; and those on the inland waters are probably 
safer than those on the ocean. 

In Paris and London, omnibuses will be found 
running in almost all directions, but it is not so in the 
cities of Italy, Switzerland, Holland and Belgium, where 
the traveller must be content to walk, or else take a 
private conveyance. In Venice, the private carriages 
are replaced by gondolas ; which are long and slender 
boats, with a high beak at the prow, a portion covered 
like a carriage body, in the centre, and a gondolier at 
4 



58 GENERAL REMARKS. 

the stern, and perhaps another at the prow, by whom 
the boat is propelled rapidly along the canals of that 
silent and mysterious city. In Amsterdam, sledges were 
formerly used instead of carriages, and may still be seen 
occasionally, freighted with goods ; but they must soon 
disappear entirely, at least in summer, and be remem- 
bered only as a relic of the past. 

In France, Italy, and Switzerland, the public carriages 
running regularly on certain lines are called diligences, 
corresponding to our stages. A French diligence is a 
very large and cumbrous vehicle, having three separate 
apartments within ; the foremost called the coupe, which 
is the pleasantest, and affords the pleasantest view ; the 
middle one called the interieur, which is the next best ; 
and the rearmost called the rotonde, which affords the 
poorest view, and collects the most dust. There are 
seats also on the top, which is called the banquette, pre- 
ferable to the rotonde, and tolerably protected from the 
weather. An Italian diligence generally has but two 
apartments below, the coupe in front, and the interieur, 
which is the larger and cheaper part ; the price varying 
according to the eligibility of the seats. The traveller 
who wishes a seat in the coupe, must bespeak it some 
time beforehand, or he will probably find it already 
engaged by others. 

To travel post, is to take a carriage for a long journey, 
hiring horses for short distances, called posts, and chang- 
ing them at intervals on the way. This term is doubt- 
less derived from the Latin, post, signifying after ; be- 
cause couriers are often sent forward to engage relays 



CONVEYANCE. 59 

of horses, and the traveller proceeds after them. The 
posts, or distances from station to station, are regulated 
by government, as also the hire to be paid for horses, and 
the number of them to be kept at each station. In Italy, 
a party of travellers may find it more pleasant to engage 
a veltura, or private carriage, the owner or driver of 
which is called a vetturino ; and to make a bargain with 
him for the whole journey. Printed forms may be had 
for such a contract ; and if the vetturino engage to pro- 
vide meals and lodging for the travellers on the way, 
a caveat should be entered for a reduction of the price, if 
he do not give satisfaction. The veturino expect3 a pre- 
sent at the journey's end, called a luona mano ; and this, 
at least, may be withheld, if he have not been faithful to 
his engagement. A light four-wheeled carriage, at 
Naples is called a cale&so, and is suitable for short excur- 
sions from the city. The French caleche is still lighter, 
and has only two wheels. The post-coaches of England 
are fine carriages ; but the fare is high, and the driver 
expects his fee, as also do the postillions of Italy. A light 
carriage, called a gig or fly, may be hired in England or 
Scotland, for short excursions ; and in Ireland the tra- 
veller will find a peculiar vehicle, called a jaunting car, 
having two wheels, and seats along the middle, so that 
the passengers face sideways, and sit back to back, their 
feet projecting outward on either side. 



60 GENERAL REMARKS. 



§ 12. Health. 

The traveller, of all persons, has need to be careful of 
his health, in reference to the delay, the expense, and 
the suffering which are attendant upon sickness ; and the 
last two items at least, are liable to be much aggravated 
when among strangers. Perhaps the two most impor- 
tant requisites to this end, are a due provision for keep- 
ing warm, and especially for keeping the feet warm, in 
cold weather, or in cold, mountainous regions ; and a 
careful attention to diet, and the condition of the sto- 
mach and alimentary system, on which health so much 
depends. One other condition may rank with these in 
importance ; to guard against becoming overheated, and 
especially against the head becoming overheated or sun- 
struck in hot climates ; and when heated, to beware of 
drinking ice-water, or very cold drinks, unless it be very 
gradually, to avoid internal inflammation. 

In regard to clothing, it is a good rule, whenever the 
weather is cool, or changeable, to wear flannel next to 
the skin. Woollen socks or stockings are also said to be 
the most comfortable for pedestrians, as causing the least 
irritation or soreness of the feet. To most persons it is 
of the utmost importance that the feet should be kept 
both dry and clean ; and frequent bathing or washing 
of the whole body is recommended to all as highly con- 
ducive to both health and comfort. The daily use of a 
fine comb, or stiff brush, will also render the head more 
comfortable ; and the hair is doubtless preserved by 



HEALTH. 61 

occasional washing with soap and water. In the inns of 
France and Italy no soap is provided for the toilette ; 
the traveller must therefore carry a supply. To protect 
the head from excessive heat, a thin hat should be 
chosen, and an extra lining of white paper inserted; 
besides which an umbrella should be carried, when it is 
necessary to be exposed to a hot sun. 

In regard to diet, the writer would recommend sim- 
plicity, as generally favorable to health. Where the 
meats are so concocted or disguised as not to be palat- 
able, a simple chicken may be found to relish ; or fresh 
eggs, or milk, or butter, with bread and vegetables, may 
supply the place of meat. The soups found in good 
hotels are generally palatable and wholesome; but the 
water in Europe is generally poor, except in mountain- 
ous regions. Those who are fond of milk, will find this 
the best substitute; and when sweetened and diluted 
with warm water, it is believed to be more wholesome 
than tea or coffee. In those alluvial regions where the 
water is unpalatable, and has a cathartic effect, the use 
of the pure wine of the country, which is astringent, and 
therefore remedial, is thought to be necessary, even by 
many who are the strictest friends of temperance, and 
who would by no means indulge in such a luxury at 
home. When this does not suffice to check any tendency 
to diarrhoea, the use of brandy may; though it is a most 
dangerous habit to acquire. Ripe and sound fruits are 
doubtless wholesome, but as their tendency is aperient, 
and may be cathartic, they should not be used to excess; 
and should be laid aside entirely when there is any re- 



62 GENERAL REMARKS. 

laxative tendency; their place being supplied by a simple 
farinaceous diet, as of bread, crackers, or cake. "What- 
ever may be the diet, it is doubtless more wholesome in 
all cases to eat too little, than too much. After exces- 
sive exposure to cold or fatigue, the transient use of 
brandy or ardent spirits may be allowable as a medicine; 
though they are most dangerous and pernicious as an 
ordinary drink. 

The last caution which will here be offered in regard 
to health, is to avoid all irregularity or licentious habits. 
Whatever tends to excite the passions, or to inflame the 
blood, or to impair the strength, must necessarily be in- 
jurious, and may be fatal. The traveller, however hardy, 
has need of all his strength, in order to accomplish the 
objects which should engage his time ; and from these he 
cannot be diverted without suffering loss. If he cannot 
resist the allurements of vice, in their most seductive 
forms, it were far better and safer that he should be 
honestly and honorably employed at home. But be- 
sides this, he should avoid all irregularities, as much as 
he can ; and seek for a due proportion of quiet rest each 
night ; or when deprived of it make compensation there- 
for, by extra rest, whenever there is an opportunity. If 
he presume too much upon his powers of endurance, he 
may break down at an unexpected moment, and pay the 
severest penalties for his presumption in overtasking 
nature, and defrauding it of its right. 



PURCHASES. 63 



13. Purchases. 



Travellers in Europe will generally bo inclined to 
make sundry small purchases, as of statues, pictures, 
engravings, models of buildings, cameos, mosaics, mine- 
rals, gems, coins, watches, musical boxes, and other 
articles of r-ertu; not to speak of clothing and other 
merchantable articles. A few words of advice on this 
subject therefore, will not be out of place. And the first 
remark will be, that there is not so much economy in 
these purchases as might at first appear, judging from the 
low price of the articles ; because if the traveller takes 
them with him, they accumulate, and involve the care 
and expense of extra baggage ; or if he forward them to 
the United States, the expenses of freight are very heavy 
in comparison with the bulk and cost of the articles ; 
and the custom-house duties are to be added, which are 
one cause of the high price of such articles in American 
shops. Still, as there is a peculiar satisfaction in bring- 
ing home these mementoes of the places visited, the 
traveller will doubtless make some purchases, regardless 
of the trouble and expense of getting his treasures safely 
home. 

In Paris, curiosities will be found of every kind, and 
especially engravings, very beautiful and very cheap. 
Indeed almost every city will furnish engravings and 
maps of itself, and its own neighborhood, cheaper than 
they can be obtained elsewhere. At Secres, near Paris, 
the finest porcelain may be purchased, at the French 
government prices. In Lyons, the richest sills may be 



64 GENERAL REMARKS. 

bought; but the buyer should remember that they are 
subject to a heavy duty. In Genoa may be found rich 
points, velvets and silks ; and at Leghorn, straw hats, and 
alabaster ornaments, such as models of the leaning tower 
of Pisa, which may also be found at Pisa itself. In 
Naples, the cheapest gloves, caps, and silk hose may bf 
purchased, and various ornaments of lava, with models 
in cork of the ancient temples of Paestum, beautifully 
executed. Rome, says Coghlan, "is celebrated for all 
sorts of engravings and prints, antiques, cameos, pearls, 
bass-reliefs, ornaments of architecture, pictures of 
popes, cardinals, illustrious men, works of the most 
celebrated painters, perfumes, admirable bergamot, 
limetta, imperial oil, and of millefiori, and all sorts of 
quintessences, balsams, pomatums, &c. The Eoman per- 
fumers have a particular way or secret to perfume skins, 
of which they make gloves, purses, fans, &c." The an- 
tique marbles and Roman mosaics should also be men- 
tioned, which latter are formed of little squares; while 
the Florentine mosaics, to be had in Florence, are com- 
posed of little stones of various shapes, adapted to the 
object represented. Florence is also noted for perfumes; 
but that of the Florence rose, though fragrant, is said to 
be injurious if used too freely. It also furnishes stones 
called Dentritcs, and others called Ruins of Florence, 
which come from Monte Limmagio. Venice is noted 
for fine gold chains, silk stuffs, snuff-boxes, and all sorts 
of works of glass and crystal. At Verona may be had 
specimens of petrified fish from Mt. Bolca ; and Milan 
produces beautiful engravings, Cornelian rings and 



PURCHASES. 05 

other ornaments, and various minerals may be had at 
Ckamouny ; watches and musical boxes, at Geneva ; and 
models of Swiss cottages, and other beautiful wood carv- 
ings at Lucerne. Brussels is noted for its lace, Bir- 
mingham furnishes beautiful plated, and gilt ware, steel 
pens, and papier-machi ; and Slieffield, the most perfect 
cutlery. 

Articles purchased in Paris, and properly boxed, may 
be easily sent home by leaving them in the care of Messrs. 
Livingston, "Wells & Co. ; whose office, near the Paris 
Bourse or Exchange, is head-quarters for Americans in 
Paris, and contains a register in which they may record 
their names and address, and by which they may gen- 
erally find the address of their countrymen sojourning 
there. From Leghorn, frequent opportunities will be 
found for sending packages directly home, by means of 
vessels bound to the United States. A like opportunity 
may be found at Genoa or Naples ; but more rarely. Such 
packages should be consigned to some agent or friend at 
the American port to which the vessel is bound; to whom 
a, bill of lading should at once be forwarded by mail, to be 
presented at the custom-house when the goods arrive. 
Otherwise, the articles will be deposited in the custom- 
house, until the owner claims them and pays the duty. 
A receipt should of course be taken of the captain of the 
vessel, to whom the articles are intrusted. At Lucerne, 
in Switzerland, the writer intrusted a collection of pur- 
chases to Mr. J. Kesselbach, to be boxed and forwarded 
to a certain address, in Liverpool. On arriving there, the 
box was not to be found ; but after a long delay and much 
4* 



66 GENERAL REMARKS, 

pains, it was finally brought to light in London, simply 
marked J. K. U. (J. Kesselbach, Unterfinger). Had it 
been marked with the owner's name, and sent directly to 
the United States, via Paris and Havre, this trouble and 
anxiety might have been avoided. M. Kesselbach repre- 
senting himself as having regular agencies in Liverpool 
and New- York, which proved not to be the case ; owing 
probably to a misunderstanding. Those who may wish 
for further information on this subject, may doubtless ob- 
tain it by inquiring of the chief importing houses in our 
large seaports. 

§ 14. Correspondence. 

No traveller, having friends at home, will be willing to 
remain absent a long time, without hearing from them, 
and writing in return They will of course be anxious to 
hear accounts of where Dpi has been, and what he has seen ; 
and for this reason, if no or.ner, he should keep a, journal, 
and record therein, from da;y t r'ay, however hastily and 
briefly, the chief events which have transpired with him, 
and the chief objects which have engaged his attention. 
A thin manuscript book and pencil will suffice for this 
purpose; or a more elaborate journal may be Avritten out. 
The value of such a journal cannot be fully appreciated 
until the traveller shall have had frequent occasion to 
refer to it after his return home. The writer contented 
himself with rough notes by the way, and sent a full 
journal, in the form of letters, to his family at home. 
Having the best channel of conveyance, not one of hjs 
letters was lost during the season. 



CORRESPONDENCE. 67 

As the transatlantic postage is very expensive, and 
proportionate to the weight of letters, the thin French 
writing paper, or other like it, should be used; and a 
small portable writing-case, which will contain such paper, 
with pen, ink, &c, and which may be carried in the tray 
of a trunk, or in a carpet-bag, will be found of great con- 
venience. The traveller may, if he please, forward his 
letters directly to his friends in the United States, paying 
the postage where he finds it necessary, or Avhere courtesy 
would require it. But if he is to travel rapidly from 
place to place, it will not be so easy for his friends at 
home to know where to direct to him ; and this is a very 
important requisite for his comfort. It is much better, 
therefore, to have some agent in England, to whom let- 
ters may be forwarded from the United States, bearing 
simply the traveller's name ; and that agent, being fre- 
quently informed by the traveller of his movements, will 
fill up the address as may be directed, and forward the 
letters to him, to some place in advance, where he may 
soon expect to arrive. The writer was favored with the 
agency of Messrs. Baring Brothers & Co., London, they 
being his hankers, and would here record his obligations 
for the kind and accurate manner in which that agency 
was performed. Through them he received letters at 
Paris, Rome, Venice, Geneva, Brussels, London, Birming- 
ham, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Liverpool, the last on the 
eve of sailing for home ; and the only change which he 
would now wish to have made, would be the addition of 
Strasbourg, or Frankfort, to the points of communication. 
His letters home from the Continent, except those from 



68 GENERAL REMARKS. 

Paris, were sent by the same channel ; and probably were 
more free from suspicion, and less likely to be opened by 
foreign officials, than if they had been directed at once to 
his friends in the United States. In reference to this last 
point, it is wise to abstain from severe remarks on foreign 
governments, institutions, or officers ; lest the letters may 
never find their way home. 

§ 15. Credentials. 

The traveller who is to make a long stay at any place 
in Europe, will find it of great importance to have letters 
of introduction to prominent or respectable persons there. 
Through them he may become better acquainted with 
persons, manners, institutions, localities, language, &c. 
than would otherwise be possible. One such letter, to a 
prominent person, may suffice as an introduction to a 
whole circle of society. In general, the ministers and 
consuls of our government have facilities for giving such 
introductions ; and letters to them may suffice instead of 
letters to foreign citizens. 

But the traveller who is passing rapidly on, and making 
but a short stay in any place, will find letters of intro- 
duction to persons with whom he has no particular 
business, a hindrance rather than a help, in regard to the 
objects of his tour. The time spent in finding those per- 
sons, might suffice to see some curiosity which otherwise 
could not be seen ; and such persons, when found, might 
well be reluctant to quit their own pursuits and give up 



CREDENTIALS. 69 

their time to the traveller, unless he has some special 
claim upon their attention. Generally speaking, a pro- 
fessed guide, whether called a commissionaire, or valet-de- 
place, or cicerone, will be much more available to assist the 
traveller in seeing what is worthy to be seen, than a 
stranger to whom a letter of introduction is presented. 
The services of the guide may generally be had at once, 
and commanded uninterruptedly, at a moderate price, 
usually at about $1 per day : and the better class of these 
guides are intelligent men, who have made a study of the 
places through which they conduct the traveller, and will 
give him much information while taking him systemat- 
ically around the beaten track. 

In short, the hasty traveller, or one who wishes to 
make an extensive tour in Europe in one season, must not 
expect to enjoy much society of foreigners ; though he 
may exchange civil attentions with many, if he and they 
can converse together. His intercourse with them must 
be too brief to elicit extended conversation, or to ripen 
into intimacy. The society on which he may best rely, 
is that of some fellow-countrymen, or party of Americans, 
with whom he may perform the tour, or a part of it to- 
gether. If such be congenial spirits, their society will be 
a great solace amid the loneliness of a foreign land ; and 
if they be intelligent companions, their conversation will 
be instructive as well as agreeable, and may elicit or im- 
part valuable information by the way. Their compan- 
ionship will be economical also, and to both parties alike ; 
inasmuch as the expense of guides, admission-fees, car- 



70 GENERAL REMARKS. 

riage-hire and the like, will often be no greater for the 
whole party than for one individual. 

§ 16. Religion. 

The traveller, more than almost any other class of per- 
sons, should feel his dependence on Divine power and 
protection, and should pay his devotions accordingly. It 
is a fact to which many a pious person will bear witness, 
that the usual tendency of travelling is to secularize the 
mind, by withdrawing it from spiritual to the considera- 
tion of worldly things. There is something in the excite- 
ment of hurrying from scene to scene, very different from 
that calm, contemplative frame of mind which brings the 
soul in harmony with heaven. It is true that mighty 
oceans, majestic rivers, lofty mountains, and glassy lakes, 
all those sublime works of nature, ought to elevate tlie 
mind to commune with nature's great Author ; and even 
the "cloud-capt towers," erected by human art, should 
point us to Him who gave the power to build such tem- 
ples to his praise. But man, in his weakness, is apt to 
sink to the architectural details of these great structures, 
and the subordinate agencies of his own race, and to 
forget that "great First Cause, least understood," on 
whom himself and all things else depend. 

This ought not so to be : and the traveller who would 
not miss the way to heaven, while wandering over the 
earth, must endeavor to collect his thoughts in some exer- 
cise of daily devotion, which ought to be at some stated 



RELIGION. 11 

hours, or Lour, as in the morning and evening. The 
Bible will be allowed him, even in Italy, and it should be 
his daily guide-book, on a longer journey than this world 
can measure or comprehend. Or if language be wanting, 
he will find in the Prayer Book such forms of devotion as 
may serve for vehicles to bring the soul near to its Maker ; 
and an additional prayer is here appended, if any will 
prefer to use it. But especially on the Lord's Day, how- 
ever tempted the traveller may be to idleness or wander- 
ing, he should not allow the hour of worship to pass by, 
without presenting himself in some temple of God, to 
render thanks for his goodness, and to supplicate its con- 
tinuance. If he be a Protestant, he will find Protestant 
chapels, especially those of the Church of England, in 
nearly all the principal towns on the Continent; and in 
these he will hear and may join in a scriptural worship, 
in his own tongue. The only large cities in which the 
writer did not find an English chapel, were Venice and 
Milan ; and even in these an occasional service is held by 
English clergymen, at the hotels where they may chance 
to sojourn. Other Protestant places of worship will be 
found in France, Switzerland, Holland, and Germany, and 
an American congregational chapel has recently been 
opened at Rome, in connection with the American Em- 
bassy. As these chapels are generally supported by vol- 
untary contributions, or private means, an admission fee 
is required by some of them ; and if it be not, the traveller 
who attends them should not begrudge a small contribu- 
tion for the maintenance of religious ordinances. It would 



72 GENERAL REMARKS. 

be grateful, in sickness, and consoling even in death, 
should one be summoned to die there, to find a pastor 
who could receive the last message, and utter the last 
prayer in our own native tongue ; and such may be the 
sad office of those who are supported by these contribu- 
tions. u Siste Viator, et Dominum adora, in Templo ejus 
Sacro." 



SECOND DIVISION. 

OUTLINE TOUR. 

npHE following outline, or skeleton, of a six months' 
-*- tour in Europe, is here presented to the traveller, not 
in the expectation that he, or any one, will be able to follow 
it exactly, but as a general itinerary, by means of which 
he will be able to estimate his own progress, and propor- 
tion his own time; so as not to linger too long amid 
scenes of minor interest, nor pass too rapidly by those of 
greater importance, unless for special reasons. This out- 
line is almost a transcript of the author's own tour, which 
was carefully studied before commencing it, and modified 
according to the best information attainable ; but it is 
now farther modified from the writer's own experience, 
and specially adapted to the present year, for the conve- 
nience of those travellers who may wish to visit Europe 
during the ensuing season. 

For the sake of being definite, the traveller is sup- 
posed to sail from New-York, by a Collins steamer, on 
Saturday, the 19th of March, 1853, and to reach Liver- 
pool on the evening of "Wednesday the 30th ; although 



74 OUTLINE TOUR VOYAGE. 

the chief benefit of taking this route will be to visit Lon- 
don while the Houses of Parliament are in session, which 
would not be the case on returning from the Continent 
in August. Otherwise, it will be more economical, both 
of time and money, to take a steamer to Havre, via South- 
ampton, or a Bremen steamer touching at Southampton ; 
in which case the first part of the tour, as here given, 
will 1 c omitted as far as to the latter place. The tour, 
from Havre onward, will be the same in either case ; and 
if London be not partly seen at the outset, it may be 
wholly seen on visiting it in midsummer, although it will 
then be comparatively dull, the fashionable society having 
mostly withdrawn to the watering-places and to the 
country. For the sake of brevity, the directions hence- 
forward will be given in the imperative, which is here 
meant to be only a suggestive mood. Kemarks on the 
voyage out have already been offered ; and the traveller, 
on reaching Liverpool, will find good quarters at the 
Adelplii, or Lynn's Waterloo Hotel. 

Liverpool to Lon- March 31, Th. — Proceed from Liver- 
toeigMhfius y ' S1X P ? 1 t0 London by the accommodation 
train, starting at 10 or 11 o'clock, a.m. 
This train will afford a more leisurely 
view of the country, should the weather 
be pleasant, and will be more economical, 
bringing you to London at a seasonable 
hour in the evening. On leaving Liver- 
pool, you pass through a long tunnel, and 
travel on the Liverpool and Manchester 
road as far as Newton Junction ; thence 
southward, by Warrington, Hartford, 
Crewe Junction, Whitmore, Norton 
Bridge, and Stafford; and, if the Trent 



OUTLINE TOUR LONDON. 75 

Valley railway be taken, you will pass so 
near Lichfield as to see the spire of its 
Cathedral on the right ; and through 
Tamworth, in sight of Tamicorth Castle, 
which was the residence of the late Sir 
Robert Peel. Otherwise, the route will 
be through Wolverhampton, Birming- 
ham, and Coventry ; and, in either case, 
through Rugby, where both roads unite, 
and where is the collegiate school, ren- 
dered so celebrated by the late Dr. Ar- 
nold. Thence you proceed through Blis- 
worth, Wolverton, Bletchley Junction, 
Leighton Junction, Tring. Watford, and 
Harrow, noted for its collegiate school, — 
the general direction being south-east- 
ward — to London. Very comfortable and London: 
convenient lodgings will probably be Hotels, 
found in London at the Golden Cross, 
Charing Cross ; or Morleifs, Charing 
Cross and Trafalgar Square ; or Fen- 
ton's, in St. James's Street, which is less 
central, but perhaps more elegant, and, 
at least, equally expensive. Other hotels 
may be found much cheaper than these ; 
and, for those making a long stay, it will 
be still cheaper to take private lodgings. 
See on this subject, p. xxxi of Murray's 
Handbook for Modern London, which 
should be purchased immediately, and, 
on leaving London, it may be deposited 
there, against your return thither from 
the Continent. 

April 1, Fr— Purchase Reynolds' New 
Map of London, which may probably be 
found at Lee's, 440 Strand, or at some 
other shop on that prominent street. At 
Lee's, your passport may be neatly en- 
cased, at a few hours' notice. Observe 
Northumberland House, at Charing Cross, 
the city residence of the Duke of Nor- 
thumberland, with a rich central gate- 



76 OUTLINE TOUR LONDON. 

way, surmounted by the Lion crest of 
the Percys. On the opposite side of 

National Gallery. Trafalgar Square is the National Gallery 
of Painting and Sculpture, presenting a 
long facade; but it is not open to the 
public on Fridays or Saturdays. Observe 
also the Nelson Monument, and the statue 
of George IV., by Chantry, in Trafalgar 
Square ; and that of Charles L, by Le 
Soeur, at Charing Cross. The church 
fronting on Trafalgar Square, and adjoin- 
ing Morley's Hotel, is St. Martin' "s-in-the- 
Fields, and was the mcdel of St. Paul's 
Chapel in New-York. Take a stroll from 
Charing Cross down Whitehall, by the 
Horse Guards, to the Palace of Parlia- 

Westminster Abbey, ment and Westminster Abbey ; gaze on 
the exterior, and attend morning service 
in the latter, ascertaining at what hours 
the Abbey is open. The old, projecting 

Houses of Parliament portion of the Parliament Palace, or 
House, is called Westminster Hall, and is 
rich in historical associations. Then, after 
visiting St. James's Park, if there be 
time, wait on the American Minister, 
between 12 and 2 o'clock, to have your 

Passport. passport vised by the Secretary of Lega- 

tion, and to solicit tickets of admission 
to the Houses of Parliament, which do 
not open until six or seven o'clock. After 
this, it will be well, if there be time be- 
fore dinner, to return, and examine the 
monuments in Westminster Abbey, if it 
is now open. — See Murray\ London, 
p. 93. 

After dinner, stroll down the Mall, 
along the north side of St. James's Park; 
passing Carlton House, where George IV. 
resided when Prince Regent, but it is 
now divided, and a part of it removed, 
for a passage into Regent Street, and 
here stands the Dule of YorTJs Column; 



OUTLINE TOUR LONDON. t I 

passing, also, Marlborough House, built 

for the great Duke of Marlborough, and 

in which he died, but now occupied by 

the Vernon Gallery of Paintings, and Vernon Gallery. 

intended for the residence of the Prince 

of Wales when he shall become of age ; 

passing also St. James's Palace, of red 

brick, once the residence of George 

III., and still used for royal levees 

and "drawing-rooms:" and this walk, 

if continued, will lead to Buckingham Palaces. 

Palace, the town residence of Queen 

Victoria. It will now perhaps be time 

to visit the House of Lords, if accessible, Houses of Lords and 

entering through a splendid vestibule, Commons. 

containing statues, in white marble, of 

Hampden, Clarendon, and Falkland, 

with pedestals for more, and ascending 

to the Strangers' Gallery. Observe the 

Lords sitting with their hats on ; the 

Bishops, if present, in their robes; and 

the Lord Chancellor presiding, in wig 

and gown, and sitting on the woolsack, 

which appears like a pile of cushions. 

The House of Commons may be visited, 

perhaps, in the same evening, or else on 

the evening following. 

If the day be stormy, it may be advan- 
tageously spent in the British Museum, British Museum, 
which is open to the public on Mondays, 
Wednesdays, and Fridays: and the above- 
named objects may mostly be accomplish- 
ed on the morrow. 

April 2, Sat. — This day, if pleasant, 
may be profitably spent in visiting St. St Paul's. 
PauVs Church or Cathedral, and then 
in preparing for the Continent. At the 
banker's, arrangements may be made for 
correspondence ; and it would be well to 
take French gold enough to last you to 
Paris. If your bankers be Messrs. Baring Bankers. 
Brothers & Co., No. 8 Bishopsgate Within, 



OUTLINE TOUR LONDON. 



Somerset House. 



Mansion House. 



Exchange. 



Bank. 



or others in that vicinity, it will be con- 
venient to call upon them, in connection 
with visiting St. Paul's. Take an omnibus 
from Charing Cross, up the Strand, pass- 
ing Somerset House on the right, occupied 
by public offices, and King's College ad- 
joining it; passing also the churches of 
St. Mary -le- Strand and St. Clement's 
Dane, before reaching Temple - Bar, 
which is a gateway on the ancient limit 
between London and Westminster ; then 
continuing past St. Paul's Church, pro- 
ceed up Cheapside, by the church of St. 
Mary -le- Bow, the bells of which are 
known as " the Bow Bells, 1 ' almost in the 
centre of old London ; and beyond this 
you will see the Mansion House of the 
Lord Mayor on the right, the Royal Ex- 
change before you, with a statue of the 
Dnke of Wellington in front of it, and 
the Bank of England on your left, near 
which is the Union Bank, forming a 
great business centre, on the way to 
Bishopsgate-street, if there be occasion 
to go there, or to a banker's in that 
quarter. If not, turn back to St. PauVs, 
and, after gazing on the statues and ar- 
chitecture within, climb to the Whis- 
pering Gallery, and thence to the Upper, 
or Outer Gallery, from which, if the air 
chance to be clear, you will have a glo- 
rious view of London. The Library is 
of minor interest, but worth seeing. 
Then visit the Crypt beneath, and see 
Avhere rest the remains of England's 
latest heroes, her Nelson and Welling- 
ton. 

Then proceed to the office of the 
French Consul, and procure his vise to 
your passport, in crder to be ready for 
entering France. If this be near Lon- 
don Bridge, it will afford an opportu- 



OUTLINE TOUR LONDON. 79 

nity to see that structure, and the 
Monument near it, commemorating the Monument, 
great fire of 1666. You may then re- 
turn by steamboat on the Thames, from 
London Bridge to Hung erf ord Suspen- 
sion Bridge, which is near to Charing 
Cross, and affords at the same time a 
view of the river front of the Palace of 
Parliament. From the steamboat, after 
passing Southward Bridge, and Black- 
friars' Bridge, observe the Temple gar- Temple Gardens. 
dens, on the right, and the inns of the 
Temple within them, those famous seats 
of lawyers and courts. And just before 
reaching Waterloo Bridge you will see 
Somerset House and its terrace, rising 
proudly from the water. If both Houses 
of Parliament have already been visited, 
this evening may be spent in visiting 
any of the amusements or curiosities 
enumerated in Murray's London, pp. 
36-38. 

April 3, Sunday. — If you have not Church Service, 
already attended service in St. Paul's 
Church, and Westminster Abbey, it is 
recommended to divide the day between 
them ; otherwise, to attend service in 
any of the more interesting churches, 
among which may be named St. Mar- 
tin's-in-the-Fields ; the Temple Church,, 
remarkable for its music and its monu- 
ments ; St. Barnabas 1 Church, near the 
foot of Victoria Road in Chelsea, ren- 
dered notable by the vagaries there of 
the Eev. Mr. Bennett ; or the new 
church of St. Stephen's, in Rochester 
Row, Westminster, erected by the muni- 
ficence of the Hon. Miss Burdett Coutts. 
The poet and historian Milmau, now 
advanced in age, is 'Prebendary of West- 
minster. The Rev. Christopher Words- 
worth, D. D., one of the Canons of 



80 



OUTLINE TOUR LONDON. 



Westminster Abbey, is also an excellent 
preacher, and a prominent divine; and 
the Rev. Henry Melvill is one of the 
ablest and most popular preachers in the 
Church of England. Rev. Dr. dimming 

Eminent Preachers, is a favorite preacher of the Presbyterian 
denomination, and an able opponent of 
the Church of Rome. Her Majesty the 
Queen generally attends service in the 
chapel of St. James's Palace ; but some 
pains must usually be taken in order to 
procure admission. There will be even- 
ing service in various churches, in which 
the day may be suitably closed with acts 
of thanksgiving for safety and protection 
thus far on the way. 

April 4, Monday. — If you have accom- 

Museuni. plished the plans already proposed, it is 

still advisable to linger one day longer 
in London, to see the British Museum, 
which, for its treasures of science and art, 
especially of antiquities, may be ranked 
among the wonders of the world. It 
is sufficiently described in Murray's Lon- 
don, p. 149 ; with a ground plan of the 
first floor on p. 151. A like plan of the 
upper story is a desideratum. A day 
will barely suffice for a cursory examina- 
ation of this vast collection, aside from 
the Library, which can only be visited 
by means of a ticket or note from the 
Librarian, Sir Henry Ellis. Such ticket 
maybe easily procured by a card from 
our Ambassador, or Secretary of Lega- 
tion ; but this may well be deferred un- 
til after returning from the continent. 
And although it would be pleasant to 
visit the Zoological Gardens, the Tower 
and sundry other places, or indeed all 
London and its environs ; yet the writer 
would strongly advise to hasten south- 
ward, in order to finish Italy before the 



Zoological Gardens. 
Tower. 



OUTLINE TOUR LONDON TO HAVRE. 81 

season is too far advanced, and to see 
the rest of London after returning in the 
summer. It may be worth while to 
spend this evening in visiting the Pano- 
rama of Paris, at the Colosseum in Re- Colosseum, 
gent's Park, and thus anticipate a general 
view of the gay capital of France. 

April 5 Tues.-Set out for Havre, EouTE8 to Pae18 . 
by way ot the railroad to Southamp- Railway to South- 
ton ; starting from the Waterloo Station, ampton. 
south > of Waterloo Bridge. The object 
of taking this route is to see Havre, and 
more especially Rouen, on the way to 
Paris. If you prefer to omit these pla- 
ces, and proceed at once to Paris, the 
route by Dover and Calais is preferable ; 
or the Brighton route, by Newhaven 
and Dieppe, would lead to Paris by way 
of Rouen, and be a good one if well con- 
ducted; but on the whole, the writer 
would decidedly recommend the route 
here proposed, to those who travel for 
information. The time of starting from 
London may depend on the time when 
the steamer sails from Southampton, 
which is partly regulated by the state 
of the tide at Havre, in order to be able 
to enter that port. If the steamer do 
not sail until evening, you may stop at 
Winchester on the way, by leaving Lon- 
don in the morning. On leaving the 
Waterloo Station in Southwark, or ra- 
ther in Lambeth, as the railway passes 
above the roofs of the houses, you look 
down upon the gardens of Lambeth Lambeth Palace. 
Palace, which towers above you on the 
right ; this being the city residence of 
the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Rt. 
Rev. John Bird Sumner. Passing next 
Clapham and Wandsworth Commons on 
the left, and Wimbledon Park and Com- 
mon on the right, and after these the 
5 



82 



O UTLINE TOUR S O UTH A M l J TO N . 



Claremont 



Winchester. 



stations of Maiden and Kingston, you 
will soon come to Long Ditton, from 
which a short railway branches out on 
the right to Hampton Court, a famous 
royal palace. The next station is Esher : 
not far to the left of which is Clare- 
mont, the late residence of the exiled 
King of the French, Louis Philippe. 
From "Woking Heath there is a branch 
railway diverging on the left to Guild- 
ford ; and thence the Basingstoke Canal 
continues alongside the road on the 
right, nearly to Farnborough, where the 
road is crossed by another railway from 
Guildford northwest to Beading. From 
Basingstoke, the next prominent station, 
there is another branch northward to 
Eeading. After this you pass Lichfield 
and Popham Hill tunnels, and near the 
latter is Popham Beacon, on the left, 
460 feet high, affording a commanding 
view. 

After this you come to Winchester, a 
city well worth visiting if you have the 
time; otherwise it may be seen after 
returning from the Continent. On leav- 
ing it, look back, on the left hand, and 
you will have a glimpse of the Cathe- 
dral ; which is one of the finest in Eng- 
land, as this was once a royal city. 
Hursley, next, five miles beyond Win- 
chester, was once the property of 
Richard Cromwell ; and at Bishopstoke 
there are branch railways, on the right 
to Salisbury, and on the left to Gosport 
and Portsmouth. Observe the light 
color of the soil, caused by the chalk 
which it contains, indicating a calcareous 
formation extending eastward to Dover. 

You will probably reach Southampton 
in time to see something of the place, 
before finally going on board of the 



OUTLINE TOUR — HAVRE. 83 

steamboat for Havre. Observe espe- Southampton, 
dally the docks and ocean steamers, and 
the slender octagonal tower of St. Mi- 
chael's church, which serves as a land- 
mark to ships entering the harbor. One 
gate of the ancient fortifications re- 
mains, called Bargate, sculptured with 
the figures of Sir Bevis of Hampton and 
the giant Ascapaud, whom he is said to 
have slain. The Danish king Canute 
the Great once resided at this place; 
and here he is said to have rebuked the 
folly of his courtiers, by sitting on the 
shore and commanding the tide to rise 
no farther, in vain. On leaving South- 
ampton, you pass down the bay called 
Southampton Water, and have a distant 
view of Netley Abbey, a beautiful ruin 
on the left, half hidden by trees. On 
leaving the bay, you pass Calshot Castle 
on the right, and have the Isle of Wight 
before you, a visit to which should be 
deferred until the summer. On passing 
it, yon may perceive the turrets of Os- 
borne House on your right, the favorite 
summer residence of Queen Victoria. 
You now come to Spithead, the road- 
stead of Gosport and Portsmouth, where 
a fleet of British ships of war will often 
be seen at anchor, this being one of the 
most important stations of the British 
navy. And now you leave England for 
more sunny climes, and may expect to 
reach Havre, after a passage of ten or 
twelve hours, not without sea-sickness, 
if the channel be rough, for the short 
chopping seas of the channel are even 
more inducive to this than the broad 
Atlantic. On approaching Havre two Havre. 
lighthouses are seen on the left, on 
Cape la Here, a high chalky promon- 
tory : and between these and the city is 



84 



OUTLINE TOUR HAVRE. 



the hill D'lngowcitte, affording a com- 
manding view. The round tower on 
the left, as you enter the city, is named 
from Francis I., king of France, who 
founded this city in 1516. The best 
inns are the Hotel de VEurope, Eue de 
Paris, and Wheeler 's (English) Quai 
Notre Dame ; and the commissionaire, 
or agent of the hotel, will probably 
assist you in regard to passport, and 
examination of baggage at the Bouane 
or custom-house. 

Notre Dame. April 6, Wed.— Take a carriage 

and visit first the church of Notre Dame, 
in the Eue de Paris, which is the most 
prominent street in Havre, running 
northward from the Round Tower of 
Francis I. Follow this street to the 
Place Louis XVI. between the theatre 
and the Basin of Commerce ; and pass- 
ing out of the city by the gate DTngou- 
ville, where you will have a good spe- 
cimen of the surrounding fortifications, 
ascend the hill DTngouville on the 
north, and you will have a glorious 
view of the city, the country and the 
sea. Havre is chiefly remarkable for its 
artificial harbor excavated within the 
city, consisting of the Bassin du Roi, 
Bassin du Commerce, Bassin de la Barre, 
Port Neuf, and Avant Port, the last be- 

Ingouvilie. j n g at t h e entrance. To scour out the 

mud, which would otherwise be depo- 
sited at the entrance, by the current 
of the river Seine meeting the sea, a re- 
servoir is provided on the south side of 
the city, called Le Retenue de la Floride ; 
the water of which, let out by a sluice- 
way when the tide is low r , keeps the en- 
trance clear. Returning from D'lngou- 
ville, if there be time, you may pass 
around bv the Place du Commerce, on 



OUTLINE TOUR — ROUEN. 85 

the Quai tVAngoultiue, and crossing the 
Canal Yauban, visit the Citadel, in the Citadel, 
southeast part of the city, built by 
Richelieu, where the princes Conde, 
Conti, and Longueville, the leaders of 
the Fronde, were shut up by Cardinal 
Mazarin, in 1650; but they were re- 
leased when the Cardinal fell. As Havre 
has no antiquities, and few curiosities, 
one morning may suffice to see it ; and 
you may take the railroad train to Rouen, 
56 miles, on the afternoon of the same 
day. 

Leaving the station, or embarcadere, Railway to Rouen, 
ki the east part of Havre, you come first 
to Graville, a suburb of Havre, with its 
Norman Church ; then to Hartieurs, 4i 
miles; then to Beuzeville, 16 miles; and 
at Mirville. soon after, you pass a viaduct 
of 48 brick arches, the highest 106 feet 
high, over the Bolbec river, or brook. 
You come, after this, to Yvetot, 32 miles, Yvetot 
noted for its traditionary kings. Still 
passing over the high and fertile table- 
land of the Pays de Caux, you come to 
Barentin, 45 miles, and there pass over 
a curved viaduct of 27 arches, each 60 
feet span, and the highest 108 feet high, 
over the small river Austreberthe, which 
flows into the Seine. ISTest you pass a 
tunnel 1 mile and 3 furlongs in length, un- 
der the heights of Piccy-Po-ville, before 
reaching Mala/unay, 50 miles, whence 
there is a branch railroad northward to 
Dieppe. Another tunnel, nearly a mile 
long, under the suburbs of St. Hilaire, 
Beauvoisine, and Cauchoise, brings you 
to the Rouen station, in a hollow cut in Bora*. 
the chalky high ground, on the north 
side of the city. An omnibus or cab will 
take you to the Hotel d? Albion, Quai dn 
Havre, or to the Hdtel (FAngleterre, on 



86 OUTLINE TOUR ROUEN. 



Rouen Cathedral. 



the same Quai, bordering on the river 
Seine, or to the Hotel de Normandie, 
Eue du Bee ; these being among the best 
hotels in Rouen. On the way to the 
hotel, you may notice the Boulevards, 
a wide street, occupying the site of the 
ancient fortificat 
part of the city. 

April 7, Th. — Starting from the Quai 
du Havre, you may notice first the two 
bridges, the lower one a suspension 
bridge, and the upper one crossing the 
Seine at the foot of the Isle de la Croix, 
on which is a statue of Comeille, who 
was born here. There is also a statue of 
Boildieu, another native of Rouen, on 
the quay facing the Bourse. Observe the 
large Caserne, or barracks of St. Sever, 
in the suburb of that name, on the south 
side of the river. Then, after passing 
the theatre, turn up the Rue Grand Pont, 
and visit the Cathedral, noticing par- 
ticularly the tomb of Rollo in a chapel 
on the right, and the effigy of Richard 
Cceur de Lion, who was duke of Nor- 
mandy as well as king of England. It is 
in the Lady Chapel, in rear of the high 
altar. Then turn southward, by the 
south side of the Cathedral, and visit 
the Holies, built around a small square, 
and used as shops. Here once stood the 
palace de la Vielle Tour, where Prince 
Arthur is said to have been murdered 
by king John of England. Near the 
Halles, is the time-worn fountain of 
Lisieux, in the Rue de la Savonnerie, 
worth visiting for its quaint old sculp- 
ture. Next turn up the new street 
called Rue de la Republique, in rear of 
the cathedral, and visit the Church of 
St. Maclou, and the fountain at the 
north ansrle of this church, on the Rue 



OUTLINE TOUR — ROUEN. 8 

Damiette. Continue up this street to the 
beautiful Church of St. Ouen, which has St Ouen. 
one of the most splendid fronts in the 
world. Adjoining this, on the north, is 
the Hotel de Ville, or City Hall, which is Hotel de vnie. 
the old monastery of St. Ouen, modern- 
ized, and with a Corinthian front. It 
contains the Public Library, aud a mu- 
seum of pictures ; the latter being open 
to the public on Thursdays, but the for- 
mer not. 

Next, proceeding around the south side 
of the Church of St. Ouen, and along the 
Rue des Faulx, you will pass the Church 
of St. Vivien on the right, and come to 
the Fountain de la Croix de Pierre, at 
the carrefour, or crossway of St. Vivien, 
remarkable for its sculpture. South of 
this are the General Hospital, and the 
Caserne or barrack of Martainville, near 
the Field of Mars ; but a visit to them 
may well be dispensed with. From the 
Croix de Pierre, then, turn westward by 
the Rue Bourg-L'Abbe, and at the cross- 
ing the new street, you will observe the 
College on the right. Then turn up the 
new street, and visit the Musee aVAnti- Musee d'Antiquites. 
quites, Rue Poussin, in the ancient con- 
vent of Ste. Marie. Here you will see 
the autographs and seals of William the 
Conqueror, and kings Richard and John of 
England; and the ashes of the heart of 
Richard Cceur de Lion are here preserv- 
ed in a cinereal vial. You may next 
visit the Tour du Donjon, an old massive 
tower south westward, and then pass the 
Church of St. Godard,on the way south- 
ward to the Cour Boy ale and the Palais Palais de Justice. 
de Justice, which fronts westward on the 
new market. From the south side of 
this palace or court-house, once the Par- 
liament House of Normandy, a street 



88 



OUTLINE TOUR ROUEN. 



Joan of Arc. 



leads southward to La Grand Eue,in which 
Tour de Horologe. observe the Tour de la Grosse Horologe, 
or tower of the great clock, formerly 
called La Tour de Beffroi, an archway 
across the street, with an old clock and 
a fountain, the sculpture of which rep- 
resents Alphens and Arethusa. Follow 
La . Grand. Rue westward to the old 
market, and beyond this notice the 
house where Corneille was born, Rue 
de la Pie, No. 4. Then turn back, and 
southward to the Place de . la Pucelle, 
with its fountain, marking the place 
where Joan of Arc, the Maid of Orleans, 
was burnt at the stake, a martyr to pa- 
triotism and a victim of fanaticism. Ad- 
joining this square on the west is the 
Hotel de Bourgtheroude, entering the 
front gate of which, the walls facing 
on the interior court are ornamented 
with sculpture, representing the meeting 
of Francis I. and Henry VIII. of Eng- 
land, on the Field of the Cloth of Gold. 
From thence, passing the Church of St. 
Eloy, near by, you may return to the 
Quai du Havre ; and will have seen the 
chief curiosities of the ancient capital of 
Normandy, which has a population of 
100,000 souls. You may find a good col- 
lection of guide-books and maps at the 
shop of Le Brument, Quai de Paris, No. 
45 ; and should you be detained here on 
Sunday, there is English service in the 
Church of Ste. Marie la Petite, Rue des 
Bons Enfans, in the western part of the 
city. Still farther west are the Church 
of St. Gervais, the oldest in Rouen, and 
the Hotel Dieu, a hospital, with the 
Church of La Madeleine attached. 
Railway to Paris. April 8, Fr. — Leave Rouen for Paris, 

distant 87 miles. You start from the 
terminus or station in the Faubourg de 



OUTLINE TOUR — ItOUEN TO L'ARIS. 89 

St. Sever, on the south side of the Seine, 
and soon after, crossing the river, you 
pass under the hill of Tourville by a short 
tunnel, about 500 yards in length; on 
emerging from which, observe on the 
right the Pont de VArche, a bridge lead- 
ing to the town of that name. You next 
cross the Seine at Le Manoir, just above 
the confluence of the Eure, 15 miles from 
Rouen. Then, passing St. Pierre, and a 
short tunnel at Venables, and soon after 
this another, called La Rule, a mile long, 
you come next to Gaillon, 29 miles; Gafllon, 
north of which may be seen Chateau 
Gaillard, or "the Saucy Castle," a favor- 
ite resort of Richard Cceur de Lion, 5 or 
6 miles distant. Near Vernon, 37 miles, 
observe the extensive quarries in the hill- 
side on the left, having a cavernous ap- 
pearance. At Bonnieres, next, 44 miles, Bonnteres. 
you pass a tunnel nearly 1\ miles long, 
and emerge at Rolleboise. You next 
skirt the forest and pass the village of 
Rosny, 48 miles, near which on the left Rosny. 
is the Chateau de Sully, a plain building 
of red brick, once the residence of that 
great financier, and more recently of 
the Duchess de Berri. You next pass 
Mantes,' 52 miles, where William the Mantes. 
Conqueror was mortally injured after 
having burnt the town ; and then Meu- 
lan, 62 miles, with its old stone bridge. 
After this you come to Poissy, 70 miles, Poiasy. 
noted as the birth-place of St. Louis, 
and for the Conference of Poissy, be- 
tween the Protestant and Papal divines, 
in 1561. It is now the greatest cattle 
market in France. You next traverse 
the forest of St. Germain, in the midst st - Germain, 
of which is the station of Conflans, and 
at the end of it liaisons, 77 miles, near 
which on the left is the Chateau of La- 



90 



OUTLINE TOUR- 



PARIS. 

Hotels. 



Tuileries. 



Louvre. 



iitte, the banker. Between this and Paris 
the Seine is crossed three times by the 
railroad ; at Maisons, at Besons, and at 
Aznieres. Between the last two bridges, 
two railroads branch off sonthwestward, 
one to the palace of St. Germain, and 
the other to Versailles. At length, pass- 
ing the village of Clichy on the left, then 
crossing the outer fortifications, and then 
traversing two more tunnels under the 
Place d'Europe and several streets, you 
enter Paris by the quarter called Les 
Batignolles ; and may find excellent ac- 
commodations at the Hotel Meurice, or 
Hotel de Windsor, or Hotel de Wagram, 
all of which are very centrally situated, 
in the Kue de Rivoli. The Hotel Bristol, 
Place Vendome, and Lawson's Bedford 
Hotel, between Rue de la Madeleine and 
Rue de 1' Arcade, are highly recommend- 
ed by Galignani, whose JS T ew Paris Guide 
should be one of the stranger's first 
acquisitions. Any fraction of a day, after 
arriving, may be spent in studying the 
map of Paris, and the Guide-Book, and 
reconnoitring, especially around the 
Palace of the Tuileries, and the Place 
du Carrousel, the Chainps Elysees. Take 
the earliest opportunity of procuring the 
necessary vises to your passport ; which 
may be done through a commissionaire of 
the hotel, unless it be necessary to call 
at the American embassy in person.* 

April 9, Sat. — The first stormy week- 
day in Paris, if it be not a Monday, may 
be profitably spent in visiting the Gal- 
leries of the Louvre, which are open to 



* The writer's impression is, that the only vis£s which it is 
necessary to obtain in Paris, are those of the American Legation, 
and the Prefecture of Police ; but that if the Sardinian, Tuscan, 
Roman, and Neapolitan vises are obtained here, it will save th? 
necessity of procuring them in Marseilles. 



OUTLINE ion: — PARIS. 91 

strangers presenting their passports, on 
all the other week-days. But if the 
weather be pleasant, it should be devot- 
ed to some one section of the city, fin- 
ishing, if possible, that portion which is 
undertaken. It will be economy of time, 
if not of money, to take a carriage, 
cabriolet or small fiacre, and perhaps a 
valet de place, as a guide. If you have 
to visit the bankers, who reside chiefly 
in the northwestern division of the city, 
the day should be spent in this quarter ; 
and if your bankers be Messrs. Greene 
& Co., No. 26 Place St. Georges, you 
may proceed from the Rue de Rivoli by 
the Place Vendome, and see Napoleon's place Vendome. 
Column; then by the Boulevard des 
Italiens, and Rue Lafitte, to the Church 
of Notre Dame de Lorette, which should Notre Dame de Lo- 
be seen on the way. Messrs. Greene, or rette - 
other bankers, will be able perhaps to 
furnish you with permits to see various 
places in the city audits environs. From 
Place St. Georges, it will be well to con- 
tinue, northward, up to the heights of 
Montmartre, which afford a fine view of Montmartre. 
Paris. Returning, you should next visit 
the American Embassy, No. 11 Rue American Embassy. 
Verte or Penthievre, to have your pass- 
port vised by the Secretary of Legation, 
and you may be able to procure some val- ' 
uable permits or introductions there. 
You may then visit the Chapelle Expia- chapeile Expiatoire. 
toire, Rue d'Anjou St. Honore, erected 
on the spot where Louis XVI. and Marie 
Antoinette were buried, before their 
remains were removed to St. Denis. 
Thence you may visit the Church of La La Madeleine. 
Madeleine, and if it be not open, at least 
observe its sculptured doors and pedi- 
ments. Thence turning, by the Rue de 
la Concorde, into the Rue rlu Faubourg 



92 



OUTLINE TOUR PAKIS. 



St. Honore, and proceeding westward, 

Elysee. you soon come to the Palais de V 'My see 

Bourbon, otherwise called de V Elysee 
National, which was occupied by Na- 
poleon after his return from Elba, and 
where he last slept in Paris, after the 
battle of Waterloo. The interior is well 
worth visiting, but probably it will be 
impossible to obtain permission. You 
may then proceed by the Avenue des 
Champs Elysees to the Barriere de 

Arc de Triomphe. Neuilly, and the Are de Triomphe de 
VEtoile, begun by Napoleon, and com- 
pleted by Louis Philippe. Climb this 
magnificent arch, and you will have a 
splendid view of Paris and its western 
environs. Return by way of the Champs 

Place de la Concorde. Elysees, the Place de la Concorde with 
its Egyptian Obelisk, and the Jardin des 
Tuileries ; observing from the Place de 
la Concorde the Church of La Madeleine 
on the north, and the Legislative Palace, 
or Palais deV 'Assemble >e Rationale on the 
south, beyond the Pont de la Concorde, 
across the Seine. You may dine at the 
Hotel, or at one of the restaurants in 
the Palais Royal, otherwise called Palais 
National ; Very's, or Les Trois Freres. — 
[See Appendix] 
April 10, Sun. — Attend high mass, 

Notre Dame. ' at 10 o'clock, in the Cathedral of Notre 
Dame, passing the Palace of the Tuile- 
ries, the Gallery of the Louvre, and the 
Palace of the Louvre, on the way. The 

Bridges. bridge opposite the Tuileries is the Pont 

National; the next above it is the Pont 
du Carrousel; the next the Pont des 
Arts ; and the bridge across the foot of 
the He de la Cite, is the Pont Neuf, on 
the lower side of which is an equestrian 
statue of Henry IV. You may also pass 
by the Pont an Change, at the farther 



Legislative Palace. 



OUTLINE TOUR — PARIS. 93 

end of which is the Palais de Justice, and 
cross over the Pont Notre Dame, or over 
the Pont oVArcole beyond this,near which 
is the Hotel de Ville, on the way to 
the" Cathedral. In rear of the Cathe- 
dral, at the east end of the He de la Cite, 
the Pont de la Cite leads over to the He 
de St. Louis ; and the Pont Louis Phil- 
ippe, leads across the point of the latter 
island, to the north shore. This bridge 
may be crossed in returning. The Prot- English Chapels. 
estant service should not be wholly neg- 
lected, even in Paris; and may be at- 
tended p. m. at the English Episcopal 
Church, No. 5 Rue d'Aguesseau, Fau- 
bourg St. Honore, or at the English Em- 
bassy, or at the Marboeuf Chapel; or 
there are various other Protestant ser- 
vices, as indicated by the Guide-Book, 
and in Galignani's Messenger, which 
should be consulted daily while in Paris. 
April 11, M011. — This day, if stor- 
my, should be devoted to correspond- 
ence and studying the map and guide- 
book ; but if pleasant, may be well spent 
in visiting the eastern part of the city, 
and Pere la Chaise. Walk to the Bou- Boulevards. 
levard des Italiens, and there take an 
omnibus around the Boulevards east- 
ward, observing in passing, the arches of 
St. Denis and St. Martin, relics of the 
ancient fortifications, which were levelled 
to form the Boulevards. Beyond these 
arches, on the left, is the beautiful foun- 
tain called Le Chateau WEau. Contin- 
uing around southward by the Boule- 
vards, you come at length' to the Place Place de la Bastille. 
de la Bastille, where once stood the 
famous prison of that name ; but in its 
place now stands the Colonne de Juillet, 
(Column of July,) commemorating the 
Revolution of 1830. The Canal de St. 



04 



Of! LINE TOUR PARIS. 



Lafayette's Tomb. 



Fere la Chaise. 



Abbatoirs. 



Boulevards. 



Martin runs directly beneath it, into the 
basin of the canal, between this and the 
Seine. Here you will save time by 
taking a cabriolet, in order to visit the 
tomb of La Fayette, the patriot of two 
worlds, in the garden of the Convent of 
the Dames des Sacres Cceurs, Kue de 
Piepus, No. 15 ; the shortest way being- 
eastward from the Place de la Bastille, 
by the Rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, 
nearly to the Place du Trdne. You 
may next pass out by the Barriere du 
TrOne, and following the exterior Bou- 
levards, northward, outside of the city 
wall, visit the famous cemetery of Plre 
la Chaise; dismissing the carriage on 
arriving there. A skeleton map of this 
cemetery will be found in Galignani's 
Guide ; a larger map is still a desidera- 
tum. Observe the monuments of Abe- 
lard and Eloise, Casimir Perier, General 
Gobert, the Duke Decres, Marshals Le- 
febvre and Massena, and General Foy, 
as among the more remarkable. Re- 
turning through the Barriere d' Ann ay, 
and passing between the prison called 
the Nouveau Bicttre, on the left, and 
the Prison des Jeunes Detenus, or house 
of detention for juvenile offenders, op- 
posite to it, turn to the right by the Rue 
St. Maur, the next street, and visit the 
Abattoir de Popincourt, or Menilmon- 
taut, the largest of the five slaughter- 
houses constructed by order of Napoleon 
for the accommodation of the city. It 
will be the most pleasant to return by 
the way of the Boulevards ; and a walk 
in the Palais Royal may occupy the 
evening. 

April 12, Tues. — Visit the Bibli- 
otheque Rationale, or National Library, 
Rue Richelieu, No. 58, in the building 



OUTLINE TOU 



PARIS. 0." 



which was once the palace of Cardinal 
Mazarin; passing the fountain of Mo- Fountain Moiiire. 
lure, so named from his statue, in the 
same street, on the way. This library, Bibiiothfcque Natio- 
the largest in the world, containing nale - 

800,000 printed volumes, is only open 
to visitors on Tuesdays and Fridays, 
from 10 o'clock to 3 ; but the reading 
room, and the rooms of medals, engrav- 
ings, charts, &c. are open every day. 
Observe in the library a pair of 12 feet 
copper globes, brought from Venice ; and 
a Psalter, printed atMentz by Faust and 
Schoeffer, in 1457, being the first book 
printed with a date. In the cabinet of 
medals, observe the so called shields of 
Scipio and Hannibal ; and the black 
Babylonian marble carved with cunei- 
form characters. In the collection of K* r * B « ok3 - 
manuscripts are those of Galileo, and 
Feneloms Telemachus, the Prayer book 
of St. Louis, and another which belonged 
successively to Charles V., Charles IX., 
and Henry VII., cand bears their signa- 
tures. Among the engravings are 90,000 
portraits, and 300,000 maps, charts, 
views, &c. Observe, lastly, in the Gal- 
lery of ancient sculpture, the celebrated 
Zodiac ofjDenderah,bYOUght from Egypt, 
and supposed to have formed the ceiling 
of a temple. Opposite to the northern 
part of the National Library, is the Place 
Richelieu, containing the fountain of Ri- 
chelieu, built on the site of the former 
French Opera House, which was de- 
molished in consequence of the assassi- 
nation there of the Duke de Berri in 
1820. 

From the Library, proceed to visit La Bourse. 
Bourse, or the Exchange, in the Rue 
Yivienne, not far distant. Observe the 
four statues at the corners, representing 



90 OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. 

Commerce, Industry, Agriculture, and 
Navigation ; and the monochrome draw- 
ings on the ceiling within having the full 
effect of bass-reliefs. It is desirable to 
reach the Exchange before 3 o'clock, and 
witness the scene of confusion and ex- 
citement. Close to this is the office of 
Messrs. Livingston, where a register is 
kept of Americans visiting Paris; and 
this will be a favorable time to visit it. 
Proceeding next down the Eue Notre 
Dame des Yictoires, in rear of the Ex- 
change, to the Place des Victoires, with 
its statue of Louis XIV., and then inclin- 

General Post-Office, ing to the left, you may visit the Hotel 
des Posies, or General Post-Office, Rue 
Jean Jaques Rousseau ; and after this the 
church of St. Eustache, opposite to the 
Holies Centrales, southeast of which is 

Marche des Innoeens. Marche des Innoccns, the most general 
market in Paris. You may return by 

Halle an Ble. wa J °f the Halle an Ble, or wheat-hall, 

to the Palais Royal, or to your hotel, to 
dine ; and occupy the evening with a 
stroll in the Boulevards. 

April 13, Wed. — Visit the natio- 

Les Gobelins. nal manufactory des Gobelins, of ta- 

pestry and carpets, Rue Mouffetard, No. 
270, in the southeastern extremity of 
the city ; it being open to strangers, on 
presentation of their passports, on Wed- 
nesdays and Saturdays. It will be plea- 
sant if with a party, to take a carriage; 
otherwise omnibuses may be found go- 
ing there, by proper inquiry. As this 
establishment is not open till 1 or 2 
o'clock, you may visit the Hotel de 

Hotel de ciuny. Cluny, connected with the ancient Ro- 

man Palais des Thermes, Rue des Ma- 
thurens, No. 14; as also the College of 

Sorbonnc. La Sorbonne, and the College of France 

opposite to it, Rue St. Jaques, south of 



OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. 9/ 

the He de la Cite ; and then, turning by 
the Rue St Etienne, visit the Pantheon Pantheon 
or church of St.Genevievc, and the library 
of St. Genevieve on the north of it- as 
also the church of St. Etienne du Mont 
east of these, and the Polytechnic School P/J . f . . a v 
northeast of this last, or as many of these PoI>techmc Scho ° l 
objects as the time will permit,- before 
proceeding to the Gobelin manufactory 
the tapestries of which resemble exqui- 
site oil paintings. Returning from this 
there may be time to visit the Morgue * r 
or dead-house, on the He de la Cite, west 0rgUe ' 
ot .Notre Dame; and it may not be too 
late to revisit Notre Dame itself, and by NotreIW 
applying at the sacristy, to see the . 
church plate and the coronation robes of 
]N apoleon I. 

mam^rt' Zfc™* ^ P?rcelain E^don to Sevrea 

manufactory at Sevres, which is open 

to strangers, from 11 o'clock to 4, on 

lhursdays alone, without a special 

ticket or permit from the Minister of 

Commerce. The best conveyance is by 

the Versailles Railroad, northern route, 
starting from the station, No. 122 Rue 
St. Lazare, and retracing the way to- 
wards Rouen, until after passing Clichv 
and the bridge at Aznieres. You then 
turn to the left, on the branch road to 
Versailles, and proceed southwestward 
by Courbevoie, Puteaux, Suresnes, and 
St Cloud, to Sevres. The high fort seen 
at first on the left and afterwards on the 
right, is Monte Valerien, opposite to Su- 
resnes. On the left of Suresnes, across 
the fe eme , is seen the Pois de Boulogne, Bois de Bou^n* 
famous for the duels fought there; and 
the village of Boulogne is opposite to 
ot. Cloud. The process of manufactur- 
ing porcelain at Sevres is rarely shown 
to visitors, and only by special permis- 



98 



OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. 



St. Cloud. 



Conservatoire des 
Arts, etc. 



sion ; but the exhibition of porcelain is 
alone worth the visit. 

On leaving Sevres, you may easily 
walk back to St. Cloud, or else procure 
conveyance thither, and visit the Park 
of St. Cloud, together with the Palace, 
if visitors be admitted. This was a 
favorite resort of Napoleon, the country 
residence of Louis Philippe, and the sum- 
mer residence of the present Emperor, 
when President, as it will doubtless con- 
tinue to be. After returning by the 
same railroad to the station in Paris, 
there may be time to take a carriage and 
visit the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 
Rue St. Martin, No. 224, which is open 
gratuitously to the public on Sunda} T s 
and Thursdays from 10 o'clock to 4, and 
contains numerous models of machines ; 
St. Vincent de Paul, and after this the church of St. Vincent de 
Paul, Place La Payette, in the northeast- 
ern part of the city, and the stations of the 
northern Calais, and the eastern or Stras- 
bourg railroads, which are in the same 
neighborhood. 

April 15, Fr. — Spend the morn- 
ing in the Gallery of the Louvre until 
12 or 1 o'clock; which will enable you 
to look through the long Gallery of 
Paintings, or else in visiting Notre Dame, 
if it has not already been seen suffi- 
ciently; then visit the Jardin des Plants, 
with its Menagerie and Museums of Com-- 
parative Anatomy, Zoology, Botany, and 
Mineralogy, which are open to the public 
on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 2 to 5 
o'clock, p. m. They are in the south- 
eastern part of the city, bordering on the 
Seine; and in reaching them along the 
margin of the river, you pass the Halle 
aux Vins, which is not a single hall, but 
as it were a village, devoted to the stor- 



Garden of Plants. 



Halle aux Yins. 



OUTLINE TOUR — J'Aitls. 99 

age of wine. Returning, you may per- 
haps see La Sainte Chapelle attached to 
the Palais de Justice, on the lie de la 
Cite ; or you may cross the He de St. 
Louis, by the Pont de la Tournelle, and 
again observe the Hotel de Ville, on the 
way. Near the Hotel de Yille, west- 
ward, is the fountain of the Place du Place du Chateiet. 
Chatelet, fronting the Pont au Change ; 
and northeast of this, in the Rue de 
Rivoli, west of the Rue St. Martin, is 
the lofty tower of St. Jacques de la Bou- 
cher 'ie, the relic of a Gothic church of that 
name, which was demolished in 1789. 
Or if the group of objects allotted for 
Wednesday morning were not all seen, 
there may be time to see the remainder 
now. 

April 16, Sat. — Cross the Pont des L'institute de France. 
Arts, and observe the Palace of tlic 
Xational Institute, fronting this bridge, 
with the Mint east of it ; and the Palace Beaux Arts. 
or School of the Fine Arts on the Quai 
Malaquais west of it, which is accessible 
t<> strangers, and worth seeing. Then, 
taking the Abbey Church of St. Germain St, Germain des Pres. 
des Pres on the route, visit the Luxem- The Luxembourg. 
bourg Palace, the gallery of paintings in 
which is open to strangers with pass- 
ports, on all days except Mondays, by 
applying to the porter's lodge, on the 
east side. It is a fine collection of living 
artists. Observe also the statues in the 
garden, south of the palace ; and beyond 
this, southward is the Observatory, which, Observatory. 
if visited at all, should be seen now. 
South of this, and near the BarriCre 
d'Arcneil, is the entrance to the Cata- Catacombs. 
combs, which extend under this part of 
the city. From the Observatory it will 
be easy to visit the church of the Vol Valde Grace. 
de Grace, Rue St. Jaques, not far distant. 

LofC. 



100 



OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. 



Hotel des Invalides. 



Champ de Mars. 



Artesian Well. 



Palais de Legion 
d'Honneur. 



Ste. Clotilde. 



"Musee d'Artillerie. 



Church of St. Eoch. 



northeastward. Here was once a con- 
vent, favored by royalty, but it is now a 
military hospital, in the court of which 
are statues of the celebrated surgeons, 
Larrey and Broussais. Returning from 
these objects, visit the church of St. Sul- 
pice, with its fountain ; and thence pro- 
ceed to the Hotel des Invalides, where 
rest the remains of Napoleon; and thence 
to the Ecole Militaire and Champ de 
Mars, in the extreme western part of 
the city, south of the Seine. From 
thence turn southward and visit the Ar- 
tesian Well in the Abattoir of Crenelle ; 
which was bored to the depth of 1800 
feet, and from which the water rises 112 
feet above the ground. You may return 
by way of the Palais de V Assemblee Ra- 
tionale, and perhaps be admitted to see 
the Hall of the Representatives, which 
much resembles our own at Washing- 
ton. Continuing eastward, along the 
Quai d'Orsay, you will pass the Palace 
of tli e Legion of Honor, and the Palais 
d'Orsay, the latter being occupied for 
public offices. There is a beautiful new 
church in this part of the city, the 
church of Ste. Clotilde in the Place Belle 
Chasse, built in Gothic style, which 
should be visited in this connection ; and 
east of this is the Museum of Artillery , 
in the same court with the church of 
St. Thomas d)Aquin, both of which are 
worth seeing. 

April 17, Sun. — Attend high mass 
at the Church of St. Eoch, No. 296 Rue 
St. Honore, north of the Tuileries. This, 
though not the handsomest, is said to be 
the richest church in Paris, containing 
some very beautiful paintings, especially 
in its rear chapels; and the music there 
is remarkably fine. In the afternoon 



OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. 101 

attend some Protestant service, as that Protestant Chapels. 

of the Chapel Marboeuj] Avenue or Alle 
Marboeuf, No. 10 bis, near the upper end 
of the Champs Elysees. Or if you prefer 
attending a French Protestant service, 
it may be found at the Oratoire, Rue St. 
Honore, near the palace of the Louvre 
on the north. Service is said to begin 
here at half past 12 o'clock, and the 
eloquent M. Coquerel is one of the 
ministers. 

April 18, Mon. — If it be stormy, 
finish correspondence, and make prepa- 
rations for leaving Paris. But if plea- Excursion to Ver- 
sant, visit the Palace of Versailles; sailles. 

which, with its grounds and subordinate 
palaces, should occupy the whole day. 
Take the railroad again by way of St. 
Cloud and Sevres ; and endeavor to 
reach the city of Versailles before 11 
o'clock, at which hour the palace is open 
to the public on all days except Thurs- 
days and Fridays ; and on those days it 
is open to strangers presenting their « 

passports. It is advisable, on arriving 
there, to take a guide or -valet de place ; 
and if you do not speak French, one may 
be found who can speak English. Besides 
the galleries of painting and sculpture, 
you will visit the chapel and theatre 
which form a part of this magnificent 
palace; as also the private rooms of 
Kings Louis XIV., Louis XV., and Louis 
XVI., and Queen Marie Antoinette. 
After this, do not fail to visit the Great 
and Little Trianon, and the coach house 
containing the royal carriages, and the 
Swiss chalet and grotto of Marie Antoi- 
nette ; and you may return by way 
of the Bassin de Neptune ; and then 
take the southern railroad by Meudon, 
if it be not too late, entering Paris in 



102 



OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. 



Museums of 
Louvre. 



that case from the southwest, near the 
cemetery du Mont Parnasse. 

April 19, Tues. — Finish visiting the 
the Museums of the Louvre, including its 
galleries of paintings, if they have not 
already been visited in unpleasant wea- 
ther. The paintings occupy not only the 
long gallery between the Tuileries and 
the Louvre, but the upper story, in part, 
of the south and east sides of the quad- 
rangle, or palace, of the Louvre ; and the 
lower story of the same portion is occu- 
pied by antique statues and plaster casts; 
while an inner gallery above, on the south 
side, is devoted to Tuscan and Egyptian 
antiquities, and one room is set apart for 
enamels. On the north side of the quad- 
rangle are a gallery of engravings and 
naval curiosities above, and a gallery of 
ISTinevite sculpture below, including two 
winged bulls, like those in the British 
Museum. It maybe worth while to visit 
the old Church of St. Germain VAuxer- 
rois, near the Louvre, on the east, the 
bell of which first tolled as the signal for 
the massacre of St. Bartholomew's eve, 
in 1572. 

We have now named the principal ob- 
jects of interest to the stranger in the 
city of Paris, and given the order in 
which, perhaps, they may be seen with 
the greatest economy of time : referring 
for full accounts of them to the larger 
guide-books. It may be advisable to visit 
Vincennes. Vincennes and St. Denis, as also St. Ger- 

main, Neuilly, and Meudon ; but if the 
traveller's time is limited, perhaps this 
would be done at the expense of still 
more interesting objects farther onward 
in the tour. It* more has heen allotted 
in this schedule than the time would 
suffice to accomplish, this also would be 



OUTLINE TOUR — FONTAINEBLEAU. 103 

a reason for making a longer stay in 
Paris. But, in order to accomplish what 
is here proposed as a summer's tour, it 
will be necessary to bid farewell even to 
the allurements and attractious of Paris 
and hasten on the way. 

April 20, TT.— Leave Paris by an early 
tram for Fontainebleau, 38 miles ; start- 
ing from the station at the foot of Rue 
de Lyon, in the southeastern part of the 
city ; close by which, on the left, is the 
Prison of La Mmelle Force. After 
passing the outer fortifications, you soon 
come to Charenton, and there cross the 
river Marne, just above its junction with 
the Seine, which you still keep on the 
right hand. The detached fort now seen 
on the left, is called Chateau Gaillard, 
near the hamlet of Maisons. You come 
next to Villeneuve, 9± miles : and, after 
passing Montgeron and Brunoy, 14 miles, 
you have the forest of Senart on your 
right until beyond the village of Quincy. 
Passing next Combs-la- Ville ; then Lien- 
saint, 19 miles, and Oesson, 23i miles Fontaine bieau. 
you come to Melun, 28 miles, the ancient 
^lelodunum. Before reaching Drolle, the 
forest of Fontainebleau commences on the 
nght^ and it only remains to pass Bois- 
le-Roi, 32 miles, before reaching the sta- 
tion of Fontainebleau. An omnibus will 
be ready to carry you to the city, of 
which the palace forms a part, a mile 
distant or farther from the railroad ; and 
you will find accommodations at the 
Hotel de V Aigle-Noir, or the Hotel de 
France, both fronting the palace, or at 
la Poste, which is also well recom- 
mended. 

Visit first the Palace of Fontainebleau, 
observing particularly the Cour du Che- 
ral Blanc, where Napoleon took leave of 



104 



OUTLINE TOUR PARIS TO LYONS. 



ROUTE to ITALY. 
Railway to Chalons. 



Monterau. 



Sens. 



his old guard, celebrated in the painting 
and engraving called " Les Adieux de 
Fontainebleau ; " and also the Salle du 
Travail, still containing the very table 
at which Napoleon signed his abdication 
before his departure for the Island of 
Elba. Observe also the rooms in which 
Napoleon kept Charles IV. of Spain, a 
prisoner for twenty-four days, in 1808, 
and Pope Pius VII. for eighteen months, 
in 1812-14; and the Galerie des Cerfs, 
where Queen Christina of Sweden, when 
residing here, caused the murder of her 
secretary Monaldeschi, in 1657. Then 
walk in the gardens, and observe JOEtang, 
a large pond well stocked with fish. After 
this, or after dinner, take a drive in the 
forest, visiting first the Parquet du Roi, 
a splendid course or promenade west of 
the city ; and then taking the old high- 
way, or grande route, to Paris, as far 
as the Carre/our de la Croix du Grand 
Veneur, and thence turning northeast- 
ward to the Carre/our de la Belle Croix, 
near which is the Grotte au Cristeaux; 
returning by la Chtne de St. Louis, on 
Mont Chauvet, and passing the JVid de 
VAigle. 

April 21, Th. — Take the first train of 
cars for Chalons-sur-Sadne, so called to 
distinguish itfrom Chalons-on-the-Marne, 
the distance being 202 miles from Fon- 
tainebleau by railroad. The first place of 
note on the way is Monterau, 13 miles, 
where Napoleon gained a victory over 
the Allies, February 18th, 1814, driving 
them out of the town by his cuirassiers, 
and by a battery on the heights of Sur- 
ville, on the north. They blew up the 
bridge over the Yonne, and thus checked 
his pursuit towards Sens, which is the 
next considerable town on our way, 33 



OUTLINE TOUR CHALONS-SUK-SAONE. 105 

miles from Fontainebleau, with a cathedral, 
to which Thomas a Becket fled from the 
wrath of Henry II. of England, in 1164. 
After this you pass Villeneuve-sur-Yonne, 
42 miles; thenjirigny, 54 miles; Laroche, 
60 miles, and St. Florentin, 71 miles, a 
pretty town at the junction of the Ar- 
mance and Armancon. You then pass 
Tonnerre, 86 miles;* then Ancy-le- 
Franc, which contains the chateau of 
Louvois, prime minister of Louis XIV. ; 
then Nuits-St.-Ravier, 104 miles; then 
Moutbard, 115 miles, once the residence 
of Buffon, the naturalist ; then Verrey, 
137 miles; and the fourth station beyond 
this is Dijon, formerly the capital of the Dijon. 
Duchy of Burgundy, 159 miles from Fon- 
tainebleau, orl 9 6 from Paris. This place 
is worth stopping to see, if you reach it 
before dark, and if it will not cause the 
loss of a day at Chalons, waiting for the 
steamboat to Lyons. You may stop for 
the night at the Hotel de la Cloche ; and 
should see the Cathedral, formerly called 
the Fleche de St. Benigne, with its lofty 
wooden spire, the Church of Notre Dame, 
of the purest Gothic, and the old palace 
of the Dukes of Burgundy, which is now 
used for the museum and public offices. 
The hills both north and south of Dijon 
are the range called Cote d'Or, noted for 
their rich vineyards, and accordingly this 
is the seat of the Burgundy wine trade. 
April 22, Ft. — Leave Dijon by the 
earliest train, so as to reach Chalons in 
time for the steamboat, and pass JS r uit$, 
14 miles ; then Beaune, 23 miles, the 
birthplace of Monge, the geometer; then 

* Between Tonnerre and Dijon there is a tunnel 2i miles 
loner, but the writer does not recollect its location more pre- 

eisi'ly. 

6 



106 



OUTLINE TOUR LYONS. 



Ghagny, 23 miles, and soon yon arrive 
Chalons. at Chalons-sur-Sadne, 43 miles from Di- 

jon, or 239 from Paris. It is the ancient 
Cabillonum, and contains a cathedral. 
Here yon take a steamboat ; the distance 
to Lyons being about 100 miles, and the 
time required about eight hours ; and, on 
leaving Chalons, pass the mouth of the 
Canal du Centre on the right, with a 
basin, or dock, for barges entering or 
quitting it. You next pass Tour?ius, on 
the right, with a wooden bridge of five 
arches over the Saone, and come to an- 
other bridge at Fleurville, which is on 
Ma?011, the left bank. Magon next, on the right 

bank, the birthplace of Lamartine, has a 
bridge of thirteen arches ; and there are 
suspension bridges at St. Eomain and 
Belleville, with several common bridges, 
before reaching Trevoux, on the left bank, 
with its round tower and ruined castle. 
It was the capital of the principality of 
Domoes, and only tributary to the kings 
of France, until 1762. You now come 
to the richly wooded heights called Mont 
d'Or, and pass Neumlle on the left, with 
its suspension bridge ; and after this Cou- 
son, opposite to which is La Roche 
Taillee on the left bank, so called because 
this rock was cut through, by Agrippa, 
for the passage of a great Roman high- 
1/lleBarbe. way. You come next to Vile Baroe, 

the favorite retreat of Charlemagne, with 
a kind of watch-tower at the upper end 
of the island, from which, it is said, the 
emperor surveyed his Paladins marching 
by on the shore, and with a suspension 
bridge on each side. Below this is an 
antique castle, on the left bank, sur- 
mounted by a lofty tower, called La 
Tour de la Belle Allemande, from a tra- 
dition of a German girl being immured 



OUTLINE TOUR LYONS. 107 

in it, while her lover wae slim up in Lyons 
Pierre Seise, a prison on a high rock, on 
the right bank, further down, and now 
within the suburbs of Lyons. The story 
is, that he escaped by leaping into the 
Saone, but was shot while swimming 
across it. And now, between lofty and 
rocky banks, you enter the city of Lyons, 
and will find rest at the Hotel cle Pro- 
vence et des Ambassadeurs, Place de la 
Charite; or Hotel d> Univers, Eue de 
Bourbon ; or Hotel de Pome, Place St. 
Jean, near the Cathedral. 

April 23, Sat.— From the Cathedral, 
passing by the Palais de Justice, pre- 
senting a fine Corinthian 'front ; ascend 
the Height of Fourvieres, passing in rear 
of the huge, straggling hospital of Anti- 
quailles, occupying the site of the ancient 
Roman palace, in which Claudius and 
Caligula were born, and visit the Church 
of Xotre Dame de Fourvieres, remark- 
able for its votive offerings, 4,000 in num- 
ber, to the image of the Virgin Mary 
here, which is supposed by the people to 
have wrought divers miracles, and to 
have preserved Lyons from the cholera. 
Close beside this church is a tower, or 
Observatory, rising 630 feet above the 
level of the Saone, by climbing which 
you will have a splendid panorama of 
Lyons and its environs. In the north- 
west, you may see, by the help of a tele- 
scope, some remains of an ancient Roman 
"(jueduct; on the north is the suburb 
of La Croix Pousse, occupying the high 
ground between the Sadne and the Rhone, 
with a large convent, and a Garden of 
Plants ; and in the east, if the air be 
clear, you may not only behold the Rhone 
meandering on its way from Geneva, but 
Mont Blanc itself is vis'ible on the horizon. 



108 OUTLINE TOUR LYONS. 

nearly 100 miles distant. Fourvilres is 
so named from the Forum Vetus, which 
was built by the emperor Trajan; and 
the keeper of the Observatory will point 
out to you the various objects visible from 
this remarkable height. Thence, if not 
pressed for time, descend circuitously by 
the Cemetery of Loyasse, and the Fort of 
Loyasse near by it, and, turning eastward, 
skirting the Saone, you will pass the 
Pierre Seise, already referred to in the 
suburbs of Vaise, once the site of the 
archbishop's castle. 

Next cross the Pont de Nemours, and 
visit the Church of St. Nizier east of it, 
"a splendid example of the flamboyant 
Gothic." Then turning northward, by 
the Place St. Pierre, visit the Place des 
Terreaux, where Cinq Mars and De Thou 
were executed for conspiring against the 
Cardinal Eichelieu, and where the guillo- 
tine stood in 1794. On the south side of 
Museum. this square is the Museum, or Palais des 

Beaux Arts, including a collection of An- 
tiquities, a Picture Gallery, a Museum of 
Natural History, and a Public Library. 
On the east side of the Place des Ter- 
reaux is the Hotel de Ville, or City Hall, 
in the vestibule of which observe two 
gigantic statues, representing the two 
rivers, Le Rhone resembling Neptune, 
and La Saone a sea-nymph. Behind this 
building is the Theatre; passing which, 
cross the Rhone, by the Pont Moraud, 
to the Place Louis XVI., in the suburb 
called Les Brotteaux ; then turn south- 
ward, by the new Church des Brotteaux, 
and visit the Monumental Chapel near 
it, in the form of a pyramid, erected in 
1821, to the memory of the victims, or 
martyrs, as they are called, of the first 
revolution, who were here shot down. 



OUTLINE Toil: LYONS. 

to the number of 2,100, by the orders of 
the infamous Collot d'Herbois and his 
Associates, after Lyons was taken by the 
republicans, or rather the Terrorists, in 
1793. The victims were tied to ropes, 
and shot down, sixty at a time: hence 
this massacre is known as the fusillades. 
Then, crossing the Pont de la Guillo- 
tiere, observe, facing you on the right, 
the hospital called Hotel Dieu, with its 
extended front, said to be the richest 
hospital in the world; and on your left, 
the Hospice de la Charite. vieing with 
the preceding. Proceed westward to the 
Place Bellecour, and observe there the 
statue of Louis XIV., which has been 
rebuilt since Lvons was nearly destroyed 
by the Terrorists, in 1793-4. You will 
now have seen the best part of the city ; 
but may turn southward, and visit the 
Place Louis XVIII., the Oours Napo- 
leon, extending across from river to river, 
and the Gave de Perraclie; or it will be 
more interesting to visit one of the silk 
weavers, who are so numerous, and wit- 
ness the process of weaving figured silk 
in a Jacquard loom. 

You have now the option of reaching Routes to Italy. 
Italy by way of Geneva and the Simplon, 
or by way of Mont Cenis and Turin, or 
by way of the Ehone and Marseilles. 
The choice undoubtedly lies between the 
two latter ; and Turin is Avell worth visit- 
ing, although the ride over Mont Cenis 
at this season may be severely cold. But, 
on the whole, the writer would recom- 
mend to continue down the Rhone, 
which he thinks more picturesque and 
interesting than it is generally represent- 
ed to be, and so to visit Avignon, N ismes, 
Aries, and Marseilles, instead of Turin; 
and for mountain scenery, enough of it 



109 



110 



OUTLINE TOUR LYONS. 



may be had at a warmer season. This 
will be doing better justice to France ; 
and will make an easier route to Genoa, 
if not a pleasanter, than that by way of 
Turin. Here, at least, we will proceed 
by way of Marseilles. 

April 24, Sunday. — Attend the English 
Church service in the Chapelle Euin- 
gelique, No. 36, Eue de l'Arbre section, 
and the Eomish service at the Cathedral 
of St. John Baptist, near the west end of 
the Pont de Tilsit. Perhaps it will not 
be desecrating the Sabbath to visit the 

St. Iren6e. Church of St. Irenee, in the Faubourg 

St. Irenee, the western part of the city. 
It is a plain, modern building, but occu- 
pies the spot where Ireeneus, the second 
bishop of Lyons, suffered martyrdom : 
and in the ancient crypt beneath it, 
where Poly carp is said to have once 
preached, is a well which once over- 
flowed with the blood of 9,000 martyrs, 
slain by order of Septimius Severus, 
a. d. 202, and a recess is filled with their 
bones. The Fort St. Irenee is not far 
distant from this church. It may be 
proper also to visit the Church of the 
Abbey of Ainay, east of the Pont d'Ainay, 
which is next below the Pont de Tilsit. 
Beneath the sacristy of this church is an 
ancient dungeon, where PotJiinus, the first 
bishop of Lyons, and the heroic Blandina 
were imprisoned before their martyrdom, 
in the time of Marcus Aurelius, a. d. 177. 
Here, it is supposed, stood the Athenosum, 
erected by Caligula, where prizes were 
bestowed for superiority in debate or 
composition. 

The Ehone. April 25, Mon. — Descend the Ehoneto 

Avignon, by steamboat : the distance by 
the river being about 135 miles. From 
Givors, 14 miles, on the right, recognized 



OUTLINE TOUR THE RHONE. Ill 

by the smoke of its glass-works, a rail- The ^j 1 ^ Mar " 
road diverges southwestward, to St. Eti- 
enne. You next come to Vienne, 21 miles, 
on the left bank, extending along the 
Rhone, and up the valley of the small 
river Gere, between two hills, Mont Salo- 
mon on the left, crowned with a ruined 
Castle, in which it is said that Pontius 
Pilate was imprisoned when banished to 
this place, and Mont Pvpet, once the site of 
a Roman camp. This town was anciently 
called Vicnne, and is noted for the mar- 
tyrs who suffered there in the early per- 
secutions. It is conjectured by some that 
Hannibal here crossed the Rhone, on his 
way to Italy. The Museum is an ancient 
Roman temple, supposed to have been 
dedicated to Augustus. In the middle 
ages, Viennewas the capital of Dauphiny, 
and residence of the Dauphins. The 
Cathedral of St. Maurice is conspicuous 
from the shore, and a suspension bridge 
here crosses the Rhone: such bridges 
being numerous as you proceed. Observe 
the fields of the colza, or rape plant, 
which are now probably conspicuous 
from their yellow blossoms. You pass a 
suspension bridge at Condrieu, 28 miles, 
on the right bank ; another at Serriers, 
39 miles ; and another at St. Vallier, 50 
miles, on the left bank, with a large 
modern chateau, and the ruins of the 
Castle gf Vals in the rear, in the gorge 
of the Galaure. A little below St. Val- 
lier is the Chateau de Ponsas, on the 
west side, said to derive its name from 
Pontius Pilate, who, according to one 
tradition, ended his days here by throw- 
ing himself off the rock. Thence you 
pass the celebrated vineyard of L' 'Her- 
mitage, on the left side, just before reach- 
ing Tour noil GO miles, on the right bank, 



112 OUTLINE TOUR THE RHONE. 



connected with Tain, on the east side, by 
a suspension bridge, which was the first, 
on a large scale, erected in France. The 
old Castle of the Counts of Tournon, on 
a precipitous rock, is now the mairie and 
prison ; and the old college of the Jesuits, 
below the bridge, is now the College 
Royal. Passing next the Ghdteau Bourg, 
of M. Gireau, on the west bank, opposite 
to the valley of the Isere, through which 
you have a distant view of Mont Blanc, 
you reach Valence, 70 miles, on the left 
bank, surrounded by ancient fortifica- 
tions, and having a conspicuous citadel 
and a handsome suspension bridge. Here 
the infamous Caesar Borgia once ruled 
as Duke of Valentinois, under Louis XII. ; 
and in the Cathedral is a statue, by Ca- 
nova, of Pope Pius VI., who died here 
in 1799. 

Passing next the ruined castles of 
Crussol and Soyons, on the limestone 
cliffs on the right, and after these the 
Roche Courbe, among the Dauphint* 
mountains on the left, you will notice 
the little town of Lavoulte, 80 miles, on 
the right bank, distinguished by the 
large castle on the height above it, where 
Louis XIII. resided in 1629, but now it 
is used for iron works. Passing the 
mouth of the Drome on the left, observe 
next the ruins of the old fortified Abbey 
of Cruas, 88 miles, and after this, the 
village of Rochcmaure, 94 miles, marked 
by three basaltic peaks, on the central 
one of which is a feudal castle. Monte- 
limant, nearly opposite to this, but back 
from the river, is a fortified town, with 
a castle on rising ground. You come 
next to Viviers, 100 miles, on the right 
bank, with its Cathedral standing near 
the cliff, and a setninarv for the education 



OUTLINE TOUR AVIGNON. 113 

of priests. Observe now, oil the left, 
Mont Vcntoux, a lofty spur, or extreme 
buttress, of the Alps, prominent in the 
distance ; and, passing next the suspen- 
sion bridge at Bourg St. Andeol, you 
come to Pont St. Esprit, 112 miles, on the 
right, just below the mouth of the Ar- 
deche.' This town is named from the 
famous stone bridge, of 26 arches, once 
the longest stone bridge in the world, 
finished in 1310, by a brotherhood of 
masons, after having been 45 years in 
building. The town of Orange, 10 miles 
southeast of this, gave title to the Prince 
of Orange, and contains a Triumphal 
Arch and other Eoman antiquities. ^ It 
remains to pass the mouth of the Cese, 
122 miles, and the town of Roquemaure, 
128 miles, on the right, with a tower on 
the edge of a cliff, and at length you 
reach Avignon, and may stop at the Ho- Avignon. 
tel de VEurope, or at the Hotel du Palais 
Royal, both of which are in the Place 
d? Oulle, in the extreme western part of 
the city. 

April 26, Til.— Visit first the Place de Palace of the Popes. 
VHorloge, on the west side of which are 
the Hotel cle Ville and the Theatre. 
Thence proceed to the Place da Palais, 
and visit the Palace of the Popes, seven m 
of whom reigned here, from 1305 to 
1376, under French auspices, rivals to 
the popes reigning at the same time in 
Rome ; both claiming infallibility and 
universal supremacy. This huge building 
is now used for a prison and barracks ; 
the large hall has been called La Salle 
Brulee, ever since Pierre de Lude, papal 
legate in 1441, caused it to be blown up, 
and thus murdered his guests, the nobles 
of Avignon, out of revenge. Observe 
the timeworn frescoes in the GhapelU 
6* 



114 OUTLINE TOUR AVIGNON, 



Cathedral. 



clu Conclave, where the cardinals attend- 
ed service, and in the Chcvpelle clu Saint 
Office, attached to the Inquisition ; but 
the Hall of Torture, where the Inquisi- 
tors sat, and the tower ties Oubliettes, 
where Kienzi was once imprisoned, and 
the Glaciere, a tower where 60 innocent 
prisoners were thrown into a pit by the 
revolutionists in 1791, — these are com- 
prehended in the prison, and inaccessible 
to strangers. 

Thence visit the Cathedral of Notre 
Dame des Doms, in front of which is a 
calvary, or representation of our Saviour's 
cross. Observe, in the cathedral, the 
statue of the Virgin, by Pradier; the 
tombs of Popes John XXII. and Bene- 
dict XII. ; and in the choir the arch- 
bishop's chair, once the papal throne, 
covered with the Winged Bull of St. 
Luke and the Lion of St. Mark. Climb 
the tower, and you will have a fine view 
of Avignon and its environs. Observe 
westward, to the left of the broken 
bridge of St. Benezet, and beyond the 
suspension bridge, the tower of Ville 
JSfeuve, and near it the Palace or College 
of the Cardinals, built at the same time 
with that of the pope's. Far in the east 
is the valley of Vaucluse, immortalized 
by the names of Petrarch and Laura, 
and to which an excursion would be 
pleasant if there were time. Next visit 
the Roclier des Boms, a promenade on a 
lofty rock north of the cathedral, and 
observe the statue of Altai n, who intro- 
duced the cultivation of la garance, the 
madder plant, in the south of France. 
On the west, at the foot of this rock, is a 
Seminary. Proceed next, down the east 
side of the Eocher des Doms, and south- 
ward, by way of the Churches of St. 



OUTLINE TOUR — NI8MES. 115 

Pierre and St. Didier, to the Museum, Museum. 

in the Rue Grande Calede, founded by 

Oalvet, and observe the paintings of 

Joseph Vernet, who excelled in sea views; 

Charles Verne t, his son, who excelled 

in animals, and Horace Vernet, son of 

Charles, so distinguished now as a histor- 
ical painter : all these being natives of 

Avignon. Adjoining this is a Museum of 

Natural History, containing specimens 

of the flamingo, now rare, and the beaver, 

once found on the Ehone, but now ex- 
tinct. The tomb of Laura, once in the 

Church of the Cordeliers, which is now 

a ruin, has been entirely destroyed ; but 

its site may be visited, in the Rue des 

Lices, No. 8, east of the Hospice des Or- 
phelius. The walls of Avignon, with 

machicolated cornice and watch-towers, 

are one of its curiosities. 

In the afternoon, take the railroad Railway to Nlames. 

to Nismes, 24 miles : unless you prefer 

to take a public or private carriage by 

way of the Pont du Guard, an ancient 

Eoman aqueduct, 873 feet long, and 180 
high, being a part of the canal which 
supplied Nismes with water. Proceed- 
ing southward by railroad, you cross the 
Durance, 24 miles from Xismes ; a tur- 
bulent stream, flowiDg westward into 
the Rhone. The first place of note in 
the way is Tarascon, 12 miles, having a 
massive square castle by the water side, 
overtopped by the spire of its Gothic 
church. The castle begun by Henry II. 
in 1400, and finished by Rene, king of 
Anjou, who resided here, is now a pri- 
son. This town has a legend of a dragon 
called Tarasque, which was subdued by 
St. Martha; and from her the church 
was named. Here you cross the Rhone 
to Beaucaire, on the west side; back of 



116 



OUTLINE TOUR NISMES. 



Nismes. 
Amphitheatre. 



Mai son C.arr6e. 



which are rocky hills, one surmounted by 
a Calvary, the other by a ruined castle, 
once helongiug to the counts of Toulous. 
The Canal de Beaucaire runs from this 
town, southwestward, and uniting with 
the Canal du Midi, forms a water com- 
munication between the Rhone and Ga- 
ronne. Proceeding hence westward, 
ahout 12 miles, you come next to NU- 
mes, and may stop at the Hotel du Lux- 
embourg, or the Hotel du Midi. Do 
not fail to visit the Amphitheatre (Les 
Arenes) by twilight; and if you pro- 
ceed directly thither from the Hotel du 
Luxembourg, you will pass the Esplanade 
or public square ; in the centre of which 
is a new fountain adorned with statues 
by Pradier ; and on the right of which 
is the new Palais de Justice, with an 
imposing portico. 

April 27, Wednesday. — If disposed to 
take an early walk, proceed around the 
Boulevards, by way of Les Arenes, La 
Maison Carres, and La Fontaine de 
Diane, and climb the3font d" 1 Ausscs, north 
of the city to La Tourmagne, or the 
great tower, supposed to be the ruin of 
an ancient Roman tomb ; from the sum- 
mit of which you will enjoy a fine view 
of Nismes and its environs. Returning, 
you may visit the ancient Fountain of 
Diana, just named, otherwise called the 
fountain of the Nymphs, with its beauti- 
ful garden ; fronting on which is an 
ancient Roman temple, recently disin- 
terred, called the Temple of Diana, but 
rathre supposed to have been a Nym- 
phssnm, or fane dedicated to the 
Nymphs. Thence visit the Maison 
Oarree, an ancient Roman temple, con- 
secrated most probably to the adopted 
sons of Antoninus, but now used as a 



OUTLINE TOUR ARLES. 1 1 l 

Museum, and containing the remarkable Museum. 
picture of Cromwell opening the coffin 
of Charles I., and gazing on the dead 
monarch's remains, by Paul Delaroche. 
On the right of the Maison Carree is 
the Theatre, and between this and Les 
Arenesis a large Hospital. But if there 
be time it will be preferable to visit the 
Cathedral, in the heart of the old city, 
and the Porte oVAuguste, an ancient 
Roman gate. 

Take a noon or early afternoon train Railway toMarseiiies. 
for Marseilles, in order to have time to 
stop at Aries on the way. You return 
by the same railroad to Beaucaire and 
Tarascon, and thence turn southward, 
passing on your left the rocky height 
of Montmajeur, crowned with the ruins 
of its aucient abbey, before reaching 
Aries, 9 miles from Tarascon; where 
you may find refreshments, if needed, in 
the Place du Forum, either at the Hotel Arle3 - 
du Forum, or at the Hotel du JSTord, in 
the front of which are two ancient 
columns, and beneath which are said to 
be some ancient Roman catacombs. It 
will be best, however, to proceed at 
once to Les Artnes, the ancient amphi- 
theatre, and near this, to the ancient 
Roman Theatre, now disinterred, in 
which was found the celebrated statue 
called the Venus d' Aries. Next visit 
the cathedral church of St. Trophime, 
and its curious cloisters. They are near 
the Place Roy ale, in which is a gray 
granite obelisk, not Egyptian, and front- 
ing on which are the Museum and the - 
Hotel de Ville. The Museum contains 
but little besides local antiquities, in- 
cluding sculptured tombs of early 
Christians, brought from the burying- 
ground called Alischamiis or the Elysian 



118 



OUTLINR TOUR MARSEILLES. 



To Marseilles. Fields, on the eastern margin of the city. 

If there be time, visit the brick tower 
called La Troille, near the Rhone, sup- 
posed to have been built by Constantine 
the Great, when he resided here, and 
marking the site of his palace. There is 
a bridge of boats across the Rhone, con- 
necting Aries with the Comargue, a name 
given to the flat region forming a delta 
between the main river and a smaller 
branch or mouth west of it. From Aries 
you pass at first through a flat uninte- 
resting country, by St. Martin, 10 miles, 
to St. Ghamas, 24 miles, on the Etang 
de Berre, a large salt lake or bay com- 
municating with the Mediterranean. 
Observe the church of St. Armand, on 
the ridge ; and there is a Roman bridge 
here, Pont Flavien, over the Touloubre, 
with a triumphal arch at each end of it. 
After this you pass Berre, 32 miles, also 
on the Etang de Berre, and Pas de Lan- 
ders, 42 miles ; and you traverse a tun- 
nel nearly 3 miles long; before reaching 
Marseilles, 54 miles from Aries; where 
you will find the best accommodations at 
the Grand Hotel dcs Empereurs, Rue 
Canebiere, or the Hotel de Noailles, or 
Hotel de V Orient. 

Marseilles. April 28, Thursday. — See Marseilles, 

and make preparations for sailing by the 
next steamer to Naples, having regard 
to funds, the vises of your passport, and 
securing a passage ; unless you prefer 
going by land to Genoa, by way of Nice. 
You will obtain the requisite informa- 
, tion and assistance at any good hotel. 
To see the curiosities of Marseilles, in 
the shortest time, take a conveyance, 
and proceed by way of the Place Boy ale, 
the Exchange, the Theatre, and the 
Cours Bonaparte, to the Promenade or 



OUTLINE TOUR — MARSEILLES. 119 

Jardin Bonaparte, with its column at Maraeill « 
the west end of the Cours. Then climb 
the hill southward to the chapel o?JS r otre 
Dame de la Ga/rde^ within a small fort, 
and remarkable for its votive offerings. 
There is a Calvary near it on the east 
side; and from this hill you have a 
splendid view of Marseilles, surrounded 
by its amphitheatre of hills, and the 
country seats called les Bastides; with 
the harbor, and the bay, and the blue 
Mediterranean in the distance. Looking 
seaward, you behold the little island of 
If, with its castle, once the prison of 
Mirabeau ; and beyond it the islands of 
Ratonneau and Pomegue, the latter be- 
ing the more southern, between which is 
a breakwater to shelter the quarantine 
roadstead, called Port du Frioul (Fre- 
tum Julii), where Csesar's squadron was 
stationed when he besieged Marseilles. 
Looking to the entrance of the inner 
harbor, you see the Fort St. Nicholas on 
the nearer side, and, on the left beyond it, 
the light-house and the village of the 

Catalans, a peculiar tribe of fishermen; 

while on the right of it are the church 

of St. Victor, the most ancient in Mar- 
seilles, with battlemented towers, once 

noted for its abbey ; and the Bassin de 

Carenage, a wet dock for repairing ves- 
sels. The farther fort, at the harbor's 

mouth, is Fort St. Jean ; and beyond 

this is seen the new harbor Port de la 

Joliettc, formed by artificial moles and 

a breakwater in front. Not far from 

this, and beyond the city, is seen the 

Lazaret, or quarantine hospital, built in 

consequence of the great plague in 1720. 
Returning now from Notre Dame de 

la Garde, and passing around the inner 

li arbor bv the Hotel ds Ville, visit the 



120 OUTLINE TOUR MARSEILLES. 

Marseilles. Consigne or health-office, and see the 

pictures there commemorative of the 
plague. Thence pass around by the 
Fort St. Jean, to the Place de la Major, 
and visit the church of Notre Dame de 
la Major, a Eoman building, once a tem- 
ple of Dinaa, but now used as the cathe- 
dral. The interior is well preserved. 
Thence, drive to the Arch of Triumph, 
at the Place de la Porte cPAix, and then, 
turning southward, traverse the Eue 
d'Aix, and the Grand Oours, until oppo- 
site the Eue Canebiere ; then turn east- 
ward, if you have time, and visit the 
Museum and Picture Gallery, near the 
College, at the head of the Marche des 
Capucins. Then, turn southward to the 
Place Notre Dame du Mont, so named 
from the church fronting it ; and thence 
westward, by the Boulevard des Paris-. 
siens, to the Place Interieur dc la Porte 
de Rome, and you are again on the 
straight street leading southward from 
the triumphal Arch to the Place Caste- 
lane and the Praclo, which is a splendid 
drive southward, and then westward, 
perhaps three miles, to the Mediterra- 
nean. It leads also to the Chateau Bo- 
relli, which is worth seeing, if time per- 
mit ; and if detained another day at 
Marseilles, you may perhaps make an 
excursion to the aqueduct or Pont de 

Eoquefavour, some miles distant, 

forming part of the canal to bring the 
waters of the Durance to Marseilles. 
This bridge is 1,300 feet long, and 262 
feet high ; greatly surpassing the Eoman 
Pont du Grard. If detained over Sunday 
at Marseilles, you will find an English 
Chapel, and service, at No. 100, Euo 
Sylvabella. 

April 28, Friday. — Leave Marseilles 



OUTLINE TOUR GENOA. 121 

by a steamer for Naples, if one sail that Steamer to Genoa. 
day. It will probably sail in the fore- 
noon, and touch first at Genoa; the dis- 
tance by sea being about 220 miles, 
and the time required, 21 hours. Pass- 
ing the islands already named, off the 
harbor, you sail at first southward, out 
of the Gulf of Marseilles ; and then, 
doubling the rocky cape, turn eastward, 
and pass the small island of Riou ; after 
which, beyond Cape Sicie, you will have 
a distant view of Toulon, in a bay on 
the left, and may perhaps discern the 
fort from which Napoleon expelled the 
English, and thus first displayed his 
great military talents. You next pass 
the islands of Ilyires, and beyond Cape 
Taillat you will perceive Frejus, in the 
gulf of that name, near which Napoleon 
landed on his return from Egypt in 
1799, and from which he embarked for 
Elba in 1814. About 20 miles eastward 
of this is Cannes, where Napoleon 
landed on his return from Elba, to 
triumph and fall, in 1815. Farther on 
is Nice, a town of no great note; and 
near it the Principality of Monaco, con- 
taining only 6,000 inhabitants, — one of 
the smallest monarchies in the world. 
No other places of note are passed be- 
fore reaching Genoa, which will pro- 
bably be early in the morning. The 
villages westward from the light-house or 
Fanale of Genoa, seen as you approach 
it, are San Pietro d' Arena, Cornigliano, 
Sestri, Pegli, and Yoltri. The forts on 
the heights back of the city are Fort 
Bugatto on the west ; Fort Sjyeroni, 
central; and Fort Castellazzo eastward. 
There is a royal dock-yard, called La 
FiKjnio, east of the city/beyond the tor- 
rent of Bisagno ; and the mountain be- 



122 

Genoa. 



Palace. 
Poorhouse. 

Dogana. 



Cathedral. 



Dncal Palace. 



OUTLINE TOUR GENOA. 

yond this is called Mt. Porto Pino. The 
entrance into the harbor is between the 
Molo JSfuovo or new pier on the west, 
and the Molo Vecchio or old pier on the 
right. Observe from the harbor the old 
palace and garden of Andrea Doria, once 
given to him by the state, with terraces, 
and a gigantic statue of him in rear. 
Observe also, more to the right, the 
Bagne or convict prison, and the Dar- 
scena or royal docks and arsenal, near 
the shore, in rear of which is the Royal 
Palace, and back of this is the great 
hospital called the Albergo de^Poveri; 
and still more to the right is the Dogana 
or custom-house. The remains of the 
old fortifications are still to be seen, just 
in rear of the city ; and the conspicuous 
church in the east, of a reddish hue, 
with a lofty dome, and two slender 
towers in front, is the church of Santa 
Maria di Carignano. 

April 30, Saturday. — Go ashore at Ge- 
noa, and see the city, employing a guide. 
Near the Dogana you may see hanging 
from the wall, a chain taken from the 
city of Pisa in a former war. Enter the 
hall of St. George in the Dogana, and 
you may see numerous marble statues of 
the old Doges of Genoa. Then visit the ca- 
thedral of San Lorenzo, in a semi-oriental 
style, with two marble lions in front, 
and fine paintings within. Observe the 
chapel of John the Baptist, which is 
thought to contain his mortal remains, 
brought from Palestine. Next visit the 
Ducal Pul ace, now used as a court- 
house ; and see the large hall once 
adorned with statues of the Doges, 
which were destroyed during the revo- 
lution. Next visit the church of St. 
Ambrose, near by, which contains an 



OUTLINE TOUR UKNOA. 123 

Assumption by Guido. Then, pass by ralaces, viz. ; 
the Piazza di San Domeniclw, on which 
fronts the Theatre, and the Academy; 
and visit the Palazzo Pallcmceini to see Paiavicdni, 
the Madonna della Colonna, by Raphael. 
Next visit the Guarda Nazionale, which 
is the city hall, in the Strada Nuova, to 
see if possible, the bust, and autograph 
letters of Columbus. Next visit the 
Palazzo Brignole Sale, called, from its BHgnole Sale, 
red color, Palazzo Rosso, in the same 
street, to see its collection of paintings. 
Next visit the Church of San Siro, SanSiro, 
named from Cyrus, an ancient bishop, 
and containing statues of the 12 apostles ; 
and next the church of the Amiunziata, Annumiata, 
which has been renewed within, and is 
gorgeous with fresco and gilding. The 
churches are closed from noon to 4 
o'clock p. m. Next visit the Palazzo Reale, 
B<- <tle or Royal Palace, formerly that of 
Marcello Durazzo, and bought by the 
king, it is said for $1,400,000 ; among 
its pictures is a Holy Family, by Titian. 
Walk as far as the Doria Palace, to see Bona, 
at least the exterior of it; and returning 
by the Piazza de V Aequo Verde, where a 
statue of Columbus is probably now 
erected, visit the Pedazzo Bcrfbi, or the BalM, 
Palazzo Durazzo opposite to it, and the Durazzo, 
University near them, if time permit. 
Or else you may visit the beautiful pro- 
menade and fountain ofAcqua Sola in the 
eastern part of the city, and the church churches; 
of Santa Maria di Cari(/n<ino, already Carignano. 
mentioned, in the southeast part of 
the city, the approach to which is by a 
dry bridge, over a deep gulf, above 
the tops of the houses. Be punctually 
on board the steamer, at the time ap- 
pointed, in order to sail towards evening 
for Leghorn; or should vou remain in 



124 



OUTLINE TOUR LEGHORN. 



Leghorn. 



Cathedral. 



Genoa over Sunday, there is English 
service at No. 1791, Strada San Giu- 
seppe. Observe that, in the Italian 
cities, the streets are not numbered 
separately, but one series of numbers 
runs through the whole city. 

May 1, Sunday. — You will reach Leg- 
horn, probably, at an early hour in the 
morning; the distance from Genoa being 
nearly 100 miles ; but you need not go 
ashore unless you choose to do so; and 
in that case yon may visit the Duomo or 
Cathedra], on the south side of the Pi- 
azza cPArme, via Ferdinanda, which is 
the principal street, and runs eastward 
from the harbor; or, what is recom- 
mended, you may attend the Englisli 
Chapel, in the southern part of the city. 
In the Piazza Gran Ducale, in the eastern 
part of the city, is a fine statue of one of 
the Grand Dukes ; and there is a statue 
of the Grand Duke, Ferdinand J., sup- 
ported by four Moors, on the Quay near 
the Darsena. The interior, which is the 
oldest part at the city, is surrounded by 
a wet ditch, the remnant of old fortifica- 
tions ; with a strong fort toward the 
north, called Forte Xuovo, probably to 
distinguish it from the Fortezza Vecchia 
near the Moletto ; which latter is a small 
island on the north side of the harbor. 
The harbor is chefly formed by the Mole 
on the south side ; near which, on a 
small exterior island, is the Female or 
light-house; and back of this is the La- 
zaretto di San Rocco ; besides which there 
are two other lazarettos for vessels sus- 
pected of, or infected with, contagious 
disease. The tower of Marzocco, without 
the Avails, is almost the only monument 
remaining of the age of the republic. 
As Leghorn is a free port of entry, the 



OUTLINE TOUR CIVITA VECCHIA. 125 

costumes of various nations will be seen 
in the streets. Accommodations may be 
had, if needed, at the Hotel du Nbrd, 
near the landing place from the Darsena, 
or at the Hotel San Marco, north of the 
Piazza d'Arme, on the way to the rail- 
road station. You will leave Leghorn 
towards evening, for Chita Vecehia, 
passing in the night the island of Elba, 
and other smaller islands on tlie way. 

May 2, M. — You may expect to arrive 
early at Chita Vecchia, the distance from Civita Vecchia. 
Leghorn being about 140 miles. This 
place, on the site of the ancient Portus 
Trajani, afterwards called Centumcellae, 
and destroyed by the Saracens in 828, 
derives its sole importance from its being 
the nearest seaport to Rome; the dis- 
tance being about 56 miles. Like Leg- 
horn and Genoa, it has an artifical 
harbor, chiefly formed by moles built out 
into the sea, from which it presents an 
imposing front. The only place in it, 
worthy of a visit, is said to be the Gal- 
lery of Etruscan Vases from the ruins of 
Corneto, kept by Signior Donato Bucci ; 
which will barely repay one for the 
trouble and expense of going ashore. 
The best inn is probably the Isole Bri- 
tcmnicho, or else the Hotel de V Europe. 
You will start early in the afternoon for 
Naples, the distance being about 170 Voyage to Naples, 
miles ; and on leaving the harbor, the 
heights of Albano and Velletri will be 
seen on your left, across the Campa.gna 
or lowland which extends from Rome to 
the sea. You will pass Monte Circeo, 
near Capo Circello, which is the most 
projecting cape on the way, and is at 
the southern extremity of the Pontine 
Marshes. 



12 C 



OUTLINE TO UK NAPLES. 



Procida. 



Capri. 



Bay of Naples. 



Naples. 



Hotels. 



Masco Uoiirbuiiico. 



May 8, Tu. — On approaching Naples, 
and before rounding the promontory of 
Miseno to enter the bay, observe in the 
southwest the island of Ischia, appearing 
like quite a mountain far out seaward, 
and the island of Procida much nearer, 
marked by its castle-like prison, frowning 
on a lofty bluff. .Caprim&y also be seen 
far southward, on the opposite side of 
the bay, near Point Cainpanella. After 
this, observe Pozmol% on the northern 
shore, and nearer to Naples the rocky 
island of Nisita, near the Oape of Posil- 
ipo, with a small island between them 
on which is the Lazaretto. East of this 
arc seen two Large villas, anciently be- 
longing to Lucullus and Pollio. As you 
enter the harbor of Naples, observe the 
Castle of St. Elmo, back on a lofty hill ; 
the Castello delVOw, on a projecting 
mole, west of which is the small bay of 
Ohaia; the Cast el Nuovo, northeast of 
the preceding, near which on the left arc 
the Ihirst an or arsenal, and back of this 
the Royal Palace; and still further east- 
ward the Castello del Carmine, fronting 
on the shore called Spiaggia della fcfari- 
nella, The royal palace of Catpodimonte 
may also be seen from the harbor, on a 
hill north of the city. On landing, you 
may find superior accommodations at 
the Albergo Victoria, or the Grande Bre- 
taghe, in the western part of the city, or 
the Albergo Crocelle facing the bay ; or 
cheaper and perhaps more convenient 
Lodgings at the Udtelde New-York^ near 
the Dogoma or custom-house. 

After making persona] arrangements, 
if tho weather bestormy the day may be 
devoted chiefly to the Borbonic Museum; 
but if pleasant, much may be accomplish- 



OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES. 127 

cd besides. Take a guide,* and a calmo 
or other conveyance, and ride first by 
way of the Castello Nuovo, the fountain 
and Strada Medina, and the Strada and 
Fontana Montoliveto, to the Chiesa di 
Gesu Nuoto, or New Jesuits' Church, in Jesuits' Church, 
front of which observe the monument 
surmounted by an image of the Madonna. 
Visit next the Church of Santa CMara, San Chiara. 
or Saint Clara, a royal church, opposite 
to the preceding, and the only one in 
Gothic style in this city. Proceed from 
this to the Church of San Domenico, in San Domcnico. 
front of which is another monument 
surmounted by St. Dominic. Stop next 
at the Chapel of San Sevcro, and see the San Severe 
celebrated veiled, or rather draped statues 
of Modesty, and the Dead Christ; and 
Vice Undeceived, representing a man 
caught in a net. Thence pass the Church 
of San Paolo, the monument in front of San Paolo, 
which is surmounted by a statue of St. 
Paul; and the Church of San Fellpo 
JSFeri, a modern Roman saint, and visit 
the Cathedral or Church of San Gen- S. Genuaro. 
uaro, observing particularly the altar- 
piece representing the Assumption, and 
the silver image of St. Januarius, with 
the silver busts in the chapel of this 
saint, on the right. Here is performed, 
annually, the supposed miracle of the 
liquefaction of the blood of this saint, 
from whom the cathedral is named. 
Proceed next to the Largo delle Pignc, 
and, if there be time, visit the Picture 
Galleries of the Museo Borvonico, or Roy- 
al Museum. After this, go by the Strada 
Foria, to the Reale Albergo cWPoreri, or Albergo deToveri. 

* It will be well to encage a guide at once for the whole sojourn 
at Naples ; and the writer would recommend Thomas Lewis, or 
Luigi, who may probably be found at the Hotel de New- York. 



128 



OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES. 



Hospital for the Poor, in the northeast- 
ern part of the city, and then, turning 

Campo Santo. eastward, visit the Campo Santo Vecchio, 

or old burying ground, and beyond it the 
Campo Santo Nuovo, or new cemetery; 
north of which is the Campo di Marte, 
for military parades. Eeturn by way of 
the Porta Capuana, the Piazza del Tri- 
bunali, the Church of the Annunziata, 
the Piazza del Mercato, the Castel del 
Carmine, and the Church of Santa Maria 
del Carmine, which contains the monu- 
ments of Conradin of Suabia and Fred- 
erick of Austria, beheaded here in 1268, 
and its tower, in Saracenic style, is the 
loftiest in Naples. Thus you will have 
seen the chief objects in the eastern part 
of the city. Procure a permit, if possible, 
to visit the Palace of Capodimonte and 
the Observatory to-morrow. 

May 4, Wed. — From the Largo del 
Castello, on which front the Church of 

s.Giacomu. San Giacomo, or St. James, and the Pal- 

ace of the Ministers of State, pass around 
the Theatre of San Carlo, one of the 
largest in the world, to the Piazza del 
Real Palazzo, or Largo del Palazzo, in 
front of the Royal Palace ; on the right 
of which, as you face it, is the Palazzo 
del Principe Leopoldo, and on the left the 
Palazzo della Forresteria; and after 
viewing these, visit the splendid new 

s. Francesco da Paola. Basilica or R °y al Church oi San Fran- 
cesco da Paola, opposite to the main 
palace. Then proceed by way of the 
Strada Toledo, through the Largo dello 
Spirito Santo, and by the museum ; aud 

Capodimonte. visit the Royal Palace of Capodimonte, 

and the Observatory southeast of it. Re- 
turning, stop at the ATbergo di San 
Gennaro de Poveri, a poor-house, in the 
valley west of the Strada Nuova di Ca- 



Theatre San Carlo 



OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES. 129 

podimonte, and visit the Catacombs of 
Naples. Thence, visit as many of the 
galleries as time will permit in the Museo Museum. 
Borbonico. After this, ascend the hill to 
the Castle of St. Elmo, and visit the St Elmo, 
monastery and Church of San Martino, S. Martino. 
just below the castle, with its rich sculp- 
ture, and its cloisters, commanding a fine 
view of the city and harbor. If there be 
time, return by a long circuit westward, 
by way of the Strada Belvedere, and you 
will have fine views of the bay, on the 
way down to the Villa Reale or Eoyal yma Reale. 
Garden, which you will pass in entering 
the city from the west. The Albergo 
Vittoria or Hotel Victoria fronts on these 
gardens. 

May 5, Th. — Visit the antiquities and Excursion to Bai8e,&c 
natural curiosities of the region west of (one ay,) 
Naples. Take a carriage with a good 
horse or horses, and turning westward 
by way of the Royal Garden, observe the 
tomb of Virgil, above and on the left of Virgil's Tomb, 
the entrance to the Grotto ofPosilipo, p OS iiipo. 
an ancient tunnel through the Monte di 
Posilipo, which extends south westward 
from Naples. Pass through this grotto, 
and diverging to the right from the main 
road, visit the Grotto del Cane, near the Grotto del Cane. 
Lake WAgna.no ; and observe the ebul- 
lition of carbonic acid in the lake, like 
the effervescence of soda water. Near 
this are the baths of San Germano, near 
the ancient villa of Lucullus. Proceed 
next to Pozzuoli, the ancient Puteoli, Pozzuoli. 
where St. Paul landed on his way to 
Rome; and turning to the right, passing 
near the remains of the Amphitheatre, 
visit the Solfatara, the crater of an an- 
cient volcano, almost extinct, but still 
emitting smoke, steam, and sulphureous 
exhalations. Returning to Pozzuoli, and 
7 



130 



OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES. 



Baise. 



Nero's Baths. 



noticing, as you descend, the Bridge of 
Caligula, projecting out from the town, 
proceed westward, by the temple of 
Serapis and Cicero's Villa ; and passing 
to the right of Monte JSfuovo, which was 
thrown up by a volcano in 1538, and to 
the right of Lake Oanneto, the ancient 

Lake Avernus. Avernus, you will come to the Arco Fe- 

lice, an ancient Koman portal, from 
which, looking downward on the west, 
you may gaze on the site of the ancient 
Cumae, and the sea beyond it. Then, 
turning southward, and passing to the 
left of Lake Tusaro, the ancient Ache- 
rusia, visit the ruins of Bairn, including 
the temples of Mercury, Diana, and Ve- 
nus. Continuing southward, visit next 
the Baths of Nero, so called ; and passing 
the Elysian Fields on the right, ascend 
to the Pircina Miraoile, constructed by 
Lucullus as a reservoir of fresh water, 
and the Cento Camarelli or Hundred 
Chambers, otherwise called Nero's Pris- 
on. Looking southward, you may be- 
hold the harbor of Mmnicm, once a 
Koman naval station; and have a fine 
view of the bay. Then returning, past 
Baia and the Lucrine Lake, diverge to 

Sibyl's Cave. fa e j e f t? an( j v j s j t t } ie sibyVs Cave, on the 

south side of Lake Avernus. Thus much 
can be accomplished in one day, return- 
ing to Naples in the evening, as the 
writer can testify from his own experi- 
ence. 

Take place for Home. May 6, Fr. — Engage conveyance to 
Eome, the first part of next week, either 
by diligence, or by hiring a vetturino to 
take you thither in a vettura, that is, by 
private conveyance ; taking the railroad 
in preference, as far as Capua, if you can 
so arrange it. Give directions also for 
the vises of your passport ; and then visit 



OUTLINE TOUR — POMPEII. 131 

Pompeii. To do this, you may either Excursion to Pompeii 
take the railroad thus far on the way to 
Nocera; or, it* there be a party, it will 
be pleasant to take a citadina, or other 
private conveyance. In the latter case, 
you pass along the shore eastward and 
then southward ; and on emerging from Environs of Naples. 
Naples you pass two large buildings, a 
hospital and barracks. The road is al- 
most a continuous street until you come Portici . / visit the 
to Portici, and Resina beyond it. Be- Palace.) 
tween these villages, and connecting 
them, is the Royal Palace of Portici, 
forming a quadrangle through which you 
pass by an archway on each side. Be- 
yond Resina, you come next to Torre del 
Greco, a new village, built directly over 
the old one, which was buried in lava 
by the great eruption of Vesuvius in 
1794. Passing next Torre Annunziata, 
and at length diverging to the left, you 
approach Pompeii, by way of the Villa 
of Diomed, which stands without the 
walls, at the northwest angle of the city. Pompeii. 
Observe this, and the tombs on either 
side of the street leading thence into the 
city ; and from the wall you may have 
a general view of the principal part 
which is excavated. Then visit, among 
the chief localities, the House of Panza: 
the Temple of Jupiter, standing at the 
nearer end of the Forum ; the Pantheon, 
and Coznaculum, and Chafe idic urn, on 
the left side of the Forum ; the Basilica, 
on the right of the Forum, from which 
you may pass out for refreshments to 
the Hotel, the site of which was once the 
sea shore. Or if you come by railroad, 
and enter here, the objects above named 
will be seen in a reversed order. After 
having noticed these objects, yon may 
visit the Theatre, and the Forum Nun- 



132 



OUTLINE TOUR MOUNT VESUVIUS. 



Excursion to 
vius. 



Herculaneum. 



dmarium in the southeastern part of the 
excavated region ; and lastly the House 
of Julia Felix, and the Amphitheatre, in 
the extreme eastern part of the city, 
where your carriage, if you have one, 
may be ordered to meet you ; and it 
will be necessary to return to Naples by 
the same road by which you came. 

May 7, Saturday. — Ascend Mount Ve- 
suvius. You may proceed to Kesina by 
any conveyance ; and while they are 
preparing horses to ascend the mountain 
you may decend into the ancient Theatre 
of Herculaneum, which town lies buried 
in larva, under Resina ; and this theatre 
was discovered in digging a well, which 
led to its excavation. Then turning to 
the left, that is eastward, you ride up 
the steep ascent, and may pass through 
the vineyard, fostered perhaps by sub- 
terranean heat, from which is made the 
rich wine desecrated by the name of 
Lachrymae Christi, or tears of Christ! 
At length you reach the Hotel near the 
Observatory ; and, passing these, come 
to the foot of the Crater. Here it is 
necessary to dismount, and climb on foot 
with or without assistance ; or else, you 
may be carried up by porters. You 
reach first what may be called the 
General Crater, or table of Vesuvius, 
almost level ; on the southeastern or 
farther side of which are two actual 
craters, twins as it were, both emitting 
smoke and sulphureous exhalations ; the 
more eastern having been formed by the 
eruption of 1851. You may perhaps 
climb to the highest point of the moun- 
tain, which is at the west end of the 
ridge between the two craters ; but 
avoid breathing the exhalations, as much 



OUTLINE TOUR EXCURSION TO P^ESTUM. 133 

as possible. You have only to return, 
as you came, to the city. 

Mm if 8, Sin, day. — Attend service at 
the English chapel, connected with the 
British Embassy, Palazzo Calabretti, in 
the western part of the city. Naples is 
said to have more than 300 churches ; 
and there are doubtless some worth 
visiting, besides those already named; 
such as the church of Santa Maria elegit 
Angeli, in the same quarter as the Eng- 
lish chapel. It may be practicable, also, 
to visit some of the hospitals, if you 
desire it, and examine them more mi- Excursion to Pses- 
nutely. Indeed, many objects remain, turn (Two days— 
in Naples and its vicinity, which would your Naples cice- 
be well worth visiting, were one quite rone, 
at leisure ; especially would it be inte- 
resting to make excursions southward, 
by Salerno to the ancient temples at 
Pactum, and by steamboat to the island 
of Capri, with its ancient amphitheatre 
and Grotta Azzura, or Azure Cave ; but 
to do so might be at the expense of other 
objects still more interesting in advance ; 
and as the season will be growing hot, 
the writer would recommend to hasten 

northward. 

May 9, Monday. — Commence the jour- Journey to Rome. 
ney, by land conveyance to Rome ; go- 
ing by railroad in preference, as far as 
Capua. If you have not yet seen enough 
of the Borbonic Museum, it may be 
visited again to-day, before taking an 
afternoon train ; and if time permit, it 
will be worth while to stop at Caserta, Caserta. 
on the way to Capua, and see the Royal 
Palace there, which is one of the most 
splendid in Europe; but excepting one 
grand stairway, it is inferior to the 
palace of Versailles; and you may see 
its exterior without leaving the enrs, as 



134 OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES TO ROME. 

the train stops a few minutes directly in 
front of it. These matters should be 
pre-arranged in connection with the rest 
of your journey from Naples to Rome, 
which must be either by diligence or 
by vettura, as already mentioned. 

After leaving Naples, you pass the old 
castle of Cancello, and after this the 
hermitage of Maddaloni, crowning suc- 
cessive hill-tops on the right, and near 
stations of the same name, before reach- 
ing Caserta, remarkable for the Royal 
Palace there, already referred to, 14 
miles from Naples. Hence you continue 
Capua. on to Capua, about 6 miles farther, where 

the railroad terminates, outside the forti- 
fications. This town occupies the site of 
the ancient Casilinum, a mile and a half 
from the site of ancient Capua, the ruins 
of which are still to be seen at the 
market town of Santa Maria. It was 
captured by Hannibal, and, by its luxu- 
ries caused the ruin of his army. It 
once rivalled Rome; but the modern 
town is an inferior place, in which the 
Cathedral is the chief object of interest ; 
and, next to this, the Church of the 
Annunciation. You emerge from Capua 
by a bridge over the river Volturno ; and 
may still perceive on your right the 
snow-clad Monti Tifatini, so named 
from Tifata, an extinct volcano. You 
pass the solitary inn of Sparanisi, 8 miles 
from Capua ; and at the Rocco Arpino, 
or village and tower of Arpi, the coun- 
try becomes hilly, until you again ap- 
proach the Mediterranean. You pass 
next the village of St. Agatha, 16 miles 
from Capua; and after reaching Gascano 
again descend towards the sea. At 24 
miles from Capua, you cross the river 
Garigliano, by an iron bridge. This is 



OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES TO ROME. 135 

the ancient river Liris, which separated 
Campania from Latium. Near this 
Marius once concealed himself in the 
marshes ; and here you come upon the 
ancient Appian Way, which you will Appian Way. 
traverse until across the Pontine Marshes, 
far on the way to Koine. The ruins be- 
yond this river are supposed to be those 
of the ancient town ofMinturnum. You 
come next to Mola, otherwise called Mola di Gaeta. 
Mola di Gaeta, about 32 miles from 
Capua. West of this on the shore, you 
will see Castellone, supposed to be on 
the site of Cicero's Formian Villa, near 
which he was assassinated ; and five 
miles west of Mola, on a promontory, 
you will see Gaeta, the ancient Cajeta, 
noted for the residence of Pope Pius IX. 
an exile there, during the Roman revo- 
lution of 1849. The tower on the sum- 
mit of Gaeta, called Orlando's Tower, is 
the ancient mausoleum of L. Munatius 
Plaucus, the founder of Lyons, and was 
erected 16 years before the Christian 
era. Gaeta has a cathedral; and the 
Church of the Trinity is situated near a 
rock, which, according to local tradi- 
tion, was rent into three parts, in honor 
of the Trinity, on the day of our Sav- 
iour's death ! 

Leaving Mola, without diverging to 
Gaeta, you will sooff pass the spot 
where Cicero was overtaken and be- 
headed ; and see, on the left side of the 
road, the ruins of the splendid cenotaph 
erected there to his memory. You pass 
next the village of Itri, among the hills, Itrf. 
40 miles from Capua, supposed to have 
been the site of Mamurra ; and here j r ou 
will perceive, on the left side of the 
road, Cyclopean ruins of a temple and 
mausoleum, since used, apparently, as a 



136 



OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES TO ROME. 



Fondi. 



Portello. 



Terracinia. 



Pontine Marshes. 



castle. Beyond this is Fondi, 46 miles 
from Capua, where Thomas Aquinas 
once lived and taught theology. You 
pass next a small ruin on the right, said 
to be the tomb of Hannibal ; and then 
come to Portello, the last village belong- 
ing to the kingdom of Naples. A little 
beyond this is a tower called Torre 
de'Confini. And now you are in the 
dominions of the Pope ; of which you 
will be reminded by the usual ceremo- 
nies of the Dogana or custom-house. 
You continue on, between the Lake of 
Fondi, noted for its fish, and a mountain 
range on the right to Terracina, 58 miles 
from Capua, or 78 from Naples, by the 
route here described. Terracina was 
called Traxima by the Greeks ; and here 
was the ancient Anxur, built by the 
Yolsci, on the summit of the hill or cliff, 
back of the modern town. The Cathe- 
dral stands on the site of the ancient 
temple to Jupiter Anxurus, of which 
some columns still remain ; and palaces 
were built here, by the Emperor Galba, 
the Gothic Emperor Theodoric, and Pope 
Pius VI., the last of which is still stand- 
ing. At Capo Circeo, or Circelo, south- 
west of Terracina, once stood the temple 
of Circe, daughter of the Sun, where 
Ulysses and his companions are said to 
have been transf6%ned to swine ; a fable 
not without its moral. 

Leaving Terracina, you enter upon 
the famous Pontine Marshes, which ex- 
tend back some 10 or 12 miles from the 
sea, and are about 24 miles in length. 
They are noted for their unhealthiness, 
owing to the malaria or noxious exhala- 
tions, so that even now it is dangerous 
for a traveller to pass a night upon them; 
and no less are they noted for the nu- 



OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES TO ROME. 137 

merous attempts to drain them, by 

which they are rendered less unhealthy 

now than formerly. You cross them by 

a straight and elevated road, called 

Linea Pia, because rebuilt by Pope Pius 

VI., on the site of the ancient Appian 

Way, constructed by Appius Claudius 

Coecus long before the Christian era. 

A canal runs along the left side of the 

road, which crosses the river Uffenso at 

Ponte Maggiore; and after passing Mesa 

there is a white marble bridge over the 

canal, near Bocca di Flume. The vil- 
lages seen on the hill-sides, far to the 

right, are Piperno, Sezze, and Sermoneta. 

After this, you may notice some slight 

ruins on the left hand, which are be- 
lieved to be the remains of Appii Forum, 

and the Three Taverns, where St. Paul 
was met by his brethren, on his w T ay to 
Rome. You quit the Pontine Marshes 
at the inn called Torre de'Tre Ponti, and 
come next to Gisterna, an ordinary vil- 
lage, 34 miles from Terracina. Velletri, ve-letri. 
on a hill-side, 8 miles farther, was the 
birth-place of Augustus Csesar. The 
most prominent building there is its col- 
lege ; and 5 or 6 miles beyond it, after 
passing the castle of San Gennerallo, 
you come to Genzano and Avicia ; with 
a remarkable bridge between them, and 
another beyond. Next you pass a tomb, 
supposed to be that of Aruns, son of the 
Etrurian king Porsena, before entering 
Albano, on another hill, about 10 miles Albano. 
from VeUetri, and 14 from Rome, with- 
in sight of " the Eternal City." Here, 
if travelling by vettura, you should go, 
while the horses are feeding, and visit 
the Lago $ Albano, or Alban Lake, two 
miles east of the town, with the cele- 
brated emissary, or tunnnel. which was 
7* 



138 



OUTLINE TOUR NAPLES TO ROME. 



Pompey's Tomb. 



Aqueduct 



Porta S. Giovani. 



Hotels. 



constructed as an outlet for the lake, by 
the Eoraans, 394 b. o. in fulfilment of an 
oracle, during their contest with the 
Veientes. At the same time you will 
see the Pope's country Palace, in the 
village called Castle Gandolfo, conspi- 
cuous from the lake. This palace with 
its battlements will be seen on the right, 
as you leave Albano ; and you will pass 
the Tomb of Pompey the Great, on your 
right before reaching the gate, on the 
same side, which leads up to the Villa 
Torlonia. Descending to Tratlochie, you 
resume the Appian Way close to the 
column erected in 1757, by Le Maire 
and Boscovich, for measuring the meri- 
dian of Rome. On the right of the road, 
beyond this, are the ruins of Bovillae, 
once the Sacrarium of the Julian Family. 
You come next to Torre di Mezzavia, half 
way between Albano and Rome; and 
soon after this pass a ruined tomb, once 
supposed to be a temple of FortunaMuli- 
ebris. Observe next, on the left, the 
ruins of an ancient Roman Aqueduct, 
probably that of Claudian ; and after 
this, on the same side, the farm of the 
Duke Torlonia, commonly called Roma 
Vecchia, comprising the ruins, probably, 
of the ancient Pagus Lemonius. The 
lofty Aqueducts now seen on the right, 
are probably the Julian and Mercian, one 
of which is now used for conveying the 
Aqua Felice into Rome. The church of 
St. John Lateran is now conspicuous, 
and remarkable for the statues which 
crown it. Near this you enter the 
city, by the Porta San Giovani, or St. 
John's Gate ; and, passing the Coliseum, 
will find the best accommodations at 
the Hotel de V Europe, or at the Hotel de 
Londrea, both of which arejn the Piazza 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



139 



di Spagna, in the northern and most ROME. 

healthy quarter of the city ; as also in 
the Hotel de Russie, near the Piazza del Hotels. 
Popolo, in the same quarter. ^ Among 
the second class inns are the Hotel oVAl- 
lemagne, Via Oondotti; Hotel d'Angle- 
terre, Via Borgognona ; and Hotel Mi- 
nerva, Piazza della Minerva. Lodgings 
may easily be found also in private 
houses. The time required by vettura, 
from Naples to Rome, is usually three 
days, sleeping the first night at Mola, 
and the second at Oisterna. By dili- 
gence, two days sumce ; but we here 
allow three, and now proceed to visit 
Rome, a map of which should first be 
procured at the bookstores. We shall 
follow mainly the order of Vasi, which 
is nearly copied in a little work entitled 
"Rome seen, in a Week;" modifying it, 
however, from the results of personal 
experience* 

May 12, Thursday.— BX^Q first to the 
Porta del Popolo, which is the northern Porta del Popolo. 
entrance to the city. Observe on the 
exterior of this gate the statues of St. 
Peter and St. Paul ; and within the gate 
on the east side, visit the Church of 
Santa Maria del Popolo, and observe s . Maria del Popolo. 
the tomb of the Princess Odescalchi, 
with a lion at its base, in the Ohigi cha- 
pel, the second on the left. Over the 
high altar is an ancient image of the 
Virgin Mary, said to have been sculp- 
tured by St. Luke ! The statue of Jonah 
seated on a whale, was modelled by 
Raphael, but executed by Lorenzetto. 

* A guide will probably be wanted ; and the writer would 
recommend Giovanni Stella, whose name is Anglicized John 
Starr, and who may probably be found at the Hotel de 
1' Europe. 



140 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



The open area within the gate is the 
Piazza del Popolo. Piazza del Popolo ; in the centre of 
which is an Egyptian Obelisk ; on the 
west side is a statue of Neptune, and 
near it the Palace in which is the Ame- 
rican Embassy and Congregational Cha- 
pel ; while on the east side of the Piazza 
is a gigantic statue of Rome, at the foot 
of the Pincian Hill. Looking south- 
ward from the Piazza, three streets are 
seen radiating thence ; of which the 
one on the left is the Via Babuino, lead- 
ing to the Piazza di Spagna ; the central 
one is the Corso, leading toward the 
Capitol, but not extending so far ; and 
the third, diverging towards the right, 
is the Ripetla, which runs near the 
Tiber. Between these, two churches 
front on the Piazza del Popolo ; S. Maria 
di Monte Santo on the left, and S. Maria 
diMiracoli on the right ; but they have 
only a local interest. Enter now the 
Corso, where horse-races are held during 
the Carnival; and passing the church of 
Gesu e Maria, on the left, and that of 
S. Oiacomo degli Incurdbili nearly oppo- 
site to it, visit next the church of San 
Carlo, with two columns in its front, 
one of the largest and finest in the city. 
Then passing the Ruspoli Palace, now a 
coffee-house, visit next the Church of 
San Lorenzo in Lucina, west of the Cor- 
so, to see the painting of the Crucifixion 
there by Guido Reni. Returning to the 
Corso, and passing the GMgi Palace on 
the right, not open to visitors, turn into 
the Piazza Colonna, occupying a part of 
the ancient Antonine Forum, and see 
Column of Antoninus, the Column of Antoninus, erected by the 
Senate to M. Aurelius Antoninus, in 
honor of his victory over the Marco- 
manni ; but his statue has been replaced 



Corso. 



8. Carlo. 



S. Lorenzo. 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 141 

by that of St. Paul. Fronting this co- 
lumn, on the west, is the General Post Post Office. 
Office ; and still west of this, in the ad- 
joining Piazza cli Monte Citorio, where 
once stood the Theatre of Statilius Tau- 
rus, is another Egyptian obelisk. The 
palace fronting this, on the north, is the 
Curia Sunocenziana, occupied by courts 
of law. 

Visit next, south of this, the Dogana 
or custom-house, which is the ancient 
temple of Antoninus Phis, partly reno- Temple of Antoninus 
vated; 11 of the ancient Corinthian col- Plu8, 

umns still forming a part of its front. 
South of this, and likewise west of the 
Corso, is the large Church of St. Igna- 
tius (Loyola), which, like the other pa- 
rish churches, is closed from noon until 
4 o'clock, p. m. ; but a visit to it may well 
be omitted. The Sciarra Palace, next, Sciarra Palace, 
in the Corso, contains some fine paint- 
ings, as the one called Vanity and Mo- 
desty, by Leonardo Da Vinci ; but it is 
probably still closed on account of a law- 
suit. Proceed next to the Church of San s. Marcello. 
Murcello, on the left, to see a curious 
painting of the Creation of Eve, by 
Pierrin della Vega ; and especially visit 
the Church of Santa Maria in Via Lata, s. Maria in Via Lata, 
nearly opposite, which is said to occupy 
the spot where St. Paul resided in Rome; 
and it is added that he used to baptize 
converts in the spring of water still exist- 
ing under the church. Visit next the 
Doria Palace, also fronting on the Corso, Doria Palace, 
and one of the finest in Rome. It con- 
tains 800 paintings, among which are 
the Sacrifice of Abraham, by Titian ; 
and St. John baptizing Jesus by pouring 
water on his head. Proceed next to 
the Palazzo di Venezia, once given to Palazzo Venezia. 
Venice, but now belonging to Austria ; 



H2 



OUTLINE TOUR HOME. 



8. Marco. 



Torlonia Palace. 



Church of the Jesuits. 



Capitoline Hill, or 
Campidoglio. 



Senatorial Palace. 



Conservator!. 



Museum of the Cap- 
itol. 



and visit the Church of Han Marco with- 
in its precincts, which is said to contain 
the body of St. Mark, in a coffer of gray 
marble under the altar! The nave is 
supported by 20 columns of Sicilian jas- 
per. The Torlonia Palace, fronting on 
the Piazza di Venezia, is said to contain 
some fine paintings ; but more accessible 
and remarkable is the Cliiesa di Gesu, or 
Church of the Jesuits, west of the pre- 
ceding, containing the tomb of Cardinal 
Bellarmine, a marble group representing 
the Trinity ! with a globe beneath, said 
to be the largest mass of lapis lazuli 
known ; and other sculpture aimed 
against the Protestant religion. 

May 13, Fr. — Continue the inspection 
of Rome, by proceeding still southward 
from the Jesuits' Church to the Capito- 
line Hill. Mount the steps, between the 
gigantic statues of Castor and Pollux, 
and you come to the Campidoglio, in the 
centre of which is an ancient bronze 
equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius ; 
and fronting you is the Senatorial Palace 
with a fountain in its facade, adorned 
with gigantic statues of the Tiber and 
the Nile. On your right is the Palazzo 
dei Conservatori, containing a good col- 
lection of paintings, with busts and sta- 
tues ; and near this on the right are an 
effigy called the Trophies of Marius, and 
a column from which distances were 
reckoned on the Appian Way. On your 
left is the Museum of the Capitol, con- 
taining a splendid collection of statuary; 
including the celebrated Dying Gladi- 
ator. Visit the paintings, and as you 
enter, observe the fragments of the 
truly colossal statue of Domitian. Then 
visit the statues, and in the entrance 
to the Museum, observe the colossal 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 141* 

♦ 

statue of Marforio or the Ocean. Climb 
the tower of the Senatorial Palace, where View from the Tower, 
once stood the Citadel of Rome, and 
view the city, observing particularly the 
Tarpeian Hock, directly between you Tarpeian Rock, 
and the river. Then visit the Church of 
Santa Maria dlAracoeli, back of the Mu- s. Maria d'Aracoeii. 
seum, occupying the site of the ancient 
temple of Jupiter Capitolinus, and con- 
taining the porphyry sarcophagus of the 
Empress Helena, mother of Constantine 
the Great, and the Santissimo Bambino, 
an image of the infant Jesus, supposed 
to have the power of working miracles. 
Then passing down the steps by the 
Senatorial Palace, visit the Mamertine Mamertine Prison. 
Prison, with its subterranean dungeons, 
where St. Peter and St. Paul were once 
confined ; and drink of the spring which 
St. Peter is said to have produced there 
by a miracle, that he might baptize his 
jailer. Here Jugurtha died of starva- 
tion ; and here the accomplices of Cati- 
line met their doom. Over this prison 
is now built the Church of St. Joseph, 
otherwise called San Pieto in Oarcere ; San Pieto in Career©, 
and near this still stands the Arch of A r . - QaM „ la 

a j.' • a -ii-T T.i J Arch or Severus. 

beptimius /Severus; behind which was 
the temple of Concord. The three iso- 
lated columns near it are a part of the 
ancient temple of Jupiter Tonans, or, 
according to Niebuhr, of Saturn ; near 
which are eight columns, the remains 
also of the Temple of Fortune, or of 
Vespasian ; the column of Phocas stands 
beyond these, alone. From all these 
ruins the ancient Roman Forum extend- Ruins of the Forum, 
ed southeastward, nearly to the Coliseum ; 
but, before traversing it, turn to the left, 
and visit the Church of St. Adrian, oc- s. Adrian, 
enpying the site of Adrian's temple, or, 
as others say, of the ^Emilia n Basilica ; 



144 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



Ruins of the Forum, anc l the Church of St. Luke, or S. Mar- 
(continued.) ^ belonging to the Academy of 
Painters, with their collection of paint- 
ings adjoining it. 

Proceeding now along the Forum, by 
way of the ancient Via Sacra, you see, 
on the right, three columns, a remnant 
of the Graecostasis, for the reception of 
public ambassadors, or, as others suppose, 
a relic of the Julian Basilica ; and, on 
the left, you pass the temple of Antoninus 
and Faustina ; then the temple of Rom- 
ulus and Remus, the cell of which now 
serves as a vestibule to the Church of 
Saints Cosmo and Damian ; then three 
large arches once supposed to have been 
the temple of Peace, but now known to 
have belonged to the Basilica of Con- 
stantine ; and next you come to the 
Church of Santa Francesca Romana, in 
rear of the temple of Venus and Rome, 
and opposite to the Arch of Titus. Ob- 
serve on this arch the sculpture of the 
golden candlestick, and other vessels, 
brought by Titus from the sacred temple 
in Jerusalem. The high ground thus far 
Palatine Hill. on your right is the Palatine Hill, once 

Palace of the Caesars, the site of the Palace of the Caesars, 
where Nero's golden house stood, with 
his bronze colossal statue, 120 feet high, 
( in front of the vestibule. The front of it 
now contains the Farnese Gardens ; and 
the rear is occupied by the villa of Col. 
Smith, an English gentleman. Visit now 
the Coliseum, or Colosseum, otherwise 
called the Flavian Amphitheatre, begun 
by Vespasian, and finished by Titus alter 
the destruction of Jerusalem ; remember- 
ing, as you view it, that remarkable pre- 
diction of the Anglo-Saxon pilgrims, first 
recorded bv the Venerable Bede : 



Temple of Peace. 



Arch of Titua. 



Coliseum. 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 145 



""While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand ; 
When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall; 
And when Rome falls, the world." 

On the right of this (that is to say, on 
the left side), observe next the Arch ./ Arch of Constantino. 
Constantine; and, in front of it, the Meta 
Sudans, the remnant of an ancient foun- 
tain erected by Domitian. Proceed next 
down the Yia di San Gregorio, the an- 
cient Yia Triumph alis, to the Church of 
San Gregorio ; and then, turning to the 
left, and passing under the Arch of Dola- 
oella, an inferior construction close to the 
Church of St. John and St. Paul, you 
are now on the Catlian Hill, and be- 
tween you and the Coliseum is the site 
of the ancient Curia Hostilia. Continue 
on, to the Church of Santa Maria in 
Dominica, commonly called della JSfavi- 
cella, from the little marble boat in front 
of it, and visit the circular Church of 
San Stefano Botondo, opposite to the s. stefano Rotondo. 
preceding, for its paintings of the early 
martyrs. Returning thence directly to 
the Coliseum, you will still have the 
Curia Hostilia on your left, passing 
around it, and may notice some ruins of 
its ancient walls. 

May 14, Sat. — Proceed again to the 
Coliseum, by any interesting route; and, 
on the Via di San Giovanni, stop first at 
the Church of San Clemente, remarkable s. Ciemente. 
for having preserved the internal arrange- 
ment of the ancient churches. Then 
proceed to the church of St. John Lateran, s. John Lateran. 
in the extreme southeastern part of the 
city, one of the seven basilicas, which 
succeeded to the ancient basilicas, or 
courts of justice, and ranking next to 
St. Peter's in size and importance. It 
stands on the Lateran Piazza, so named 



146 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



from Plautius Lateranus, who resided 
here in the time of Nero ; and adjoining 

Lateran Palace. it, on the north side, is the Lateran 

Palace, one of the three palaces in Rome 
belonging to the Pope. In the piazza is 
an Egyptian Obelisk, the largest one in 
Rome ; and east of the palace, in con- 
nection with the Triclinium, is the cele- 

Scala Santa. brated Scala Santa, said to have been the 

very staircase, brought from the palace of 
Pilate in Jerusalem, by which our Saviour 
ascended to his condemnation ; it is only 
ascended by votaries on their knees, to 
pay their devotions to an ancient picture 
of our Saviour, said to have been paint- 
ed by St. Luke. The gate of St. John, 
near this, takes the place of the ancient 
Porta Asinaria, by which Totila entered 
Rome. Proceed next eastward, to the 

8. Croce in Gerusa- Church of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 
lemme. or ^ ie Holy Cross in Jerusalem, another 

of the basilicas, containing, it is said, a 
part of the very cross on which our 
Saviour was crucified, brought hither by 
the Empress Helena, who founded this 
church to receive it. Close to this, on 
the right, was the ancient Amphitheatre 
Castrense, designed for military festivals ; 
but its remains are nearly hidden by the 
walls of the city and convent. Next 

Porta Maggiore. turn northward, to the Porta Afaggiore, 
built by the Emperor Claudius, in the 
form of a triumphal arch, to adorn his 
aqueduct, which here entered the city. 
Outside of this gate, observe the tomb of 
M. Virgilius Eurysaces, a rich baker, 
with sculptured mementoes of his em- 
ployment, and statues of himself and 
his wife. Passing next the ruins of the 

Minerva Medica. temple of Minerva Medica, still north- 
ward, turn to the left at the Church of 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 14*7 

Santa Bibiana* and you will come to 
the remains of an ancient fountain, called 
the Trophies of Marius, from the sculp- 
ture with which it was adorned. Near 
it, on the right, is the Church of St. Eu- 
sebius, of minor interest ; and northwest 
of these, near the Church of San Vito, 
is the Arch of Gallienus, called also the 
Arco di San Vito, from the name of the 
church. 

Next, proceeding northwestward, visit 
the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, S. Maria Maggiore. 
on the summit of the Esquiline Hill, near 
the ancient temple of Juno Lucina. It 
is another of the seven hasilicas, and one 
of the richest churches in Rome. It is 
distinguished by its tower, and two small 
domes in the rear. Observe the Corin- 
thian column in front of it, bearing a 
bronze statue of the Virgin Mary ; and 
the two chapels which form the tran- 
septs, — the Borghese chapel and that of 
the Holy Sacrament. Then, turning 
south westward, visit the Church of San s. Pietro in Vineoli. 
Pietro in Vineoli, erected to preserve 
the chains which bound St. Peter in 
prison. Here is the celebrated gigantic 
statue of Moses, by Michael Angelo. M.AngeloV Moses." 
"West of this is the Church of San Fran- 
cesco di Paola, of no special interest; but 
the street of this name, leading to the 
church, is the ancient Vicus Sceleratus, 
where Tullia drove her car over the dead 
body of her father. Visit next the Baths Baths of Titus. 
of Titus, southeast of these churches, 
and enter the excavated halls, called 
Sette Sale. Thence turn northwestward, 
and pass the Tor de' Oonti, a lofty tower, 
built in the middle ages ; then the tem- 

* The Church of St. Lorenzo may best be visited in making an 
excursion to Tivoli. 



148 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



Trajan's Forum. 



Palazza Colonna 



Villa Borghese. 



Villa Albani. 



Church Service. 



pie of Pallas, some columns of which are 
yet to be seen; then the remains of the 
Forum and temple of Nerva ; then the 
Baths of Paulus Emilius, a little to the 
east of Trajan's Forum; then Trajan's 
Forum itself, in which the trunks of 
broken columns are still standing, and 
Trajan's Column towers above them, 
with its spiral range of sculpture, the 
model of Napoleon's Column in Paris, 
and you reach, at length, the Palazza 
Colonna, which contains a good collec- 
tion of paintings, and a remarkable piece 
of miniature sculpture, in ivory, by the 
German brothers Steinhart, — a copy of 
Michael Angelo's " Last Judgment," the 
celebrated painting in the Sistine Chapel. 
The Villa Borghese, on the north of the 
city, without the walls, is open to visitors 
on Saturday afternoons, paying the usual 
fee; and the Villa A Ibani, on the north- 
east, may also be seen, by procuring per- 
mission through your guide. You may 
go out by the Porta Solaria, by which 
Alaric entered Eome, and west of which 
is the Mandosi vineyard, within the city, 
occupying the site of the ancient Gardens 
of Sallust ; and, perhaps, you may visit 
the lions Sacer, two miles north of the 
city, before returning. 

May 15, Whitsunday. — Attend the 
morning service at the Sistine Chapel of 
the Vatican, or at the Church of Santa 
Maria Maggiore, to witness the service 
performed by the Pope and Cardinals. 
In the afternoon attend the English 
Chapel, just without the Portal del Po- 
polo. Eome contains upwards of 300 
churches, and nearly as many convents ; 
with nearly 2000 ecclesiastics, including 
bishops, priests, and deacons ; and double 
that number of monks and nuns. 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 149 

Ma ij 1(5, Ji. — Visit first the Baths of Baths of Diocletian. 
Diocletian, on the northeast of the Virni- 
nal Hill. These were the latest built, the 
largest, and most splendid Roman baths ; 
though but a small portion remains. 
The Pinacotheca, originally a picture 
gallery, was converted by Michael An- 
gelo into the noble church of Santa s. Maria degli Angeii. 
Maria degli Angeii, which belongs to 
a Carthusian convent, with extensive 
cloisters. This church contains the 
tombs of Salvator Rosa and Carlo Ma- 
ratta ; with several pictures which were 
the originals of the corresponding mo- 
saics in St. Peter's. The circular church 
of San Bernardo, on the northwest, also 
belonged to the Baths of Diocletian ; and 
north of this is the Fontana delV Aqua 
Felice, or Fontana de 1 Termini, called 
also the fountain of Moses, from his 
statue in the central niche. The Church 
of Santa Maria della Vittoria, near this s. Maria dell. Vittoria 
on the north, contains a painting of the 
Crucifixion by Guido Reni. Returning 
by these, visit the Baroerini Palace, Barberini Palace, 
which contains the celebrated paintings 
of Fornarina by Raphael, and Beatrice 
Cenci by Guido. The Piazza Baroerini, 
northwest of the palace, occupies a part 
of the ancient Circus of Flora, and con- 
tains a fountain by Bernini. Visit this, 
and the Church of the Capuchins north church of the Capu- 
of it, to see the painting of St. Michael chins, 

and the Dragon by Guido ; and the bones 
of the monks piled up in the vaults, as 
the bones are in the catacombs of Paris. 
Proceed next, by way of the Quattro Quattro Fontane. 
Fontane, from which three obelisks are 
visible, to the Piazza di Monte Cavallo, 
on the Quirinal Hill, in front of the Papal Quirinai Hill. 
Palace. Observe the gray granite foun- 
tain, the red granite obelisk, and the two 



150 



OUTLINE TOUR HOME. 



Quirinal Palace. 



Rospigliosi Palace. 



Fountain of Trevi. 



Propaganda. 
Piazzi di Spagna. 



Pincian Hill. 
French Academy. 



Trinita di Monti. 



colossal groups, each representing a man 
and horse, called Castor and Pollux, — 
the work of Grecian sculptors. Then 
visit the Quirinal Palace, built by Greg- 
ory XIII. on the ruins of the Baths of 
Constantine; and hear the music of the 
water organ in the Garden, near the 
workshop of Vulcan. Visit next the 
Rospigliosi Palace, to see the celebrated 
fresco of Aurora, by Guido, and other 
superior paintings. Near this, on the 
south, are the Church of St. Silvester, 
and the Villa Aldobrandini, both of in- 
ferior interest. Turn next, northwest- 
ward, and visit the fountain of Trevi, 
one of the grandest in Rome, adorned 
with a statue of Neptune, and supplied 
with water from the Aqua Virgine, an 
aqueduct brought in from the north by 
Agrippa. Eeturning thence to the Pi- 
azza di Spagna, you may pass the College 
de Propaganda Fide, for educating Ro- 
man missionaries in all languages. In 
the centre of the Piazza di Spagna, so 
called from the residence there of the 
Spanish ambassador, is a fountain called 
the Barcaccia, from its resemblance to a 
boat. Ascend the steps east of this, in 
front of the Church of Trinita di Monti, 
and turning northward view the Public 
Gardens on the Pincian Hill. You pass 
on the right the French Academy, occu- 
pied by French artists who have obtained 
prizes in Paris, and are sent here by the 
French government. Returning, attend 
vespers at the Church of Trinita de 
Monti, attached to a convent, in front of 
which is an Egyptian Obelisk. The mu- 
sic here is said to be very fine. East of 
this is the Villa Liidovisi, belonging to 
Prince Piombino, also on the Pincian 
Hill. 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 151 

May 17, Tu. — Visit first the remains 
of the Mausoleum of Augustus, now oc- 
cupied by the Anfiteatro Corea, in the 
northern part of the city. Near it is the 
Porto Bipetta on the Tiber; passing 
which, visit next the Palazzo Borghese, Palazzo Borghese. 
one of the largest in Rome, containing 
600 paintings; among which are the 
Deposition from the Cross, by Raphael ; 
the Cumaean Sibyl, by Domenichino; 
and a Madonna and infant Jesus, by 
Carlo Dolce. Proceed next, by the Via 
di Campo Marzo, across the ancient 
Campus Martins, or else by the Church Campus Martius. 
of Santf Agostino, containing a picture 
of the Virgin attributed to St. Luke, 
and a fresco of Isaiah by Raphael ; and 
thence visit the celebrated Pantheon, Pantheon, 
or temple to all the gods, erected by 
Marcus Agrippa 27 years before the 
Christian era. This is the most perfectly 
preserved of all the Roman antiquities ; 
and is now used as a Church, dedicated 
to Santa Maria ad Marty res. Observe, 
in the third chapel on the left, the tomb 
of Raphael ; and in front of the Pan- 
theon an obelisk and fountain. Turn, 
next, southeastward, to the Piazza Mi- 
nerva, which has an Egyptian Obelisk 
standing on the back of an elephant, and 
visit the Church of Santa Maria Sopra S. Maria Sopra Mi- 
Minerva, fronting it, which stands on the nerva - 
site of an ancient temple of Minerva built 
by Pompey, and contains the tombs of 
Leo X. and Clement VII., and a statue 
of our Saviour by Michael Angelo. Then 
turn westward by the University or Col- 
legio di Sapienza, to the Piazza Navona, Piazza Navona. 
occupying the site of the Circus Agona- 
lis of Alexander Severus, and still pre- 
serving its ancient form, but now deco- 
rated with three fountains, the central 



152 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



8. Maria della Pace. 



Chiesa Nuova. 



Statue of Pasquino. 



S. Andrea. 



one of which is crowned by an obelisk, 
and decorated with four statues repre- 
senting the rivers La Plata, Ganges, 
Danube, and Nile. Turn thence north- 
westward, to the Church of Santa Maria 
della Pace, to see the fresco there of the 
four Sibyls, by Raphael. They are the 
Curnaean, Persian, Phrygian, and Tibur- 
tine, naming them from the left to the 
right. Proceed next by way of the house 
of Raphael, No. 1245, Via Coronari, and 
visit the Church of Santa-Maria in Val- 
licella, called also Chiesa Nuova or the 
new church, to see the chapel and tomb 
there of San Pilippo Neri, the inventor 
of oratorios, who built this church, in 
the time of Gregory XIII. Returning, 
now nearly to the Piazza Navona, ob- 
serve the celebrated, time-worn statue 
of Pasquino, so named because found 
near the shop of a tailor of this name, 
and remarkable for the placards former- 
ly affixed to it, whence our word pasqui- 
nade. Visit next the Church of St. An- 
drea della Voile, to see the frescoes of 
Lanfranco, and a bronze group represent- 
ing a dead Christ held by their Virgin 
Mary. The Theatre o/Pompey extended 
south west ward from this church to the 



Trinita dei Pellegrini. 



28,000 spectators. Close to it was the 
Curia Pompeia, where Julius Csesar was 
assassinated, and fell "at the feet of great 
Pompey's statue." Proceed next to- 
ward the Janiculan Bridge, and visit 
the Church of Trinita, dei Pellegrini, 
to see the picture of the Trinity by Guido. 
Here the nobles of Rome wash the feet 
of pilgrims during holy week. You may 
return by way of the Palazzo Farnese, 
of minor interest, fronting on the Piazza 
of that name, and may also pass the 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 153 

Campo di Fiore, and the Cancellaria or Cancellaria. 
palace of the Vice Chancellor, where he 
holds his court, memorable also for the 
assassination there of Count Rossi, du- 
ring the late revolution. Adjoining it 
is the Church of San Lorenzo in Damaso, S.Lorenzo, 
containing in the sacristy a statue of St. 
Charles Borromeo, the celebrated arch- 
bishop of Milan. 

May 18, W. — Visit the extreme south- 
ern part of the city and its environs. 
Proceed first to the Forum, turn west- 
ward from the three columns called the 
Graccostasis, and passing the Church of 
San Teodoro, or St. Theodore, observe 8. Teodoro. 
the smaller arch of Septimius Severus, 
erected to him by the goldsmiths, and 
hence called the Arco dei Orefici, near 
the ancient Church of San Giorgio. Op- 
posite to this, a few steps to the left from 
the street, you may see the Cloaca Max- Cloaca Maxima. 
ima, or great sewer, which drained this 
part of ancient Rome, at a place where 
it is open. Just beyond these objects is 
the Arch of Janus Quadrifrons, resting Arch of Janus, 
on four piers, with four fronts alike. 
This vicinity was originally a marsh, and 
was called the Velabrum, a name which 
it still retains. The Forum Boarium or 
cattle market, extended from the Arch of 
Janus nearly to the circular temple of Temple of Vesta. 
Vesta which stands near the Tiber, and 
is now the Church of San Stefano delle 
Carrozze, otherwise called Santa Maria 
del Sole. After visiting this, turn south- 
eastward, by the Via della Circa Massi- 
ma, through the Murcian Valley, and you 
will traverse the site of the ancient Cat- Circus Maxtmus. 
ens Maximus, which was used for chariot 
races. It was 2187 feet long, and 960 
wide ; with seats around it for 200,000 
persons. Here was the scene of the 
8 



154 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



Baths of Caracalla. 



Appian Way. 



Columbarium. 



Domine Quo Vadis. 



Fountain of Egeria. 



Circus of Romulus. 



carrying off of the Sabine women. On 
your left is the Palatine Hill, once 
crowned by the Palace of the Caesars, 
already referred to, one angle of which, 
three stories high, called the Septizonium, 
still remains ; and on your right is the 
Aventine Hill, partly occupied by a 
convent. Pass on, beyond the little 
stream called the Marrana, and then, 
turning to your right, visit the extensive 
remains of the Baths of Antoninus Cara- 
calla, which are called by the one or by 
the other of his names, indiscriminately. 
Then resume the ancient Appian Way, 
and passing the ruin called the tomb of 
the Scipios in the ancient Vigna Sassi, 
visit the Columbarium of Hylas and Vit- 
alina just beyond it, consisting of large 
subterranean rooms, with recesses in the 
walls, like pigeon holes (and hence the 
name), to hold the urns containing the 
ashes of the dead. Proceeding out of 
the city by way of the Arch of Drusus, 
and the gate of St. Sebastian, you come 
next to the Church called Domine Quo 
Vadis, where it is said, St. Peter was 
met by Christ, and asking him, "Lord 
whither goest thou ? " our Saviour is 
said to have replied, "I am going to 
Rome, to be crucified again ; " and to 
have left his foot-prints there upon the 
stone, still shown in the church ! Turn- 
ing next to the left, to the hill called 
Monte oVOro, descend on foot into the 
Valley of Egeria, and you will there see 
the fountain, where it is said king JSTuma 
visited the nymph of this name, and re- 
ceived oracles. Then, take a cross-road 
back to the Appian Way, and visit the 
Circus of Romulus the son of Maxentius, 
which will give a tolerably complete 
idea of an ancient Roman circus. Pro- 



OUTLINE TOUK ROME. 155 

ceed beyond this, to the celebrated tomb 
of Cecilia Metella, who was the wife of Tomb of Metella. 
the wealthy Crassus. Then turn back, 
and, diverging southward, visit the 
Church of St. Sebastian, another of the S.Sebastian, 
seven Basilicas ; and descend into its ex- 
tensive catacombs. Continue southward 
to the Church of St. Paul, another of the s - Paul - 
Basilicas, which was burnt in 1823, and 
is now being sumptuously rebuilt, and 
ornamented by mosaics of all the Popes. 
Returning by the ancient Via Ostiensis, 
and before entering the city by the gate 
of St. Paul, observe the Pyramid of Pyramid of Cestius. 
Cains Cestius, a heathen priest of the 
Augustan age, this being the only pyra- 
mid in Rome. After entering the city, 
turn to the left, and visit the English 
Cemetery, which is used also for Ameri- Cemetery, 
cans, observing particularly the plain 
marble slab, close to the city wall, which 
covers the mortal remains of the poet 
Shelley. The hill west of the cemetery 
is Monte Testaccio, so called from the 
Latin testa, a sherd, on account of the 
fragments of earthenware vases which 
are found there. By climbing now to 
the Church of Santa Maria Aventina, S. Maria, on Aventine 
called also the Prior}', on the Aventine HiU - 

Hill, you may obtain a good view of 
Rome; and near it, on the east, is the 
Church of Santa Saoina, near the temple 
of Juno Eegina, erected by Camillus 
after the taking of Veii. Returning by 
way of the temple of Vesta before men- 
tioned, visit the temple of Fort una Vir- 
ilis, north of this; opposite to which is Ho use of Kienzi. 
the house of Rienzi, near the Vonte Potto, p nte Eotto. 
or remnant of the ancient Palatine 
Bridge, the western half of which is still 
standing. By descending here to the 
shore, you may see the mouth of the 



156 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



Ghetto. 



The Trastevere. 



St. Cecilia. 



Cloaca Maxima. Cloaca Maxima opening into the river 

from the west ; and beyond this the re- 
maining piers of the bridge of Horatius 
Codes, and a little farther southward the 
remains of the ancient Sublician Bridge, 
so called because originally built on piles. 
Looking up stream, you see the island of 
Tiberina, now called San Bartolomeo, 
and the bridges which connect it with 
the shores. In this vicinity is the Ghetto, 
or Jews' quarter of Borne, surrounded by 
walls, the gates of which were formerly 
locked every night to seclude them there. 
May 19, Thursday. — Visit the region 
of Trastevere, west of the Tiber. Pro- 
ceed by way of the Palazzo Mattei, 
which is on the site of the Flaminian 
Circus, and contains many objects of an- 
tiquity ; and visit the site of the Theatre 
of Marcellus, now occupied by a palace 
of the Orsini. This will be on the way 
to the Isola Tiberina above mentioned, 
which you cross by means of two 
bridges, one on each side. The first is 
the ancient Fabrican Bridge, now called 
Ponte dei Quatri Capi; the other is the 
ancient Gratian Bridge, now Ponte di 
San Bartolomeo. Thence visit the 
Church of St. Cecilia, in front of which 
stands a cantharus or large urn, such as 
was placed before ancient churches, for 
purposes of ablution. See the statue of 
St. Cecilia, and the caldron into which 
it is said she was thrown, when it was 
full of boiling oil, but was miraculously 
preserved from it, and afterwards be- 
headed. Then passing southward, by 
the Porto di Ripa Grande, and its cus- 
tom-house, to the Porta Portese, the 
gate beyond it, and thence around the 

St. Maria in Traste- £ reat nos l )ice or asylum of San Michele, 
vere. visit the Church of Santa Maria in Tras- 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 15*7 

tevere, the ceiling of which is curiously 
embossed, and painted with a fresco of 
the Assumption of Dominicheno. The 
Convent of San Gallisto, on the left of 
this church occupies, it is said, the site 
of the ancient house of Tarquin. Ascend 
next the hill of Gianicolo, the ancient 
Janiculum, to the Monastic church of The Janiculum Hill. 
San Pietro in Montorio, which con- San Pietro in Mon- 
tains, within the cloisters, a little chapel, torio - 

built, it is said, on the spot where St. 
Peter was crucified, with his head down- 
wards. Here once belonged the Trans- 
figuration by Raphael, now in the Vati- 
can ; and beneath the altar of this 
church is the tomb of the unhappy Bea- 
trice Cenci. After enjoying the view Fontana p ao]iDa , 
from the terrace, visit next the Montana 
Paolina, so named from Pope Paul Y. 
who built it, using an ancient aqueduct, 
which enters the city from the west to 
supply it with water. Still ascending 
westward, pass out of the city by the 
Porta San Pancrazio, by which the 
French army entered to restore the 
Pope; and visit next the fine Villa yin a Dona. 
Doria Pamphili ; and see its casino, or 
country house ; its columbaria, or tombs, 
and its beautiful grounds. Returning 
by the gate of St. Pancratius, and then 
descending to the left, visit the Corsini Corsini Palace. 
Palace, which, in the writer's opinion, 
contains the best private collection of 
pictures in Rome. Among them are 
five Carlo Dolce's, a Contemplation by 
Guido, and a Madonna and Infant Jesus 
by the great Spanish painter Murillo. 
Visit next the Palazzo Farnesina, near Famese Palace, 
the preceding, belonging to the "King of 
Naples, and containing the celebrated 
fresco, the Assembly of the Olympian 
gods, designed and partly executed by 



158 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



A day at the Vatican 
and St Peter's. 



Raphael. Northwest of these palaces at 
some distance, is the Convent of St. 
Onofrio, where the poet Tasso died, in 
1595 ; and his tomb is in the adjoining 
church. Crossing now the ancient 
Janiculan Bridge, at present called Ponte 
Sisto, and passing the Church of Trinita 
dei Pelegrini, already mentioned, turn 

Spada Palace. to the left, and visit the Palazzo Spada, 

where you may see a Judith, and a Lu- 
cretia by Guido, and especially what is 
supposed to be the identical heroic sta- 
tue of Pompey, once standing in the 
Curia bearing his name, at the feet of 
which fell Julius Caesar, pierced by the 
daggers of the conspirators. 

May 20, Friday. — Engage a seat in 
the diligence for Civita Yecchia, and see 
to vises of passport for leaving Rome. 
Then visit St. Peter's Church and the 
Vatican; which is the Pope's principal 
palace, so named because it stands on 
the Vatican Hill ; and this is supposed 
to take its name from the Yaticinia, or 
predictions which were once delivered 
by the oracles there, when it belonged 
to the Etruscan Veientes. You may go 
over by the JElian Bridge, now called 

Castle of S. Angelo. Ponte SantAngelo, crowned with statues, 
and named from the Castle of St. An- 
gelo, which fronts it on the opposite side. 
This was the ancient Moles Hadriani, or 
Mausoleum of Adrian ; and takes its 
modern name from a statue of the Arch- 
angel Michael, placed on its summit. 
It communicates with the Vatican by a 
covered way, 3,000 feet long. Passing, 
on the left, the Hospital of Santo Spirito, 
the most extensive one in the city, you 

Piazza of St. Peter's, enter the Piazza di San Pletro, with its 
magnificent colonnades, and fountains, 
and an Egyptian Obelisk in the centre. 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 159 

Entering the church, observe the mo- St. Peters. 
saics and statues in the chapels; the 
bronze statue of Peter so much vene- 
rated ; the Confession of St. Peter, a 
hollow inclosure, containing the statue 
of Pope Pius VI. by Canova, this being 
in front of the high altar with its baldae* 
chino or canopy; and observe also the 
Tribune of St. Peter, in the rear of the 
altar, said to contain the very chair in 
which St. Peter sat, supported by statues 
of Saints Augustine, Ambrose, Chry- 
sostom, and Athanasius. Visit next the 
sacristy, and then the crypt called the 
Grotte Vatican, to see the tomb of St. 
Peter, said to contain his body, in the 
Chapel of the Confession, directly under 
the high altar. 

Then visit the Vatican Palace, on the Galleries , "of the Vat- 
right of St. Peter's, a somewhat irre- Ican * 
gular mass of buildings, containing 
several courts and more than 4,000 
rooms. From the rooms where mosaics 
are manufactured, pass along the Gal- 
leria Lapidaria, or corridor, lined with 
ancient inscriptions, to the Hall of Manu- 
scripts and the Library, the books of 

which will probably be invisible, but it 

contains various curiosities. In the 

Borgia chambers you may next see the 

Nozze Aldobrandini, an ancient picture 

of a wedding, once belonging to the 

Aldobrandini family ; on passing this, 

visit the sculpture ; commencing with the 

Chiaramonti Museum, and proceeding to 

the Pio-Clementine, which contains the 

group of Laocoon and the Apollo Belvi- %™™ elviderA 

dere, the two finest pieces of statuary in the * 

world. Visit the Hall of Animals, the Hall 

of the Muses, the Hall of the Greek Cross, 

and the Hall of the Biga, so named from 

a marble chariot, of which the body and 



160 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



Sistine Chapel. 



Galleries of the Vati- ne horse are ancient, the rest modern. 

rSevSardaysTaybe Visit also the Hall of Candelabra, and 
well spent here ] the Georgian Museum of Eoman and 
Etruscan antiquities. Yisit next the 
Gallery of Paintings, a small but rich 
collection, containing the Transfigura- 
tion, and other pictures by Eaphael, and 
the Communion of St. Jerome by Do- 
menichino; these two being regarded 
as the finest pictures in the world. Be- 
yond this is the hall of maps and tapes- 
tries, of some interest ; but far more in- 
teresting are the four Stanze or cham- 
bers of Eaphael, covered with frescoes 
designed by himself, but partly executed 
by his pupils. The Loggie of Eaphael is 
a gallery containing frescoes on the 
ceiling, of scriptural subjects, in which 
Eaphael had a part. Lastly, visit the 
Sistine Chapel, to see the fresco of the 
Last Judgment by Michael Angelo, now 
much defaced ; and attend vespers here 
if it be practicable, to enjoy the music. 
The Pauline Chapel also belongs to the 
Vatican Palace ; and both chapels have 
a common ante-room, the ascent to 
which is by the Scala Regia, or royal 
stairway, leading up from the Piazza of 
St. Peter's. If there be time, you may 
visit the stables of the Vatican contain- 
ing the Pope's carriages ; and it would 
be interesting to return by way of the 

PonteMolle. Ponte Molle, north of the city, where 

Constantine gained his great victory 
over Maxentius. 

Excursion to Tivoli. May 21, Saturday. — Make an excur- 
sion to Tivoli the ancient town of Tibur, 
on the river Teverone, the ancient Anio, 
18 miles northeast of Eome. Go out 
from Eome by the gate of San Lorenzo, 
and visit the Church of San Lorenzo or 
St. Lawrence, outside of the city, and 



[8. Lorenzo.] 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 161 

the last of the seven Basilicas, on the 
way. Observe the marble ambones, 
after the ancient pattern, used for a read- 
ing desk and pulpit, and the confession 
before the altar, as at St. Peter's. Here 
is the tomb of St. Lawrence; and the 
Catacombs of St. Cyriaca extend from 
this church, it is said, to St. Sebastian's. 
Proceeding onward, and crossing the 
Teverone, four miles from Koine, you 
come to Monte Sacro, the ancient Hons rMons Sacer.] 
Sacer, where the offended people, who 
had retired from the city, were once 
appeased by the fable of Menenius 
Agrippa. The ruin near this on your 
left is said to have been an ancient 
Roman arsenal. Passing over the Cam- 
pagna, until 12 miles from the city, 
you may see on the left a little lake, 
called Tartarus, in which the stone 
called travertine is continually form- 
ing by petrifaction. The little canal 
beyond this, with bluish sulphureous 
water, was constructed by Cardinal Ip- 
polito d'Este, to drain the Solfaterra, 
the ancient lake Albulae mentioned by 
Virgil, and said to contain little floating 
islands. The three villas now seen on 
Mt. Ripoli, to the right of Tivoli, are the 
Villa Brechi, belonging to the duke of 
that name; the Villa Santa Croce, be- 
longing to the Jesuits ; and the Villa 
PiomMno, belonging to the prince of 
that name ; the last named being the 
farthest to the right. On your extreme 
right, Fra&eati may be seen among the 
Alban Hills ; and on the left of Tivoli 
are three villages on hill tops, among 
the Sabine mountains; the highest on 
the left being St. Angelo, on the ancient 
Mt. Patulus; the next being Monticelli, 
the ancient Can ina; and the third Pa- 
8* 



162 OUTLINE TOUR ROME. 



[Adrian's Villa.] 



Tivoli. 



lonibana, the ancient Cameria. After 
reorossing the Teverone, and passing 
the ancient tomb of the Plautian family, 
turn to the right, and visit Adrian's 
Villa, some two miles from Tivoli, if 
you have a permit from the Duke of 
Braschi, its owner. Here the Emperor 
Hadrian, or Adrian, built copies of such 
edifices as he had fancied when trav- 
elling abroad ; and the ruins are very 
extensive, including the Greek Theatre, 
the Poecili or philosopher's porch, the 
temple of the Stoics, the Greek and 
Eoman Libraries, the Canopus or temple 
of Serapis, the Palace, and the Cento 
Camarelle, used for barracks. Arriving 
at Tivoli, visit the temple of Vesta, and 
that of the Sibyl near it ; the old and 
new Falls, with the double tunnel 
through a spine of Monte Catillo to the 
latter ; and the grottos of Neptune and 
the Sirens, between the falls. Continue 
around, on the opposite side of the river, 
passing the ancient villas of Catullus, 
Sallust, and Varus, to see the Cascatelle 
or little falls ; the one on the right de- 
scending from the ancient villa of Me- 
camas. Keturn by this villa and the 
villa (VEste, and the temple called della 
Tosse, in the lower part of Tivoli, to re- 
sume your carriage, and go back to 
Rome. 

May 22, Sunday. — Attend service at 
the English Chapel, just without the 
Porta del Popolo ; or at the congrega- 
tional chapel in connection with the 
American Embassy, on the west side of 
the Piazza del Popolo, within the gate. 
You may now rest, after having seen 
thus much of this wonderful city and its 
environs. And although it would be 
pleasnnt to see more, and especially to 



OUTLINE TOUR ROME TO LEGHORN, ETC. 163 

witness the great religious pageants, of 
which you may read or hear full ac- 
counts ; nevertheless, those Avhose time 
is limited should now hasten northward 
to the valley of the Arno, by the short- 
est way, which will be by sea. The 
inland route is interesting ; but will re- 
quire time, which in the writer's opinion 
may be more profitably spent. 

May 23, Monday. — If there be a Route to Florence &c.< 
steamer to-day to Leghorn, leave Eome r *** Civita Vecchia. ' 

, ,.,. X /-«• •? tt l • t ±. 1 [By Vettunno, Dta Sienna 

by diligence for Civita Vecchia, distant orPemgia in 3 to 5 days 
about 46 miles west-northwestward, by for * 8to * 16 -l 
the new road opened in 1847. You go 
out by the Porta Cavallegieri, near St. 
Peter's; and passing Castel di Ghiido, 
12 miles, supposed to be the ancient 
Lorium, where Antoninus Pius was edu- 
cated and died, you approach the Medi- 
terranean at Palo, 25 miles, which has a 
small fortress, and a castle of the 15th 
century, belonging to Prince Odescalchi. 
You come next to Santa Severn, 32 
miles, containing a fortress of the mid- 
dle ages, once belonging to the Orsini, 
but now to the hospital of Santo Spirit?. 8teamer from Civita 
You should arrive at Civita Vecchia in Vecchia to Leghorn, 
time for the steamer from Naples to 
Leghorn ; and before it is dark you may 
pass the island of Giglio, and the pro- 
montory of Mont Argentaro opposite to 
it, having two peaks, one of which is 
crowned by the Convent of Pitiro, be- 
longing to the Passionists. The island 
of Elba is about midway between this 
and Leghorn, opposite to the promon- 
tory of Piombino. 

May 24, Tu.~ You should arrive in Leg- 
horn early in the morning ; the distance 
from Civita Vecchia, being about 140 
miles. If you have alreadyseen the Cathe- 
dral and principal street of Leghorn, be- 



164 



OUTLINE TOUR PISA. 



Pisa. 



Leaning Tower. 



Baptistery. 
Campo Santo. 



Cathedral. 



fore referred to, it will not be worth while 
to linger here any longer ; but proceed at 
once to Pisa, by railroad, in order to 
reach Florence to-day. Pisa is about 14 
miles from Leghorn, and is worth visiting, 
not only for the sake of it&Leoming Toicer, 
which was a Campanile or bell-tower ; 
but also for the sake of the Baptistery, 
which is a large circular dome-crowned 
building ; and the Campo Santo or bury- 
ing ground, the first one which was so 
called, on account of the earth to cover 
it being brought from the Holy Land, 
remarkable also for the corridor and 
wall inclosing it ; and alike worthy of a 
visit is the large Cathedral, to which the 
preceding are appendages. The bronze 
lamp which hangs from the ceiling of 
this cathedral, is the one which by its 
vibrations suggested to Galileo the use of 
a pendulum to measure time, and thus 
led to the invention of modern clocks. 
If you have time at Pisa, visit also the 
Church of San Stefano, or St. Stephen, 
to see the banners and lanterns taken 
from the Turks by the Pisans, in battles 
which are represented on the ceiling. 
Railroad to Florence. Resuming the railroad to Florence, you 
pass up the beautiful Valley of the Arno, 
or, as it is called by Milton, Valdarno ; 
passing Cascina, 10 miles ; Pontedera, 14 
miles; leaving on the right Som Miniato 
on a hill with an old tower; passing next 
Empoli, 35 miles; then Monte Lupo, 38 
miles, with Capraja north of it; and here 
the valley becomes much contracted, but 
widens again as you approach Florence, 
with numerous villages and country- 
seats. At Florence you will find good 
accommodations at the Albergo Grandt 
Bretagne, on the north side of the Arno; 
or at the Hotel dVtalia on the same 



8. Stefano. 



OUTLINE TOUR FLORENCE. I 6n 

side; and perhaps cheaper quarters in flork 
the Hotel de York, or in the Grand Ho- 
tel de New - York, or in the Hotel de V Eu- 
rope, Piazza Santa Trinita. 

May '!■>, W. — Proceed to the Piazza 
del Oram Duea, and observe the palace 
once occupied by the Grand Duke, now 
called the Palazzo VecrJiio, on the east Palazzo Vecchio. 
side, with two heroic statues in front of 
it; David, by Michael Angelo, and Her- 
cules subduing Cacus by Rossi ; and a 
fountain on the left of it, with a stat- 
ue of Neptune, surrounded by tritons, 
nymphs, and satyrs. The bronze eques- 
trian statue on the left of this, is of 
Cosmo I., the great head of the family. 
Observe next on the right of the palace, 
the Loggia d.V Lanzi, a covered area Loggia di'Lanzi. 
containing statues of Judith, in bronze, 
by Donatello; Perseus, in bronze, by 
Cellini ; a Centaur ; Ajax dying ; the 
seizure of a Sabine woman; Priestesses, 
and other sculpture. Passing the Loggia, 
enter the Uffizii, containing the Roy a I Royal Gallery. 
Gallery of Sculpture and Painting: and, 
in passing through this vast collection, 
observe particularly in the room culled 
the Tribune, the Venus de Medici, and 
four other statues, the Wrestlers, the 
Knife-whetter, the Dancing Faun, and 
the Apollino ; with two Madonnas and 
a St. John by Raphael, as also his 
Bella Fornarina, and other remarkable 
pictures. In the second room north of 
this, is a picture by Bronzino of Christ 
descending into Hades, to release the 
spirits in prison. Observe in the west 
wing of the Uffizii, the remarkable col- 
lection of statues representing tfiobe and 
her children. Visit also the Maglia- Library. 
bechian Library, in the Uffizii, under the 
Royal Gallery, containing 150,000 vol- 



166 



OUTLINE TOUR FLORENCE. 



Santa Croce. 



Cascine. 



Pitti Palace. 



Roboli Gardens. 



S. Maria Novella. 



umes of books and upwards of 12,000 
manuscripts. After this, visit the Church 
of Santa Croce, east of the Palazzo Vec- 
chio, containing the tombs of Michael 
Angelo, Dante, Alfieri, Machiavelli, and 
other distinguished persons ; and observe 
particularly, in the front chapel of the 
north transept, the tomb of the Polish 
Countess Czartorysky. Ride to the Cas- 
cine, the fashionable drive being to this 
country-seat of the Grand Duke. 

May 26, Th.— Visit the Pitti Palace, 
south of the Arno, and inspect its splen- 
did collection of paintings. Observe, in 
the fourth room, the celebrated Madon- 
na delta Seggiola, and the Holy Family 
called del Impannata, by Raphael ; and 
' St. Peter in Tears,' by Carlo Dolce. In 
the fifth room are two Madonnas by 
Murillo, one of which is a duplicate of 
that in the Corsini Palace at Rome. In a 
back room is the statue of Venus, by Ca- 
nova,partly draped, and all the more beau- 
tiful. Visit next the Royal Museum, one 
of the finest in Europe, beyond the Pitti 
Palace in the same street. It is devoted 
to Natural History, Natural Philosophy, 
and Anatomy ; and contains the most 
revolting representations of the Plague, 
as once witnessed in Milan, in Florence 
and in Rome. Observe particularly the 
room called the Tribune, consecrated to 
the memory of Galileo, and the Italian 
philosophers of whom Tuscany was the 
home. Visit the Boboli Gardens, in rear 
cf the Pitti Palace, open to the public 
only on Sundays and Thursdays. 

May 27, Fr.— Visit first the Church 
of Santa Maria Novella, belonging to the 
Dominicans, which Michael Angelo ad- 
mired so much that he is said to have 
called it his bride. Observe the quad- 



OUTLINE TOUR FLORENCE. 16*7 

rant dial and armillary dial projecting 
from the wall; and visit the cloisters. 
The Spezeria attached to it, built for the 
entertainment of travellers, now serves 
as a dispensary of medicine to the poor. 
Visit next the Church of San Lorenzo, to s. Lorenzo, 
see the statue of Giovanni de 1 Medici in 
front of it, and the two chapels attached 
to it ; the Royal Medicean Chapel, con- 
taining the frescoes of Benevenuti : and 
the Chapel of Michael Angelo, so called 
because he designed it, and executed the 
statues within it of Giuliano de Medici 
on the right, with figures representing 
day and night ; and Lorenzo de Medici 
on the left, with figures of dawn and 
twilight. Thence, passing the Palazzo 
Riccardi, where the Academia della Aca <? r 1 j22j! 1 f ella 
Crusca still holds its meetings, and visit- 
ing the Academia delle Belle Arti, of 
minor interest, stop at the Royal Manu- 
factory of Pietra Dura, or Florentine Mosaic Manufactory. 
Mosaics. Visit next the Church of the 
Annunziata ; which is remarkable for s. Annunziata. 
having an atrium or cloistered court in 
front, through which is the entrance to 
the church. Observe the Loggie, or Loggie. 
open galleries on each side of the piazza 
fronting this church ; and in the centre 
of the piazza a bronze equestrian statue 
of Ferdinand L, made of cannon taken 
from the Turks by the knights of St. 
Stephen ; the artist being Susini. Visit 
next the Duomo or Cathedral, which takes Cathedral, 
the name of Santa Maria del Fiore, re- 
ferring probably to the lily, from which 
flower Florence is thought to have taken 
its name. The dome of this cathedral, 
188 feet in diameter and 133 in height, 
is the largest in the world. Observe 
over the left front door, within, a fresco 
painting of Giovanni Acutus, the English 



168 



OUTLINE TOUR FLORENCE, 



Sir John Hawkwood, who from a tailor 
became a general, and rendered great ser- 
vice to the Florentines. The octagonal, 
dome-crowned building in front of the 

Baptistery. cathedral, is the Baptistery ; the bronze 

doors of which on the north and east, 
by Ghiberti, are so finely designed and 
executed, that Michael Angelo declared 
them worthy to be the gates of Paradise. 

Campanile. The Campanile or bell-tower is 275 feet 

high, and ornamented with curious sculp- 
ture. Visit next the curious church 

Or s. Micheie. called ' Or San Michele, originally a gran- 

ary, and hence the name, contracted 
from Horreum Sancti Michaelis, but now 
adorned with statues on the exterior 
wall, and said to contain a tabernacle 
within, inclosing a miracle-working pic- 
ture of the Madonna. Lastly, visit the 
Corsini Palace, said to contain the best 
private collection of paintings in Flor- 
ence. Make an excursion to Fiesole, 
celebrated by Milton as the place where 
Galileo used his newly-invented tele- 
scope, and commanding a beautiful view 
of Florence and the Yal d'Arno. Back 
of the cathedral at Fiesole, observe the 
remains of Cyclopean walls, built of mas- 
sive stones without mortar. Eeturning, 

Porta s. Gaiio. enter the city by the Porta San Gallo, 
and observe the curious tower near it 
on the wall, and the triumphal arch in 
front of it, erected to commemorate the 
entrance of Francis II. Should you stay 
in Florence over Sunday, you will find 
an English chapel in the Maglio, back of 
San Marco. 

Railroad to Bologna. May 28, Sat— Leave Florence for 
Bologna, by railroad and diligence ; the 
former taking you to Pistoia, and the 
diligence the rest of the way. You pass 
Sesto. 7 miles, and Prato, 12 miles, before 



Corsini Palace. 



Fiesole. 



OUTLINE TOUR FLORENCE TO BOLOGNA. 169 

reaching Pistoia, 20 miles by railroad. Florence to Bologna. 
This is the town where pistols were in- 
vented, and from which they took their 
name. It is compact, and walled, and 
has a cathedral with a large dome, and 
one lofty church tower besides. From 
thence there is a fine new road over the 
Apennines ; and the diligence quits 
Pistoia without entering its walls, but 
affords fine views of it in ascending the 
mountains. The ascent to the summit of 
the Apennines is not more than 8 miles 
in a straight line ; but nearly twice as 
far by the windings of the road. Thence 
you descend the valley of the river Reno, 
amid grand scenery ; and the first village 
which you notice is Samouca, about 20 
miles from Pistoia, built on the steep 
mountain side on your left, and accessi- 
ble only by mules. Observe near it the 
vertical strata of serrated rocks. After 
passing the frontier custom-houses, and 
again entering the Papal States, you stop 
at Poretta to dine. After this, you pass 
a curious rock on an eminence on the 
right, resembling the half of a circular 
castle in ruins. After changing horses 
at Vergata, about 36 miles, observe 
another projecting brow of rock over- 
hanging the road before you, resembling 
a fortress ; and beyond this, another mass 
of rock, separated from the main spur,and 
when first seen, having much the contour 
of the head of the Sphynx. After this, the 
country becomes more gentle and level ; 
with handsome country-seats. Before 
reaching Bologna, observe the Church of 
St. Luke, standing on the hill-top on the 
right, with an arcade extending down 
from it to the city, a distance of 2 or 3 
miles. You cross another arcade, be- 
longing to the Gampo Santo, before en- 



170 OUTLINE TOUR BOLOGNA. 

Bologna. tering the walls of Bologna; and may 

find good quarters at the Albergo de San 
Marco, or perhaps at the Swiss Hotel, or 
the Hotel de la Pelerin. The distance 
from Pistoia hither is about 56 miles. 

May 29, Sunday. — You will probably 
find no English service in Bologna, but 
may attend the cathedral, or have yonr 
choice of nearly 100 churches of the 
Roman obedience. Most of these church- 
es contain some paintings, or other works 
of art, possessing at least a local or ar- 
tistic interest; but the ordinary trav- 
eller will probably begin to be wearied 
with the repetition, of Madonnas and 
Saints, and be inclined henceforward to 
limit his efforts, and to see those only 
which are most select and striking. It 
may be allowable, perhaps, to go out by 
the gate of Saragossa, where a magni- 
ficent arch is erected as an entrance to 
the portico or arcade of 685 arches, and 
nearly three miles long, leading up to 
the Church of the Madonna of St. Luke, 
and to visit this church, already referred 
to, which is said to contain an image of 
the Virgin Mary by St. Luke himself. 
The arched or covered sidewalks of Bo- 
logna have given it the appellation of 
"the city of arcades." 

May 30, M. — Proceed first to the 
Fountain of Neptune, in the very centre 
of the city, near the northwest corner of 

Palazzo del Podesta, the Piazza Maggiore. Fronting this foun- 
tain on the east is the Palazzo del Po- 
desta, in which King Euzius, a natural 
son of the Emperor Frederick II. of Ger- 
many, was imprisoned many years be- 
fore his death. Proceed next southward 
into the Piazza just named, and observe, 

Palazzo Maggiore fronting it on the west, the Palazzo 
Maggiore, the residence of the Papal 



OUTLINE TOUR BOLOGNA. l7l 

Legate, and of the Senator of Bologna, 
with a bronze statue of Pope Gregory 
XIII. in a niche on its front. On the 
south side of this Piazza is the Church 
of San Petronio, which covers more s. Petronio. 
ground than St. Peter's in Rome, but is 
unfinished, externally, and fails in height 
and proportions ; having been commen- 
ced in the Gothic style. On the floor of 
this church, commencing at the left of 
the central door, is a meridian, traced in 
brass and marble, by Cassini the astron- 
omer. Visit next the Church of San s. Dominico. 
Dominico, south or southeast of the pre- 
ceding, and you will see the handsomest 
church in Bologna, containing the tombs 
of St. Dominic, Guido Reni, and King 
Eusius or Hensius above named, who 
was buried here after he died in prison. 
Observe also the fresco painting of Par- 
adise by Guido. The Piazza di San 
Domenico^ adjoining this church, is adorn- 
ed with statues of St. Dominic and the 
Madonna del Rosario placed on columns. 
Then, turning northeastward, visit the 
Church of San Stefano, or St. Stephen, s. Stefano. 
on the street of the same name. This is 
the oldest church in Bologna, and con- 
sists of seven churches and chapels 
united, but without any pretensions to 
beauty. It contains some Greek frescoes 
of the 12th or 13th century, and the 
marble tomb of St. Petronius, who is 
said to have imparted miraculous prop- 
erties to the water of a well here. Pro- 
ceeding now northwestward, and passing 
the Foro dei Mercanti, a slight specimen 
of the Italian Gothic style, you come to 
the two leaning towers of Bologna; the Leaning Towers. 
Torre Asinelli, 256 feet high, resembling 
a shot tower ; and the Torre Garisenda, 
much older, and only 130 feet high, 



172 



OUTLINE TOUR BOLOGNA. 



S. Giacomo. 



University. 



which leans so much as to seem danger- 
ous. 

Next, turning northeastward visit the 
church of San Giacomo Maggiore, or St. 
James the Greater, belonging to the 
Augustinian Friars. Observe there a 
wax figure of Christ on the cross, as 
large as life, and the Angel Eaphael and 
Madonna near it. Visit next the Uni- 
versity of Bologna, in the same direc- 
tion, and see its extensive Museum and 
Library. The writer would here re- 
cord his obligations to the librarian, 
Signor Liborio Yeggetti, for very kind 
attentions. The preceding librarian 
was Mezzofanti, afterwards a Cardinal, 
and celebrated for his knowledge of 
languages, of which he was able to 
speak 42, before his death in 1849. 
Observe the monument of Galvani, who 
made his great discovery in this uni- 
versity ; and the portraits of Laura Bassi 
and Clotilda Tamberoni, who were dis- 
tinguished female professors here. Climb 
the Observatory, and you will have a 
fine view of the city. Visit next the 

Academia deile Belle Academia delle Belle Arte, in the same 
Arte. vicinity, and you will see one of the 

best collections of paintings in Italy ; 
including several pictures by Domeni- 
chino and Guido Keni ; St. Cecilia 
by Eaphael ; a Madonna and Cherubs 
by Perrugino, the master of Raphael; 
and a picture of God the Father, re- 
presented as an old man ! painted by 
Guercino in a single night ! Visit 
next the Piazza WArmi, and public 
garden, in the north part of the city ; 

Cathedral. and return by way of the Cathedral, 

which is named from St. Peter, and con- 
tains, in the 6th chapel on the left an 



OUTLINE TOUR FERRARA. 1 V 3 

Annunciation, the last painting of Lo- 
dovico Caracci. 

May 31, Tuesday. — Proceed toFerrara Bologna to 
by diligence or vettura, the distance be- 
ing about 33 miles. The country is flat, 
and before crossing the Reno, you have 
a canal along the side of the road, as in 
the Pontine Marshes. You pass Capo 
oVArgine at 10 miles from Bologna ; and 
near Malabergo, about 22 miles, you 
cross the river Reno on a wooden bridge ; 
the water being higher than the adja- 
cent land, but retained by embankments. 
Arriving at Ferrara, you will find quar- Feerara. 
ters at the Albergo d^Europa, or at the 
TreMori, that is to say the Three Moors. 
The chief interest of Ferrara arises from 
its connection with the family of D'Este, 
from which Queen Victoria is lineally 
descended ; and the city is still inte- 
resting, although it has suffered a great 
decline. Visit first the Hospital of St. 
Anne, to see the cell where Tasso was Pinacotheca. 
long confined. Visit next the Pina- 
cotheca or Picture Gallery, if you have 
time, although it contains but little to 
admire. Observe the picture of Hugo 
and Parisina, who have been immortal- 
ized by Byron. Then visit the Castle, castle. 
which was once the Palace of the Dukes 
of Ferrara, and see the horrid dungeons 
where Hugo and Parisina were respec- 
tively confined, until she was poniarded 
in the dungeon, and Hugo was beheaded 
in the castle yard. This building is now 
the residence of the Papal Legate. 
Visit next the Cathedral, named from Cathedral. 
St. Paul ; and observe the change in the 
architecture of its front from the Roman 
to the Gothic style, as the work pro- 
gressed. Observe in the choir a paint- 
ing of the last Judgment, by Bastiani, 



174 



OUTLINE TOUR PADUA. 



Tribunali. 



S. Francesco. 



Journey to Padua. 



Rovigo. 



a favorite pupil of Michael Angelo, 
much resembling that in the Sistine 
Chapel at Eome, but not a mere copy. 
On the right of the Cathedral is the 
Palazzo del Tribunali, also in the Gothic 
style, except the tower, in which is a 
clock having the dial divided into 24 
hours. Visit next the Church of San 
Francesco, and listen to the echo under 
any one of its truncated domes, repeat- 
ing your voice audibly as many as 16 
times. It may be worth while also to 
visit the Piazza Ariostea, containing the 
statute of Ariosto, and the houses of 
this poet and Guarini, if time permit. 

June 1, Wednesday. — Proceed to Pa- 
dua, by diligence or vettura ; the dis- 
tance being about 55 miles. At Ponte 
di Lago Scuro, about 6 miles from Fer- 
rara, you cross the river Po by a flying 
bridge, to Santa Maria or Madalena, 
where you will find the Austrian cus- 
tom-house; this being on the frontier 
of the kingdom of Lombardy and Venice. 
You follow the Po, and will notice its 
high embankments, to Polesella, 15 
miles; and then turn northward to 
Rovigo, 25 miles, where is a cathedral, 
now the seat of the bishop of Adria; 
and in the Piazza before the Palazzo del 
Podesta, is a column on which once 
stood the winged lion of St. Mark. On 
the margin of the town there is also a 
circular chapel of the Madonna, filled 
with votive offerings. You next cross 
the Adige, by a flying bridge, at Boara, 
about 5 miles farther ; and crossing a 
smaller stream at Stainghella, you come 
next to Monselice, about 40 miles, con- 
spicuous by its mountain, with an old 
castle on the summit, and another hill 
beyond it. And now }-ou have a 



OUTLINE TOUR PADUA. 1 7i 

straight road, about 15 miles farther, 
passing the villa of the Baroness Winffn, 
at Battaggia, and the Palazzo Obizzo with 
battlements, belonging to the Duke of Mo- 
dena, on the left ; and the Palazzo Mene- 
ghini at Cattajo on the right, with statues 
on the roof; all within an hour's ride of 
Monselice. On approaching Padua, you 
will notice the church of Santa Giustina, 
with its numerous domes and campa- 
nile ; and, on entering the city, you will 
pass between this church and the Prato 
delta Valle, a splended oval walk or 
area, adorned with 80 marble statues, 
representing the great men of Italy in 
general, and of Padua in particular. 
Two of them were sculptured by Canova. 
You may stop, in Padua, at the Albergo Padua. 
delta Stella d'Oro, that is to say the 
Golden Star, or the Golden Eagle, or the 
Golden Cross. If you intend returning 
hither from Venice, and are anxious to 
see that famous city of the sea, the 
curiosities of Padua may as well be seen 
after your return. But you may have 
time to revisit the Prato della Valle, and 
may take refreshments at the Cafe 
Pedrocchi, said to be the finest of the 
kind in Italy ; noticing the arcades of 
Padua, which are like those of Bologna. 

June 2, Thursday.— Leave Padua for Eai i roa(J to Venice. 
Venice, by railroad ; the distance being 
23 miles, or perhaps more. The chief 
places on the way are Ponte di Brenta, 
where the river Brenta is crossed ; 
Polo, nearly half w r ay, and Mestre, from 
which the railroad turns southeastward 
to Venice, entering the city by means 
of a stone bridge across the Lagoon, con- The Lagoon, 
sisting of 222 arches, and nearly 2 miles 
and a quarter in length. It was com- 
pleted in 1845, and cost nearly a million 



176 



OUTLINE TOUR VENICE. 



VENICE. dollars. The best hotels in Venice are 
the ATbergo Danieli, near the ducal Pal- 
ace, and the ATbergo delV Eurojpa, near 
the Piazza of St. Mark. The former 
was the Mocenigo Palace ; the latter 
was the Palazzo Giustiniani. The Leone 
Bianco or White Lion, is also well re- 
commended, but is near the Kialto 
bridge, in a less sightly location. 

After procuring lodgings, take a 
guide* and a gondola, the most luxuri- 
ous of all conveyances ; and traverse the 
Grand Canal. Starting from the Piaz- 
zetta, near the Ducal Palace, and pro- 
ceeding westward, you will notice on 
the left the Dog ana or Custom-house, 
and near it the church and Piazza of 
8. Maria della Salute. Santa Maria della Salute, and the old 
Church of St. Gregory, now used for 
melting bullion for the mint. Next ob- 
serve, on the right, the Palazzo Giusti- 
niani, now the Hotel of Europe, already 
mentioned; and beyond it the Palazzo 
Treves, formerly Emo, containing mo- 
dern pictures, and the statues of Hector 
and Ajax by Canova ; as also the Pa- 
lazzo Corner, in Koman style, now 
occupied by the provincial govern- 
ment. After this, you have on the left 
the Palazzo Dario ; and on the right the 
Palazzo Cavalli, now belonging to the 
Duke of Bordeaux. You come next, on 
the left, to the Academia delle Belle Arte, 
or Eoyal Gallery, containing more than 
500 paintings, and numerous busts and 
statues, .but not superior to the galleries 
already seen. Observe here the As- 
sumption by Titian ; and the Fishermen 
presenting to the Doge the miraculous 



Academy of Fine 
Arts. 



* Tho writer would warmly recommend as a guide Emman- 
uel, who may probably be found at the Hotel Danieli. 



OUTLINE TOUR VENICE* 177 

ring brought to him by St. Mark, — a Palaces on the Grand 
picture by Paris Bordone. Proceeding 
along the Grand Canal, you pass succes- 
sively the Palazzo Giustiniani Lobin, on 
the right, now the residence of Madame 
Taglione the danseuse; and the Palazzo 
Eezzonico, on the left, where the In- 
fanta of Spain now resides ; opposite to 
which is the Palazzo Grassi^ now the 
Grand Hotel deTEmpereur d'Autriche. 
Next on the left is another Palazzo 
Giustiniani, now the residence of Schia- 
vone the painter; and after this the 
Palazzo Foscari, celebrated for the mis- 
fortunes of the Doge of that name, its 
ancient lord, but now used for barracks* 
Still on the left at the angle of the canal, 
is the Palazzo BalM, in Roman style, 
where Napoleon lodged when consul; 
and beyond this on the right, are the 
Palazzo Contarini, once a doge's ; and 
the Palazzo Mocenigo, where Lord By- 
ron resided when in Venice. Next on 
the left is the Palazzo Pisani, in Ara- 
besque Gothic style, containing the pic- 
ture by Paul Veronese of the family of 
Darius supplicating Alexander the Great. 
The Barbarigo Palace is next on the left, 
and was once rich in paintings which 
have been sold and dispersed. After 
tliis, on the right is the Palazzo Spi- 
nelli, now belonging to Madame Tag- 
lioni, who is said to own four palaces 
in Venice. Passing the palaces of Ber- 
nardo, and Tiepolo, on the left, the 
latter containing the Naui collection of 
antiquities, you come next on the right 
to the Palazzo Grimani, in Roman styJe, 
now the Post Office, but once the seat 
of great splendor, when its owner was 
elected doge, and his duchess receiv- 
ed from the Pope a golden rose, the 
9 



178 OUTLINE TOUR VENICE, 

Palaces on the Grand badge of sovereignty. Opposite to thi& 

Canal, continued. . g the p alazz0 Butindlo, belonging to 

Madame Taglioni ; and beyond these on 
the right are the Palazzo Loredano, and 
the Palazzo Manin ; between which 
once stood the house of the Doge Dan- 
dolo, the place of which is marked by 
a stone in the wall. This brings you to 
the celebrated bridge across the Grand 
Canal, called the Rialto \ a name con- 
tracted from Rlvo Alto, or the deep 
stream. 

Proceeding still along the Grand Canal 
westward, you have immediately on the 
left the Palazzo dei CamerlingM, or 
Palace of the Chamberlains, now used 
for the Tribunal of Appeal, and other 
government offices ; and immediately on 
the right is the principal Custom-house r 
once the Fondaco de Tedeschi, or factory 
for the Germans and other foreign mer- 
chants, still containing the faded frescoes 
of Giorgione and Titian. After these, 
you pass on the right the Casa d'Oro, or 
Palazzo Co? oV Qro, in the Gothic style, 
and now belonging to Madame Taglioni. 
Next, on the left, should be noticed, the 
Palazzo Cornaro, once the residence of 
the Queen of Cyprus, after she had mar- 
ried a Cornaro, but now a Monte di Pieta, 
or savings bank and pawnbroker's shop. 
Next, on the left, observe, in succession,, 
the Palazzo Pesaro, which was for a 
time the Arminian College ; the Palazzo 
Trono, now a private museum ; and the 
Church of San Stae. Next you have, 
on the right, the Palazzo Vendramini, 
which was owned successively by the 
Duke of Brunswick and the Duke of 
Mantua; but is now the property and 
residence of the Duchess of Berri. Then, 
on the left, you have the Fondamento 



OUTLINE TOUK— VENICE, 170 

del Turchi, once the resort of Turkish 
merchants, but now a storehouse of to- 
bacco for the troops; and the Palazzo 
Correra^ containing the Raccolta Cor- 
rera, a library, and public museum. 
Next, observe the Church of San Gere' 
mia ) or St. Jeremy, with its tower, on 
the right; and the Palazzo Labia, on 
the same side, at the fork of the Cana- 
reggio : which is a subordinate but prom- 
inent canal, diverging northward. You 
come next, on the right, to the Church 
of the Scalzi, noted for its wealth ; and Tlie Scal7t - 
after this to the Railroad Station^ oppo- 
site to which, on the left, is the Church 
of San Simons il Piccolo, surmounted by 
a dome. After this, you have the Church 
of Santa Lucia on the right ; and, on the 
left the Garden of Papadopoli, a Greek 
merchant, with its Casa, in Gothic style, 
at the first corner, once a monastery. 
Last, and on the left, is the island of 
Santa Chiara, or St. Clara, on which is 
a military hospital ; and now you emerge 
into the Lagoon, and will have a fine 
view of the Railway Bridge, already de- TheLa S oon ' 
scribed. 

Then, turning southward, coast along 
the Campo di Marte, or parade ground, 
and return by way of the Canal delta 
Gindecca, which should rather be named 
a strait than a canal, on account of its 
great width, and which separates the 
extreme southern part of the city, called 
the Gindecca, once the Jews' quarter, 
from the Rialto, which is the part be- 
tween this and the Grand Canal. The 
principal churches here seen are Santa 
Maria del Rosario, on the north, and II 
Saintissimo Redentore, or the Most Holy 
Redeemer, on the south, which was built 
by the republic, ex voto, after the cessa- 



180 OUTLINE TOUR VENICE* 

tion of the plague in 1576, .and is worthy 
of a visit now, if you have time. Venice 
is built on 72 islands, and has 145 canals, 
112 wooden bridges, 327 stone bridges, 
and numerous narrow streets, called Calle, 
for foot passengers alone. In the whole 
Lagoon there are 66 islands, besides those 
on which the city is built. There is the 
group of Murano on the northeast, noted 
for its glass works ; on the east, are 
Santa Elena, Certosa, and Vignole, be* 
tween the city and the Lido, or entrance 
to the harbor ; on the southeast, are San 
Servolo and San Lazaro, the latter con- 
taining an Arminian Convent; on the 
south are La Evasia, San Clemente, San 
Spirito, and Poveglia ; and on the south- 
west are Alga and Polvere, not to speak 
of those more distant, as Palestrina and 
Chioggia, 25 miles southward, to which 
an excursion may be made by steam- 
boat. 

June 3, Fr.— Visit the Ducal Palace, 
and the Basilica of St. Mark adjacent to 
it. The Piazzetta di San Marco is the 
open space between the Ducal Palace on 
the north and the Biblioteca Antica on 
the south, once a library, but now the 
residence of the Governor - General. 
South of this is the Giardino Reale, laid 
out by Bonaparte, and designed for pub- 
lic use, but now attached to a Royal or 
Viceregal palace there. Observe, near 
the shore, here called the Molo, the two 
granite columns in front of the Piazzetta, 
bearing the winged lion of St. Mark and 
the statue of St. Theodore. Enter the 
Palace of the Deges, Ducal Palace from the Piazzetta, by the 
Porta della Carta, and you will be shown 
in the court the spot where the Doge 
Marino Falieri was beheaded. Then, 
ascending the Staircase of the Giants, 



Piazfca of St. Mark, 



OUTLINE TOUR VENICE. 181 

observe those holes in the wall, once in Doge's Palace, 
the shape of lions' mouths, where secret 
accusations were deposited against any 
person by any accuser. Passing the 
Scala d'Oro, observe, in the great Council 
Chamber, the painting of Paradise, by 
Jacopo Tintoretto, one of the largest 
pictures in the world ; and, around the 
frieze, portraits of all the earlier Doges, 
except Marino Falieri, whose allotted 
space is painted black, with the inscrip- 
tion, u Hic est locus Marini Falethri, de- 
capitati pro criminibus." Here also are 
other good paintings, and a library, 
which was commenced by Petrarch and 
Cardinal Bessariou presenting their books 
to the republic. Visit next the Hall of 
Scrutiny, containing the remaining por- 
traits of the Doges and other historical 
paintings. The other principal rooms 
to be visited are the Museum, containing 
a fine collection of statuary, and the Hall 
of Shields, containing some curious old 
maps, including that of the World, by 
Fra. Mauro, in 1460; the Sala clella Bus- 
sola, or Hall of the Compass, so named 
from a statue of Venice holding a com- 
pass; the Chamber of the Council of 
Ten; the Hall with Four Doors; the 
Sala del Pregadi, or Senate Chamber ; 
the Sala del Collegio, or presence cham- 
ber, where the Doge received foreign 
ambassadors; the Ante Collegio, or guard 
room, and the Hall of the Council of 
Three, where three judges met and pro- 
nounced sentence on prisoners secretly 
brought before them from the dungeons. 
Observe in this room the lone and horrid 
painting of the Infernal Regions. Then 
visit the Pozzi, or dungeons, and the 
Bridge of Sighs, leading over to the Bridge of Sighs, 
prison north of the Ducal Palace ; and 



182 OUTLINE TOUR VENICE. 

the Sotto Piombi, or prisons under the 
leads, being those immediately beneath 
the roof. 

Vicinity of St. Mark's. Thence visit the Basilica, or Cathedral 
Church, of St. Mark, fronting on the 
Piazza di San Marco, on its eastern side. 
On the north side of this piazza is the 
range of buildings, called Procuratie- 
Vecchie, formerly inhabited by the pro- 
curators of St. Mark; and, near the east 
end of it, is a clock-tower, surmounted 
by two bronze figures of men, called 
Moors, who hold each a hammer, and 
may be seen striking the hours on the 
bell. On the south side of the piazza are 
the Procuratic Nuove, which was the 
palace of Eugene Beauharnais; and on 
the west side is a range of buildings, 
erected by Napoleon, and once adorned 
by his statue, on the facade, between 
those of the Roman emperors, which 
still remain. Between the piazza and 

Campanile. tne piazzetta stands the Campanile, or 

bell tower, which should be ascended 
just before noon, to see the feeding of 
the pigeons, and to enjoy the view. 
This tower is surmounted by a pyramid, 
and crowned with the winged figure of 
an angel : in all 323 feet high. Near 
this is the Shame Stone, where insolvent 
debtors were formerly exposed with hu- 
miliating ceremonies. The Church of 

St. Mark's Cathedral. St. Mark has 500 columns, mostly By- 
zantine or oriental ; and the choir is 
separated from the nave by a rich screen, 
supporting statues of the Twelve Apos- 
tles, the Virgin Mary, and St. Mark. In 
a chapel on the right of the vestibule is 
shown the Rock from which Moses drew 
water; and, in the baptistry, the Stone 
on which John the Baptist was behead- 
ed! Over the high altar is a rich bal- 



OUTLINE TOUR VENICE. 183 

daechino-, and beneath the altar, it is 
said, rest the remains of St. Mark, brought 
from Alexandria in baskets, and con- 
cealed by covering them with pork. 

Yon may then take a gondola, and 
visit the Church of Santa Maria Glo- 
riosa, commonly called / Frari, in the <^urch ottha Frarf 
western central part of the city. It con- 
tains a monument to Canova, designed 
by him for Titian, and a splendid monu- 
ment to Titian likewise, newly erected ; 
besides monuments to the Doge Foscari, 
to Nicolo Trono, to Giovanni, and Bene- 
detto Pesaro, and numerous others. The 
altar piece is The Assumption, by Sal- 
viati, copied from that of Titian, once 
here, but carried off by the French, and 
now in the Academy. Returning, you 
may visit the Church of Santa Maria S. Maria della Salute. 
della Salute, on the eastern part of the 
Rialto Island : that is to say, between 
the Grand Canal and the Canal of Giu- 
decca. It was ereeted, by a decree of 
the Senate, passed in 1632, in thanks- 
giving for the cessation of the great 
plague, which swept away 60,000 in- 
habitants of the city. Observe, back of 
the altar, the sculptured representation of 
Venice supplicating the Virgin Mary to 
drive away the Plague, which is fleeing 
from her presence. The building on the 
left of this church is the Ecclesiastical 
Seminary. You may also visit the Church 
of San Giorgio Maggiore, on the small g. Giorgio Maggiore. 
island of St. George, at the east end of 
the Gludecca. Besides good paintings, 
it contains, back of the altar, a represen- 
tation of our Saviour on a large brass 
globe, brightly polished, borne by the 
four evangelists. The wood carving in 
the choir, representing scenes in the life 
of St Benedict, is remarkably fine. 



184 



OUTLINE TOUR VENICE. 



Arsenal. 



Public Garden. 



Dei Gree-i. 



June 4, Sat. — Visit the Darsena, or 
arsenal, and navy-yard, having previous- 
ly obtained a permit. It is near the east 
end of the city, and to reach it you pass 
along the Riva degli Schiavoni, which is 
the northern shore of the Canal of St. 
Mark. Observe, at the entrance gate, 
four marble lions, brought from the Pel- 
oponnesus, by Morosini, in 1C85. Ob- 
serve, in the lower room of the arsenal, 
the armor of the Doge Ziani ? 700 years 
old : and, in the upper room, his shield f 
and the effigy of Gattamelata, as also the 
key-shaped spring pistol of Francesco 
di Carrara, tyrant of Padua, and the in- 
struments of torture of Eecelino da Ro- 
mano, who was noted for his jealousy. 
In the navy-yard, observe the model of 
the Bucentaur, the galley in which the 
Doge was wont to wed the Adriatic Sea, 
Here is also a building 1,000 feet long,, 
for a rope-walk. On leaving the Dar- 
sena, you may proceed eastward, visiting 
the Public Garden, which was laid out 
by Napoleon, and then sail out to the 
Lido, which is the entrance to the har- 
bor, — so called from the Latin litus, a 
shore, — and see the building where Lord 
Byron kept his horses, this being his 
favorite resort. You may also visit the 
Armenian College of San Lazaro, on the 
island of this name, where Lord Byron 
studied Armenian, and many books are 
printed in this language. 

Returning, you may visit the Church 
of San Giorgio Cavaliere, otherwise 
called dei Greet, midway between the 
Arsenal and St. Mark's, where the ar- 
rangements are made, and the services 
performed according to the rites of the 
Greek church. Thence proceed north- 
westward, to the Church of Santa Maria 



OUTLINE TOUR VENICE. 185 

Formosa, from which the Brides of Venice 
were once carried away by the Istrian 
Pirates ; and observe there the St. Bar- 
bara, by Palmavecchio. Thence proceed 
northward to the Church of San Giovan- Church f st. John 
ni e San Paolo, or St. John and St. Paul, and St. Paul, 
in front of which is a bronze equestrian 
statue of Colleoni da Bergamo, the second 
ever cast in Italy, one at Padua having 
been the first. This Church is very rich 
in painting, and contains the picture, by 
Titian, of the Assassination of St. Peter 
Martyr, a Dominican inquisitor and friar 
of the thirteenth century ; which is 
ranked by some as the third best painting 
in the world. Here also are numerous 
monuments of Doges and other great men 
of Venice. Adjoining this church, on 
the north, is the Scuola di San Marco, a 
benevolent establishment in connection 
Avith the church. Proceed thence north- 
ward, passing, on the right, the Insane 
Asylum for females, to the northern bor- 
der of the city, and you will have a fine 
view of the snow-clad Tyrolian Alps. 
Then turn westward, and visit the Church 
of Santa Maria Assunta, or Chiesa de Church of the Jesuits. 
Gesuiti, which is one of the richest in 
the city, and contains the tomb of Ludo- 
vico Manini, the last Doge of Venice. 
Returning, you may stop at the Church 
of Santo Salcatore, south of the Eialto 
Bridge, which contains the tomb of Ca- 
tharine of Cornaro, once the queen of 
Cyprus. 

June 5, Sunday. — You will probably 
find no English service in Venice; bur 
may be interested in attending at St. 
Mark's or other Papal churches. It may 
be proper to visit the Church of La Ma- La Madonna del (>rto. 
donna del Orto, in the extreme northern 
part of the city, to see the painting of 
()* 



186 



OU'lLINE TOUR VENICE. 



the Last Judgment, by Tintoretto, or this 
may be deferred until the morrow. 

June 6, M. — Proceed by way of the 
Grand Canal, for the sake of a second 

Dei Scalzi. view, and visit the Ghiesa dei Scalzi or 

Church of the Barefooted, which was 
built by seven noble families, each hav- 
ing a chapel there, as a place of inter- 
ment. This Church, one of the richest 
in Venice, is pierced by cannon balls, 
which were fired during the recent revo- 
lution, begun in March, 1848, and sup- 
pressed in March, 1849. Then visit the 

Manfrini Palace. Manfrini Palace, on the Canareggio, 
which is open to the public on Mondays 
and Thursdays, and contains the best 
private collection of pictures in Venice ; 
among them the portrait of Ariosto by 
Titian, so highly praised by Lord Byron, 
and the St. Cecilia playing the organ, by 
Carlo Dolce. Returning, visit the Church 
of San Jacopo di Realto, commonly call- 

S. Giacometto. ed San Giacometto, west of the Rialto 

Bridge. This is the oldest church in 
Venice; and was rebuilt in its present 
form in 1194. Near it was the ancient 
Exchange, in the days of Shylock, re- 
ferred to in Shakspeare's Merchant of 
Venice. 

Return to Padua. Leave Venice and return to Padua, 

in an afternoon train. You will proba- 
bly be in time to visit the Arena, so call- 
ed, which is in the eastern part of the 
city, surrounded by a high wall, and is 
supposed to have been an ancient Roman 
amphitheatre. A chapel opens into it, 
built by the Scrovigni, and called Santa 
Maria delV Annunciata, or dell' Arena : 
but as it was designed and adorned by 
Giotto, it is popularly known as Giotto's 
Chapel. It contains numerous frescoes 
by Giotto, in the earliest and crudest 



OUTLINE TOUR rADUA. 18*7 



stj-le of Italian painting; and among Padua. 
them a picture of the Last Judgment, 
which may have suggested thissubjeetto 
Michael Angelo. Near this is the Chicsa 
del Eremitani, or Church, of the Hermits, 
having the ceiling recently painted blue, 
and spangled with gilt stars. It con- 
tains a picture of John Baptist in the 
Wildernsss by Guido Rem. There may- 
be time also to visit the Church of Santf s. Antonio. 
Antonio, or St. Anthony; which is very 
large, and crowned by eight domes, hav- 
ing quite an oriental appearance. St. 
Anthony was the patron saint of Padua ; 
and here, in his chapel, in the north 
transept, are his tomb and his shrine, to 
which pilgrimages were formerly made, 
and perhaps they are still. In the rear 
aisle of this church is a sculptured bronze 
candelabrum, said to be the largest 
known. Attached to this edifice is a 
Scuola with five cloisters or cloistered 
courts ; and in front is a bronze eques- 
trian statue of Gattamelata, by Dona- 
tello, the first ever cast in Italy. Near 
this, in the southwest part of the city, is 
the Botanic Garden, the oldest of the 
kind; and west of this is the Prato della 
Valle, which is worth revisiting. 

June 7, Tu. — Visit the University, in Tj n i ve rsity. 
the centre of the city, occupying the Pa- 
lazzo il Bo, or Ox Palace, said to have 
been so named from the painting of an 
ox on a sign near by. The cloistered 
court is lined with sculptured mementos 
of its graduates, and contains the statue 
of Helena Lucretia Cornelia, the only 
lady who ever studied here and received 
a degree. This is the oldest university 
in Italy except that at Bologna ; and it 
has the oldest Anatomical Theatre in the 
world, built by Aquapendente in 1594; 



188 



OUTLINE TOUR PADUiS. 



Palace of Justice. 



Kail road to Verona, 



this having been the cradle of medical 
science. In the days of Dante it had 
15,000 students, and 3000 it numbers still. 
Visit next the Palazzo delta Pagione, or 
Palace of Reason, so called because it 
was once the City Hall, where debates 
were held and reasons assigned for public 
measures. It is now called the Palace 
of Justice; and stands between the 
Market of Fruits and that of Herbs, 
north of the University. It is a vast 
hall, 240 feet long and 80 wide, covered 
by a lofty, convex, four-sided roof, which 
is perhaps still the largest in the world 
unsupported by pillars within. Observe 
the Egyptian statues at the entrance, 
brought home by Belzoni ; the frescoes 
on the walls, by Giotto and the astrolo- 
ger Pietro d'Abano; the antique bust of 
Livy, who is claimed as a Paduan ; and 
the wooden horse by Donatello, remind- 
ing one of the Trojan horse of old. From 
a rear window you may see the Clock 
Tower, on the Piazza dei Signori, con- 
taining the most ancient clock in Italy, 
made in 1344 for the Duke of Carrara, 
by Anthony of Padua, but it was the 
invention of Giacomo Dondi. The old 
tower, once a part of the Castle of Ecce- 
lin da Romano, is now the Observatory ; 
and between this and the Cathedral is 
the Palazzo Papafaza, containing a cu- 
rious piece of sculpture, about five feet 
high, representing a group of sixty of 
the fallen angels, Lucifer and his crew. 
Then proceed by railroad to Verona ; 
the distance being about 46 miles. Ob- 
serve on the left a range of hills, called 
Monte Berici, reaching nearly from Pa- 
dua to Verona; and another range on 
the north, so that the railroad traverses 
the vallev between them. Passing the 



OUTLINE TOUK VERONA. 180 

village of Pajana, tho first place of note 
on the way is Vieenm, 17 miles from yicenza 
Padua ; a dome and spire, and tower of 
which are visible above the trees, on the 
right of the station ; while opposite to it, 
on the left of the road, is a lofty hill, 
strewn with country-seats, and having 
an old church, conspicuous as you ap- 
proach it. At Tavcrnelle, observe a high 
rock and a church on a hill toward the 
south ; and on the north a castle on a 
hill, with another behind it, which be- 
comes visible as you advance. At Mon- 
tebello observe a hill on the north, 
crowned by a villa and a ruin, probably 
giving name to the place whence the 
title of Duke of Montebello was be- 
stowed on Marshal Lannes for his bra- 
very here; and at San Bonifacio, about 
32 miles from Padua, you are not far 
north of Areola, yvhere Bonaparte gained Areola 
a victory at the imminent hazard of his 
life and his forces. A little beyond this, 
on the right, observe a tower on a hill, 
with a village beyond it; and another 
hill, crowned by a church, before reach- 
ing Caldiero. The last station is San 
Martino ; and you may observe, on the 
right, the round Church of La Madonna 
della Oampagna, crowned by a dome, 
just before reaching the depot at Verona, y ERO na. 
which is outside of the city walls. You 
may stop at the Hotel of the Two Tow- 
ers {Due Torri), or that of the Tower of 
London, Torre di Londra, in the north- 
eastern part of the city. 

You will probably have time, still, to 
see the principal curiosities of Verona. 
Visit first the tombs of the Scaligeri, Tombs of the Scali- 
once the Lords of Verona, in a small sers. 

yard, close to their ancient residence, 
and fronting a little chapel called Santa 



190 



OUTLINE TOUR VERONA, 



Maria VAntica. Near this is the Piazza 
dei Signori, where Mastino I. was assas- 
sinated ; and here are the Palazzo del 
Consiglio, and a column once crowned 
by the winged lion of Venice, to which 
Padua was subject until the French in- 
vasion. Beyond this is the Piazza delle 
Erbe, or vegetable market ; on the north 
of which is the Palazzo Maffei, and on the 
left of this is the old Guard Tower, with 
its forked or deep-cloven battlements, 
here first seen. Visit next the Casa de 1 

House of the Capnlets Cappelletti, or house of the Capulets, so 
intimately associated with the tragedy 
of Borneo and Juliet. Visit next the 

Amphitheatre. Arena, or Amphitheatre, the interior of 

which is almost perfectly preserved. It 
stands near the Piazza di Bra, on which 
front the Guard-house and the old Pa- 
lazzo Publico, still used as a palace. At 
the Arena, you may buy of the keeper, 
specimens, either natural or artificial, of 
the petrified fish of Mont Bolca, north of 
Verona. Then passing the Porta Bello- 
na, and a castle near it, now used as 
barracks, visit the Tomb of Juliet, in the 
southeastern part of the city. It is in a 
garden, which was once a cemetery, in 
the rear of an old Franciscan Church. 
The place where it stands is proved to 
have been once a chapel, by the fresco 
of the Crucifixion on its wall. You may 
next visit the Church of San Zenone, 
in the southwest part of the city, and the 
oldest one in Verona, unless you are to 
pass it by diligence or vettura on depart- 
ing. It is in the Lombard style, with a 
large rose or wheel-of-fortune window, 
sculptured with a king at the top of the 
wheel, and a prostrate wretch below. 
Then, returning by the Castel Vecchio, 
and the bridge contiguous to it over the 



Tombof.Tulittt. 



S. Zenone. 



OUTLINE TOUR BRESCIA. 191 

Adige, you may stop at the Palazzo Ca- 
nossa, where kings have feasted ; and 
from its court you will have a good view 
of the bastions of St. George and Santa 
Felice on the north of the city. Then, 
passing the Porta oV Borsari, an ancient 
Roman gateway, you may visit the Ca- 
thedral, which is not very remarkable ; 
or if there be time, you may visit the 
Museo Lapidario. 

June 8, W. — Leave Verona for Bres- Verona to Brescia, 
cia; by railroad if it be completed; 
otherwise by diligence or vettura; the 
distance being about 42 miles. Going 
by vettura, you will soon pass the heights 
of Samo or Zano on the left, where a 
battle was fought during the late Revo- 
lution. Next you pass the strongly for- 
tified town of Peschiera, at the foot of Peschiera. 
Lake Garda, where the river Mincio 
flows out, and fills the ditches of the for- 
tress on its way. This is about 15 miles 
from Verona. At the village of Desen- 
zano next, you have a fine view of the 
Lake ; and then you ascend gradually to 
the lofty town of Lonato, 27 miles from 
Verona, standing so high that the road 
passes around its frowning walls. You 
next cross the little river Chiese at Sam 
Marco, and then come to Rezzato, with 
the Palazzo Finarolia and its terraced 
garden on the right. The last village is 
Santa Eufemia ; and the hills on the 
right are strewn with country seats, 
before you enter the walls of Brescia, Bbkscia - 
where you may lodge at the Hotel Royal, 
in the Contrada Larga, or at le Due 
Torri, the Hotel of the Two Towers. 

June 9, Thursday. — Visit first the 
Piazza Vecchia, or old square in Bresica, 
on which stands the Hotel de Ville or 
city ha 1 !, built in the style of Palladio. 



192 



OUTLINE TOUR — BRESCIA, 



< nthe<lral. 



Museum. 



Brescia to Milan. 



Opposite to this is the tower of the city 
clock, with a dial not only divided into 
24 hours, but the numbering commences 
on the right and not at the highest point. 
It has also two bronze men or Moors, to 
strike the hours, as at Venice. Then, 
passing the Broletto, the old cattle and 
palace of the republic, with its cloven 
battlemented tower, visit the Cathe- 
drals ; the new one, having the third 
largest dome in Italy, and containing 
a line recent picture of Christ Healing 
the Sick, by Mazzoni; and the old 
cathedral near it, the front part of 
which is said to have been an ancient 
temple of Diana, with a dome panelled 
internally like that of the Pantheon at 
Rome. Visit next the Museum, formed 
out of the ancient temple of Hercules, 
partly in ruins; and observe there a 
very ancient Grecian bronze statue of 
Victory, one of the most perfect of its 
kind. Then visit the Galeria Tosi, an 
admirable collection of paintings; and 
observe the Ducal Palace at Venice in 
a snow storm, by Borsato ; and Christ 
showing his wounds to Thomas, by Ra- 
phael. The Campo di Marte is out of 
the city, westward ; and still beyond 
this is the Campo Santo, or cemetery, 
with its beautiful avenues and chapel. 
You will pass these on the left, if you 
leave the city by vettura; but if the 
railroad be completed from Brescia to 
Treviglio, as it has been for some time 
from Treviglio to Milan, this will be the 
preferable conveyance. 

Leave Brescia for Milan ; the distance 
being about 55 miles. Passing Ospe- 
dalletto, if you go by vettura, and Coc- 
caglio, a village south of Monte Orfano, 
you then turn more southward, and will 



OUTLINE TOUR MILAN. 193 

cross the intended railroad at Chiari, 
about 15 miles from Brescia. After 
this you will cross the river Oglio, pass 
the village of Antignati, and the little 
river Serio, before reaching Treviglio, 
about 35 miles from Brescia. The re- 
maining distance to Milan, will of course 
be performed by railway; the country 
being level, and nothing remarkable in- 
tervening. The depot at Milan, as usual 
in Italian cities, is outside the gates; 
and you will find excellent accommoda- 
tions at the Hotel tie la Ville tie Milan, MILAN, 
opposite to the church of St. Charles; 
or at the Royal Hotel in the Con trad a 
dei Tre Re. The Gratt Bvetagna is also 
spoken of as a good hotel, and moderate 
in its charges. 

June 10, Friday. — Visit the Duomo Cathedral 
or Cathedral of Milan. It is doubtless 
the most remarkable one in the world, 
in Gothic style, having cost more than 
$100,000,000; and although begun in 
the year 1386, it is not yet finished. 
The Emperor Napoleon expended large 
sums upon it ; and his statue may be 
seen among those of sainls and angels, 
on a pinacle above the roof. The 
total length of the cathedral is 485 
feet; its greatest breadth, 287; and the 
top of the flcche or spire is 355 feet 
high. In the right or south transept, 
observe the monument of Giovani de' 
Medici, sometimes called II Medechino, 
to distinguish him from the Medici of 
Florence, — an entirely different family. 
In the sacristy are two full length silver 
statues ; one of St. Ambrose, the ancient 
bishop here; the other of San Carlo or 
St. Charles Borromeo, an archbishop of 
Milan, who was almost worshipped be- 
fore his death, which took place in 1584. 



194 



OUTLINE TOUR MILAN. 



S. Bernadino del 
Monte. 



Hospital. 



This cathedral has 146 pinnacles, each 
adorned with 25 statues and statuettes. 
The total number of these figures is said 
to be 6,016, chiefly on the exterior; and 
there are 286 water -spouts projecting 
from the walls, in various sculptured 
forms. The view from the summit k 
surpassingly grand, of the cathedral it- 
self, the city, and the distant Alps. A 
subterranean passage, it is said, leads 
to the Archbishop's Palace, not far dis- 
tant, on the southeast; and there is a 
Royal Palace near the cathedral, front- 
ing it on the south, where once stood 
the Palace of the Visconti. The steeple 
adjoining it is that of the Church of St. 
Gothard, now the palace chapel. 

Taking a carriage and guide, proceed 
from the cathedral southeastward, to 
the Piazza Fontana, containing the 
only public fountain in the city, and 
observe the Archbishop's Palace on the 
right or west side. Continue on to the 
Corso dl Porta Tosa, and observe the 
column there supporting a statue of our 
Saviour. Then turning southwestw T ard, 
visit the small Church of San Bernadino 
del Monte, and the little chapel attached 
to it on the right, consecrated to the Ma- 
donna de'Morti, and lined on three sides 
with human bones, said to be those of 
martyrs anciently slain by the Arians. 
Opposite to this ie the church of San 
Stefano, fronting on the Vezzaro, or 
market for vegetables and fish. Thence 
turn southwestward, and visit the Os- 
psdale Maggiore, or Great hospital, in- 
closing nine courts, and containing 3,000 
patients. Beyond this you reach the 
-» Church of San Nazzaro, the vestibule of 
which is the chapel of the family of Tri- 
vulzii, containing their effigies, and 



OUTLINE TOUR MILAN. 195 

worthy of a visit. Continuing south- 
westward, you come next to the Church 
of Sanf Eufemia, containing a picture 
of this saint's martyrdom, said to be by 
Titian. Fronting on the same piazza is 
the Church of St. John and St. Paul, of 
minor note. Then turn southward and 
visit the Church of Santa Maria dl Celso S. Maria di Celso. 
(or presso San Celso), which is entered 
through a cloister, and has statues of 
Adam and Eve in niches on either side 
of the door, and. a row of statues around 
the drum supporting the dome. Pro- 
ceeding southward and then westward, 
visit the Porta Ticinese, adorned with 
an Ionic portico. Then visit the Church 
otSanVEustorgio, near by, which contains 
the tombs of the three wise men or Magi ; 
whose remains are said to have been 
given by Constantine to St. Eustorgius, 
and buried here ; but Frederick Barba- 
rossa, gave them to the Arshbishop of 
Cologne. Proceeding northward, visit 
the old Church of San Lorenzo, the 16 S. Lorenzo, 
columns in front of which are the chief 
Roman remains in Milan. Here is the 
tomb of Adolphus, king of the Goths, 
successor of Alaric ; and his wife Placi- 
dia, who was a sister of the emperor 
Honorius. Returning by the Carobbio, * 
and the circular Church of St. Sebastian, S. Sebastian, 
you will have seen the principal objects 
of interest in the southern part of the 
city. 

June 11, Saturday. — Visit first the 
Brera, or Palace of Sciences and Arts, Br « r a- 
proceeding by way of the Piazza and 
Palazzo Belgiojoso. The Brera was 
once the College of Santa Maria in 
Brera, or St. Maria in the Fields, be- 
longing to the Jesuits. Observe in the 
court, the statues of Cagniola the archi- 



196 



OUTLINE TOUR MILAN. 



8. Simpliciano. 



Arch of Peace. 



La Scala. 



tect; Oavalieri, the geographer; Verri, 
the historian ; Parini, the poet ; Becca- 
ria, the jurist; and other distinguished 
men. The paintings occupy 12 rooms ; 
and among them are the Adoration of 
the Magi, by Titian ; the Marriage of 
the Virgin by Raphael ; a Madonna and 
Child, and St. Peter and St. Paul by 
Guido Reni; and other valuable pic- 
tures. There is also a gallery of statues ; 
a Museo Lapodario ; a library ; and an 
observatory, founded by Boscovich, in 
1762. 

Visit next the Church of San Simpli- 
ciano, northwest of the Brera, in Gothic 
style, and containing pictures of Moses 
and Aaron. Thence visit the Arena, 
constructed by Napoleon, in 1805-6. 
It is an elliptical inclosure, 780 feet long, 
and 390 wide, with space for 3,000 per- 
sons to see races and regattas in the 
central area, which may be made dry, 
or flooded, at pleasure. Thence turn 
westward, across the Piazza d'Armi, 
protected by the Caserma, serving as a 
castle and barracks, to see the Arco della 
Pace, or Arch of Peace, begun by Na- 
poleon, but finished by the Austrian s, 
and crowned by a statue of Peace. Re- 
turning, you may pass the celebrated 
theatre of La Scala. capable of seating 
4000 persons; and visit the Church of 
San Fedele, adorned with bas-reliefs ; 
observing also the massive Palazzo Ma- 
rini, near by, devoted to public offices. 
It may be advisable, after dinner, to 
visit the Giardini Publici, or Public 
Gardens, in the northeast part of the 
city, beyond which is the Lazzaretto ; 
the Corso di Porta Orientale leading to 
them both. 

June 1 2 , Sunday. — There will proba- 



OUTLINE TOUR — MILAN. 107 

bly be no English service held in Milan; 
but the services at the Cathedral, and at 
the Church of San Carlo, will sufficiently B. Carlo, 
occupy the day. The latter church is 
a new building, in honor of St. Charles 
Borromeo, and standing opposite to the 
Hotel de la Ville, in the Corso Fran- 
cesco. It is circular in form, and sur- 
mounted by a dome, with colonnaded 
walks on either side extending forward 
to the street. Observe in it the beauti- 
ful sculptured group of St. Charles ad- 
ministering the eucharist. It may be 
interesting to visit the Foppone or 
Campo Santo of San Michele, a ceme- Campo Santo, 
tery in the southeastern part of the city. 
There are more than 200 churches and 
chapels in Milan; but those named in 
this outline are believed to possess the 
most artistic and historic interest. 

June 13, Monday. — Take a carriage, 
and proceed westward, by Duomo or 
Cathedral, to the Piazza dei Mercanti, Piazza dei Mercantt. 
called also the Piazza de' Tribunals In 
the centre of this stands a singular 
building, on arches, once the Palazzo 
delta Regione, or town hall, then the 
Palazzo de'Tribunali, for courts of jus- 
tice ; then the Palazzo dei Mercanti, or 
Merchants' Exchange ; but now < the 
Archivio Publico, or public archives, 
while the open space beneath serves as 
a market. Observe, on the right archi- 
volt of the second arch on the north 
side of it, the figure in relief of a sow 
half covered with wool. This refers to 
the tradition that such an animal guided 
Belovesus the Gaul to found a city here ; 
and hence the original Latin name of 
Milan, Mediolanum, from medius, middle, 
and lana, wool. Milan once set the 



198 



OUTLINE TOUR — MILAN. 



fashions for Europe ; and hence the 
origin of our word milliner. 

Then, turn southwestward, and visit 

A mbrosian Library, the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, or Ambro- 
sian Library. It was founded by Cardi- 
nal Federigo Borromeo, a cousin of San 
Carlo ; and contains 130,000 printed 
volumes, besides 5,500 volumes of manu- 
scripts, and valuable pictures, statues, 
and other curiosities. Observe &palim<- 
sest, or parchment twice written over; 
originally with the oration of Cicero for 
Scaurus, and over this with the Carmina 
of Sedulius. Observe, also, a Holy 
Family by Carlo Dolce ; a Crucifixion 
by Guido Reni, the triplicate of those 
in the Vatican and at Bologna ; and an 
excellent copy of the Last Supper, of 
Leonardo da Vinci, made by Paoli Bian- 
chi, 260 years ago. 
Thence, proceeding westward, visit 

S. Atnbrogio. the Church of Santf Ambrogio, founded 

by St. Ambrose the early Bishop of 
Milan, on the site of a temple of Bac- 
chus, or of Minerva. Some writers 
maintain that this is the very church 
from which Ambrose repelled the Em- 
peror Theodosius, for a slaughter which 
he had committed; (Coghlan ;) while 
Murray assigns this honor to the church 
of San Vittore al Corpo. The tomb of 
St. Ambrose is said to be under the 
altar of the church which bears his 
name. Thence proceed westward to 

S. Vittore. the Church of San Vittore al Corpo, the 

former cloisters of which are used as 
barracks, and the dome of which is 
adorned internally with pictures ot 
eight Sibyls, — the Cumaean, Samian, 
Cumanian, Hellespontic, Libyan, Per- 
sian, Delphian, and Erythrean. Next 
proceed northward to the suppressed 



OUTLINE TOUR — COMO. 109 

convent of the Church of Sunt J/a- s. Maria deiia Grow, 
ria della Grazie 1 to see the remains 
of the celebrated picture of the Last The Last Supper. 
Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci. It is 
painted on the wall of the refectory; the 
entrance being through a cloister, once 
the seat of the Inquisition in Milan. 
The picture is greatly defaced, and must 
perish ; but its memory will be pre- 
served by means of numerous copies and 
engravings. 

P. M. — Leave Milan for Como, by Milan to Coma 
railroad; the distance being 28 miles. 
The stations on the way are Sesto, Mon- 
za, Seregno, Camnago, and Camerlata. 
The city of Monza, a little way off the 
railroad, is noted for its cathedral, con- 
taining the celebrated Iron Crown, the iron Crown, 
circlet of which is said to have been 
hammered out of one of the nails of our 
Saviour's cross ! It was worn by Henry 
VII. of Germany in 1311; and by Na- 
poleon the Great ; as also by the recent 
emperors of Austria at their coronation. 
The last part of the way is among hills, 
finely cultivated and terraced ; and the 
railroad terminates at Camerlata; but 
tickets are given, at Milan, for the omni- 
buses thence, a mile or more, to Como, 
where the best inn is the Albergo de 
V Angelo. Como was called Comum by Como. 
the Romans, and was the birth-place of 
the younger Pliny. It contains a fine 
cathedral, with an arcade on the left, 
between it and the clock-tower. It con- 
tains also in the public square a statue 
of Volta, who was born here ; but no- 
thing else of special note. 

In order to reach Lake Maggiore by 
way of Lake Lugano, which is a very 
romantic route, it will be necessary to 
forward your heavy baggage by dili- 



200 OUTLINE TOUR COMO» 

Oomo, continued. gence from Como to Laveno. If this 
cannot be done, it will be advisable, 
after seeing the Lake of Como, to re- 
turn to Como*, and proceed personally, 
with your luggage, to Laveno, on Lake 
•e. 



Jfote.—The SECOND PART of this Hand-Book, 
which will be published shortly, will include an outline 
Tour in Switzerland, Germany, Holland, Belgium, Eng- 
land, Scotland, and Ireland. To see the most interesting 
objects in these countries, devoting as much time, in pro- 
portion, as we have taken thus far, will require about three 
and a half months,— say to the 1st of October. Thus S 

June 15 to July 9 (24 days), in SWITZERLAND, visiting 
Mt. St. Bernard, Geneva, Chamouni, Lausanne, Berne, 
Interlachen and the Oberland Alps, Lungern, Luzerne, 
the Rhigi, Zurich, Schaff hausen and Basle. 

July 10 to July 21 (11 days), in GERMANY, via Basle 
to Arnheim, visiting Kebl, Strasbourg, Baden-Baden, 
Frankfort, Heidelberg, Wiesbaden, Mayence, down the 
Rhine to Bonn, Coblentz, Cologne, and Dusseldorf. 

July 21 to 27, in HOLLAND, via Arnheim to A raster* 
dam, Haarlem, the Hague, and Rotterdam* 

July 28 to Aug. 2 in BELGIUM, visiting Antwerp, Brus- 
sels, Waterloo, Ghent, Bruges, Ostend, by steamer to 
Dover, thence to London via Canterbury. 

Aug. 3 to Aug. 15 (12 days). LONDON andits environs, 
including Zoological Gardens, Coliseum, Tower, Tun- 
nel, Bank of England, &c, &c. Excursions to Hamp- 
ton Court and Kew, Windsor, Cambridge. 

Aug. 16 to Sept. 3 (17 days), ENGLAND : Excursions to 
Brighton, Portsmouth, Isle of Wight, Southampton 



OUTLINE TOUR. 201 

and Salisbury ; to Oxford, Blenheim, Stratford, War- 
wick, Kenilworth, Birmingham, Derby, Chatsworth 
and its vicinity, Sheffield, York and Newcastle. 

Sept. 4 to Sept. 16 (12 days), in SCOTLAND, visiting 
Kelso, Melrose, Abbotsford, Edinburgh, Stirling, Loch 
Katrine, Loch Lomond, Loch Awe, Staffa, Iona, Glas- 
gow, Ayr, &c. 

Sept, 17 to 23 (6 days), in IRELAND, visiting Giants' 
Causeway, Londonderry, Belfast, and Dublin. [For 
Killarney, &c, a week more would be wanted.] 

Sept. 24 to Oct. 1, Dublin, Holyhead, Liverpool, Manches- 
ter, Preston, Keswick and the Lakes of Cumberland, 
and return to Liverpool. 



10 



202 



HEIGNIXG SOVEREIGNS OF EUROPE. 






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KETGN'IXO SOVEUEIEXS OF EUROPE. 



203 



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STATES OV EUKOPK. 






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b VAXES OF EUUOPE. 



205 



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200 



TABLE OF COINS, 



TABLE OF COINS 

WITH THEIE VALUE IN AMERICAN CURRENCY. 



ENGLAND. 

GOLD. 

$ cts. 

Sovereign 4 83 

Half" 2 41 

SILVER. 

Crown 1 15 

Half", 56 

Shilling............. 23 

Sixpence 11 

Fourpence 7 

FRANCE. 

GOLD. 

Louis (Tor 4 50 

Piece of 40 Francs 7 66 

" 20 " 3 83 

« 10 " 1 90 

6 " 1 12 

SILVER. 

Piece of 5 Francs 93 

2 " 36 

" 1 " 18 

" i " 8 

" £ " 4 

" 30 Sols 25 

" 20 " 16 

" 15 " 12 

" 50 Centimes 8 

" 25 " 4 

TUSCANY. 

GOLD. 

Ruspone 7 32 

Zecclnno (Sequin) 2 40 



SILVER. 

$ cts. 
Francesconi or Scutli, 10 

Pauls 1 OS 

Mezzo Seudo 54 

Lira 18 

Paul or Paolo, S Crazie .... 10 

NAPLES. 

Onza, 30 Carlines, 2 52 

Piastre, 12 « 1 04 

Carlin, 10 Grains 8 



LOMBARDY & VENICE. 

French money is current. 
The Italian Lire is the 
same as the Franc. 



PIEDMONT. 

The actual coinage is the 
same as the French. 

GENOA. 

The Doppia of gold is worth 

79 Francs 14 69 

TheRuspone of gold is worth 

60 Pauls 6 09 

The Sequin of Florence is 

worth 20 Pauls 2 03 

The Sequin of Rome is worth 
19' Pauls 1 98 

The Francesconi is worth 10 

Pauls 1 01 

The Crown of St. John Bap- 
tist is worth 5 Livres. . . 93 



TABLE OF COINS OF THE PAl'AL STATES. 207 

PAPAL STATES. 

The accounts are commonly kept in Scudi, Pauls, and Bajoccbi. 
1 Scudo = 10 Pauls = 100 Bajocchi. 

GOLD. 

Doppia Nuova of Pius VII. (Pistole), =-■ . .32 Pauls, 1 Baj. $3 29 

Zecchino (Sequin), => 20 " 5 " 2 05 

rieceof5Scudi, = 50 " 5 13 

" 2* " = 25 " 2 50 

S I L V E E . 

Scudo (Roman Dollar, 1835),= . . . . 10 " 103 

Mezzo Scudo, = 5 '• 51 

Testone, = 3 " 31 

Papetto, = 2 " 21 

Paulo (Paul), = 10 " 10 

Grosso (half Paul), =- ..;... '5" 5 



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